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TRS boost power valve

agreed, I have had good luck with partzilla and fixmytoys.
I also get good prices at my local Polaris dealer, so I try to throw money their way if I don't need it right away.
That’s what I do; get part # online from schematics, then order from dealer. Stuff is list price and usually free 1/2 shipping (comes with normal order).
 
Yah I always prefer buying from the dealer but they're 140mi round trip so I don't always have the time to run down and back.
 
You can do both if you like. The y pipe is a necessity.
So, would you recommend three additional springs to double up on each of the stock points holding Y pipe to exhaust?
 
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agreed, I have had good luck with partzilla and fixmytoys.
I also get good prices at my local Polaris dealer, so I try to throw money their way if I don't need it right away.
Seems like Partzilla has stopped discounting Polaris parts this year. Everything is msrp now. Used to be msrp until you logged in and went to you chart, then the discount came. Unless someone knows some trick that I don’t.
 
Yes sir.
The turbo side of the pipe has 4 springs, we haven’t seen an issue there.

Easiest way to do this on the Y? Pull each off and slide to side prior to adding or just toss another on and they adjust? Seemed fairly difficult but i’m an idiot with this ****.
 
Boost has a direct affect on the seal.
The faster you come up on boost the more affect it has.
In reality you should use high temp silicone on the graphoil donut and y pipe. Then double them up.
Boost has a tendency to push on the pipe separating the y pipe seal.
Have a look at the same recommendation from Boondocker or other turbo companies.
 
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I’m not sure if it’s the power valve, Ibexx lvl 1 tune or what but my new 165 3.25 is a beast. I’m only 100 miles in on it and it rips hard. Will easily pull a wheelie on a bit of slope. I was getting medium det codes running 94 oct so I’ve started mixing 25% 100LL.

I got a fts spring from Tony as I read on hear that the boost long track isn’t very playfu, imo that’s totally false.
 
Boost has a direct affect on the seal.
The faster you come up on boost the more affect it has.
In reality you should use high temp silicone on the graphoil donut and y pipe. Then double them up.
Boost has a tendency to push on the pipe separating the y pipe seal.
Have a look at the same recommendation from Boondocker or other turbo companies.
Got my valve installed today.
I had bought some springs and was going to put them on, but wow is that in the most terrible place to work, lol.
Have a pretty small spring puller, but snaking it in to be able to put springs on wasn't working.
Any tips or tool recommendations to make that job easier?


1733624776776.png
 
Got my valve installed today.
I had bought some springs and was going to put them on, but wow is that in the most terrible place to work, lol.
Have a pretty small spring puller, but snaking it in to be able to put springs on wasn't working.
Any tips or tool recommendations to make that job easier?


View attachment 427184
I’ve used paracord with good luck on the stubborn springs.
 
gave up on the springs personally. Even the “easy” one is a bitch. can’t imagine the one under the Y.
 
Woody's 15" spring puller. Best tool you can get for exhaust springs in snowmobiles.

Yes, the bottom one is a little bit annoying.
I have a long puller that looks like that woodys one, also have a smaller curved one that is supposed to be good for getting at hard to get to springs.
The long one had no chance for me with the space between the pipe and bulkhead.

I will try it again, I just had to stop after getting frustrated, lol.

That and I was already upset about this Speedwerx intake I had installed that looks to have been welded a bit off and wouldnt fit.
 
I have a long puller that looks like that woodys one, also have a smaller curved one that is supposed to be good for getting at hard to get to springs.
The long one had no chance for me with the space between the pipe and bulkhead.

I will try it again, I just had to stop after getting frustrated, lol.

That and I was already upset about this Speedwerx intake I had installed that looks to have been welded a bit off and wouldnt fit.
I was using the bulkhead as a lever point, bending it!

Bummer about the intake issue. I'm betting speedwerx will make it right.
 
I was using the bulkhead as a lever point, bending it!

Bummer about the intake issue. I'm betting speedwerx will make it right.
Sounds like I just need to get more aggressive with it, lol.

Ya, I have an email out to them, I am sure they will get it worked out. Thankfully I still have a bit before my riding season starts.
(update) Speedwerx already emailed back and are sending out a replacement part
(update2) Speedwerx got a replacement intake to me today that is made correctly.
 
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