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The Get your FIX for the RMK 800

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just got my kit on so hopefully i can help with some feedback soon. i dont notice this sound difference every talks about but i had also waited on my cylinder for a month. u forget the good things when ur rotting in ur couch.
 
just took the sled out for the first time with the kit and the sled ran great all day, better low end throttle response. my question to u guys is that i tried hard to let it warm up to 120 all day long before i took off but the sled would never come close to that temp unless i was on it. i pulled it off my trailer and booted up( i wear a bunch of protective gear so it takes atleast 15 minutes to boot up) while it ran and went and checked the temp, 118, and thats the closest it got at idle. then if i let it warm up for around 3-5 minutes it would get to around 105-111 range depending on how long it sat. so i guess my question with these forged piston is it alright to started it up, wait for the temp to drop and come back up, and go ahead and ride?
 
just took the sled out for the first time with the kit and the sled ran great all day, better low end throttle response. my question to u guys is that i tried hard to let it warm up to 120 all day long before i took off but the sled would never come close to that temp unless i was on it. i pulled it off my trailer and booted up( i wear a bunch of protective gear so it takes atleast 15 minutes to boot up) while it ran and went and checked the temp, 118, and thats the closest it got at idle. then if i let it warm up for around 3-5 minutes it would get to around 105-111 range depending on how long it sat. so i guess my question with these forged piston is it alright to started it up, wait for the temp to drop and come back up, and go ahead and ride?

Miralas, thanks for the feed back on the kit, if your sled is at or over 100 degrees it is safe to ride it I just would wait until your at 110 before you give it WOT. I assume your were riding in the some good powder today?
 
flash

thanks for the info,now i just have to find a dealer who has that original o8 flash.

Call Shawn at pms. he has the original flash, but i lost my ecu and had a new one installed and they flahed it from the 08 original to the 09. pissed me off but they did it without asking and they didnt have the 08 anyway. Well after running the 09 flash, it runs better than than before. But it is boosted.
 
^^^^ Excellent, sounds good. Just come back from a three day ride with mine. 400 miles on it now and that little thing rips. I'm going to pull the ex valves off tom. and take a look. As Miralas comented about temps, I also let it warm up to low 100's then ease into after that. It takes it a long time to build heat after 100 at idle it seems. And as for the heat soak after sitting, I start it well before averyone else is ready to go. Helps speed them up a bit, temps drop then comes back up to 118 - 120 area.
 
Miralas, thanks for the feed back on the kit, if your sled is at or over 100 degrees it is safe to ride it I just would wait until your at 110 before you give it WOT. I assume your were riding in the some good powder today?



20 degrees all day with no new snow, but the guy i was with had a ton of secret spots with more than two feet of good pow. spent more than half the day that stuff, was a great way to get back on the snow. :face-icon-small-coo
 
I got the ex valves out and cleaned up. Pistons look good yet, you can still see the W plain as day. That is a major relief to see. It would pull 8350 rpm's all three days we rode. Also put in a new ex temp probe that is supposed to be updated, didn't get a check engine light at all. That is also a nice change of pace!
 
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I've put a couple miles on my dragon with the fix kit in and while the top end is pig rich the thing still rips. I'm still running the premix tank as I've only got a half hour and maybe 20 miles on it so far but its stronger than I ever remember it being in the past.

I'll have another update when the trails get groomed. The 40 degree weather for a week straight turned all the snow to concrete so I'm not rushing out to pound miles on it yet. :rain:
 
Fix BMP Dyno Results are in

Ok I spent this morning at BMP Bikeman Performance in Osceola, WI. I invited the Full Monte from the forum to come out and he checked out the dyno session today so dont be surprised if he posts more information about the dyno session, there was more info then I can begin to remember to share, It was a pleasure to meet Monte in person and I had a great time talking sleds with him today.

Joey Strub at Bikeman did all of the dyno & tuning work and he is like a walking dictionary. We had some good test and tune results.

1. The MTNTK / PMS Polaris the fix kit did make 5-6 hp more than the sled did stock by the dyno results. (Feel free to look up my orignal posts from last year when the sled was new and stock with the 2010 updates.)

2. My sled does not have the 2010 or april ECU map flash it has the orignal 08/09 flash and the orignal 08/09 cylinder head with the 2010 updated jug/cylinder and the fix kit as well as the EV hoses plugged.

3. The HP sky rocketed when we put the BMP pipe on the sled by almost 12.9 hp and 5.1 ft of torque in file BMP data5910-1 and BMP data5910-2

4. Almost all of the pulls were at 112-115 degrees except for one we did at 130 to see how the dyno numbers showed for the redneck racing gizmo and sorry to report both the torque and horse power dropped down to 143.3 hp and 96.7 ft of tq in file BMP data5906-1 and BMP data5906-2. We used the display on the sled to verify engine coolant temps for every pull.

5. After the BMP pie was installed we installed my PCV with Jim's tune from DTR for the BMP Pipe and orignal 08/09 map and ended up with some very good dyno numbers and then we tweaked his tune a little bit and got a little more mid range and a tiny bit more on the top with a little less tq.

Last but not least I will post picks and then the individual dyno pull sheets besides the graph post after post until they are all posted. If you have any questions please post. If you want copies of the dyno sheets emailed to you feel free to pm me or email r44guy@gmail.com.

2011-02-23_09-46-00_808.jpg 2011-02-23_09-46-12_406.jpg 2011-02-23_09-46-47_416.jpg 2011-02-23_10-02-41_631.jpg 2011-02-23_10-03-23_967.jpg 2011-02-23_10-19-35_292.jpg 2011-02-23_10-20-02_535.jpg
 
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R44guy, what can are you running with the bikeman pipe? Did you do any runs with diffrent cans with the PCV hooked up?
 
BMP Dyno

More Results, For those who want to know what will happen with 15 degrees hotter or higher heat only up from 115 degrees to 130 degrees? check out the top row 5th over dyno sheet to the right and then the 2nd page on lower second row left single page sheet show how much hp and tq are lost, then just imagine running the engine up into the 135 to 145 or 150 degree range? since that is what some of the gizmo owners are reporting and think about how much power they must be losing with this extra high heat, I like the idea of the gizmo with help avoiding the cold shocks to the cylinder and piston but that heat is way too high and is lowering engine hp & tq out put. If the gizmo's t-stat was set at 105-110 it may be a better design?

5904-1.jpg 5904-2.jpg 5905-1.jpg 5905-2.jpg 5906-1.jpg 5906-2.jpg
 
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