The Get your FIX for the RMK 800

[thefullmonte]

Tari, I think you jacked my thread here and you should of started another thread but since your here now tell us more about these kits?

1. How long ago did you start developing this kit?

2. How long have you been testing this kit?

3. How many kits have you sold?

4. How many miles have been put on your kit to date?

5. Why did you use the stock style pistonsng over the wisecos?

6. How does your kit change the timing?

7. Any dyno results or tests?

8. How does your kit compare to the MTNTK kit? (Other then the Head)

9. What have you used for fuel mapping and tunning?

10. How much shipped to the US with the excise or export tax's?

I too would be interested in hearing what you have to say about these questions.

I can guess that you are changing the port timing with the piston. I am curious what OEM piston you are using. Are they out of the old big block?

 

[INDEEP]

Here's a couple pics of the PMS pistons. I didn't weigh them but they feel way lighter than the OEM's. My buddy has them installed and he didn't notice the 100 RPM increase PMS claims. Did anyone else gain some RPM's? It kind of worries me how thin the skirts are on the Weisco's but because their forged I guess they'll be adequate. I used my reloading caliper to measure them (not the most accurate way) and here's what I came up with:

OEM 2 ring pistons

top-3.310
bottom-3.335

PMS Pistons

top-3.320
bottom-3.342

 

[harrysmith500]

50 miles today on my Fix, ran great after the initial break in. Now the real test, ask me in 2 years how my sled is running!!

 

[diamonddave]

And Harry will be putting it through it's righteous test. Noticed mine started sounding a little rattle ee yesterday.

 

[milehighassassin]

Dave, care to give us more detail on this rattle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thefullmonte]

Had a couple of questions sent my way that I thought I should comment on.

There was question concerning the BMP pipe as to how it was making power. Joey had stated that he designed the pipe to utilize the overly rich condition of the stock mapping that occurs at higher RPM. So he chose to utilize the extra fuel rather than remove it with a PCV. Remember with all the reflashes that polaris has put out that this pipe is going to act a little differently with each of them. Which is why a Power Commander is still a good idea from both a performance standpoint and being able to correct the lean mid range. And again I want to stress that Joey did pull some very impressive gains through the midrange just by adjusting the PCV with the BMP pipe.

As you can see from the dyno, the pipe really liked the stronger motor of the PMS kit compared to how R44's motor was running last year.

If I remember right, the PCV was capable of some pretty impressive HP #'s on it's own. This was from leaning the higher rpms. Again this is depending on the sled. Kraven can you help me out here? Wasn't it close to 10HP from DTR?

Another item to note is that you don't see an air fuel ratio present on the dyno sheets. This is because there wasn't one used. Neither pipe had a bung for one and Joey proved to us that it really wasn't necessary. I know you can stick a sniffer up the pipe, but the reading acts too slow from my understanding.

 

[pthfndr]

"the fix"

there is a kit available that has cast pistons and the shim but also different heads for $875 from Terra Alps racing went and had a look at it , deffinately the way to go if your thinking about doing this and most would feel better not using the wisco pistons, so this is another choice

 

[R44guy]

there is a kit available that has cast pistons and the shim but also different heads for $875 from Terra Alps racing went and had a look at it , deffinately the way to go if your thinking about doing this and most would feel better not using the wisco pistons, so this is another choice

We would love to see some more info on this kit and to get some feed back from other users who have used this kit. I like the head option but with the product being from outside the US there are some other costs besides the shipping.

I also think the wiseco's are fine now but many years ago they had some problems but they still require a good warm up to help prevent a possible cold seize. So please tell us more about this product.

 

[Kraven]

Had a couple of questions sent my way that I thought I should comment on.

There was question concerning the BMP pipe as to how it was making power. Joey had stated that he designed the pipe to utilize the overly rich condition of the stock mapping that occurs at higher RPM. So he chose to utilize the extra fuel rather than remove it with a PCV. Remember with all the reflashes that polaris has put out that this pipe is going to act a little differently with each of them. Which is why a Power Commander is still a good idea from both a performance standpoint and being able to correct the lean mid range. And again I want to stress that Joey did pull some very impressive gains through the midrange just by adjusting the PCV with the BMP pipe.

As you can see from the dyno, the pipe really liked the stronger motor of the PMS kit compared to how R44's motor was running last year.

If I remember right, the PCV was capable of some pretty impressive HP #'s on it's own. This was from leaning the higher rpms. Again this is depending on the sled. Kraven can you help me out here? Wasn't it close to 10HP from DTR?

Another item to note is that you don't see an air fuel ratio present on the dyno sheets. This is because there wasn't one used. Neither pipe had a bung for one and Joey proved to us that it really wasn't necessary. I know you can stick a sniffer up the pipe, but the reading acts too slow from my understanding.

If I recall correctly, on DYNOTECH Jim's dyno, the PC-5 alone provided approx 7 h.p. gain by LEANING out the top end.

From R44 's first Dyno post/thread last year:

5. The 5th pull was stock tuning with stock can. The results increased and peaked at 139.7 hp at 8000 rpm

9. The 9th pull was no longer stock tuning but with the PCV power commander 5 with dynotech Jims fall map tuning with BMP can. The results increased and peaked at 147.5 hp at 7900 rpm

There's the 7.8 h.p. from the PC-5

 

[R44guy]

Kraven, Jim's Dyno results are pretty accurate but he use's another style dyno and all of the numbers are pretty simular to BMP's dyno.

As explained to by Joey from BMP there are cetain upgrades that work real well but sometimes when you combine the 2 they are not as effective and do not make as much power.

The biggest changes here are the fix it kit, and orignal head and map.

 

[timbo]

The biggest changes here are the fix it kit, and orignal head and map.

Have you had any drivability problems with the high comp head and flash or are you using the fuel controller for any issues? Rode mine for 65 miles yesterday local 2000ft and it has lots of bottom end,like I geared it down a couple of teeth.It hit limp mode once but I was running lots of pre-mix oil in it and my ethanol wires plugged in.Unplugged them and was good to go.This thing is nice and quiet now and very responsive.

 

[Kraven]

Kraven, Jim's Dyno results are pretty accurate but he use's another style dyno and all of the numbers are pretty simular to BMP's dyno.

As explained to by Joey from BMP there are cetain upgrades that work real well but sometimes when you combine the 2 they are not as effective and do not make as much power.

The biggest changes here are the fix it kit, and orignal head and map.

Thanks for that.

Was just trying to answer Monte's ?

And itemize gains from PC-5 only and Pipe only as there was no A/F info given this time and as dd pointed out earlier, PC-5 alone with stock pipe was not tested.

BTW, what is the compression on the gauge with your current set-up?

Thanks again for posting all of your info, great job, hope it stays together.

 

[INDEEP]

How many of you guys checked your squish after the install? I bolted mine up with a updated head that was shaved by Carl's .020. My squish ended up at .050 . I pulled that head and put on my standard pre-update head and it still measured .055 the minimum recommended my MTK. What are you guys seeing?



I used .062 solder

 

[Kraven]

How many of you guys checked your squish after the install? I bolted mine up with a updated head that was shaved by Carl's .020. My squish ended up at .050 . I pulled that head and put on my standard pre-update head and it still measured .055 the minimum recommended my MTK. What are you guys seeing?



I used .062 solder

1) Did you check it IN-LINE with the wrist pin ?

2) And both cylinders,

3) Both sides of the same cylinder

If in doubt on the solder, take and "twist" 2 strands of solder together.

I've personally seen a variance of .005" from one side to the other on STOCK sleds un-touched from the factory

Hope this helps.

 

[INDEEP]

Yup I measured them both a couple times. There within .001 of each other but still it's pretty tight.

 

[Kraven]

Yup I measured them both a couple times. There within .001 of each other but still it's pretty tight.

Personally I would feel very comfortable with .050", I.M.H.O.

 

[diamonddave]

Agree...I would run the Carls head.

 

[SpokaneRMK]

How r these kits holding up, on the waiting list, just want to hear how guys motors are holding up.

 

[polhiker]

well took my 08 out today with the pms kit and the 08 head it ran awsome,all kinds of low in torque and top end,sled dosent viberate anymore either.I am so glade i put this kit in. thanks guys for a great product.

 

[harrysmith500]

Put 30 gallons of gas through the fix thus far. Awesome power off the bottom especially with the Exhaust valves plugged. Turning 8250-8300 rmp.

Can you say "winning"?