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Replaced my broken a-arm and installed: Poo a-arm guards, 10-68 weights, 2 sets of Poo hood straps, and I built a tps harness and set the tps and idle, I also bought a bar mounted tether but have nowhere to put it for now with my stock bar setup. My headlight problem is just a bulb, I must have gotten mixed up testing it the other day. :rolleyes:
I finally got me a bottle of the new VES Gold Plus... completely different looking and smelling oil than the Gold from last year:confused:
Back to work tomorrow morning for 4, but Saturday we have a ride planned:beer;:) can't wait!


good deal..glad you got some good progess on that baby..i sent you a PM..

on the tether...i got one for the wifes sled and mounted it on the lowest part of the grab bar since she has the handlebar cover...if you need a pic..let me know, i will shoot one for you..

dump the VES...get some good stuff...read the "crankin' on my 06 900" thread
 
That's a great Idea Sean! thank you, I will put the tether on the grab bar. I too am running the stock handlebar cover (hacked up a bit to make room for my pivot riser)
Yeah, I suppose it's time to get burning a different oil, I'll go read the thread you mentioned.
Dan
 
Out for another great ride yesterday!
Ive put my mountain switch 9 up against all the new 800's now, and I couldn't be happier. She flat out rips.
Once again I would like to thank everyone who offered help, and advice to get me where I am, you know who you are! I now have a 900 that makes the haters shut their mouth in a hurry lol.
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Thanks guys, appreciate the compliments. The one thing I really like about this mountain Switch is having a different hood color than other RMKs.
On to a small clutching discussion if you guys don't mind:

What kind of rpm change would be expected from a 2g change in weights? (example: from 10-70's to 10-68's)

Concerning belt deflection. I have always set my 9hunny according to Poo specs which is 1 1/4", but I am sure I saw in a clutching thread in here (which I can't find now) to set it at 3/4"... thoughts?
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the compliments. The one thing I really like about this mountain Switch is having a different hood color than other RMKs.
On to a small clutching discussion if you guys don't mind:

What kind of rpm change would be expected from a 2g change in weights? (example: from 10-70's to 10-68's)

Concerning belt deflection. I have always set my 9hunny according to Poo specs which is 1 1/4", but I am sure I saw in a clutching thread in here (which I can't find now) to set it at 3/4"... thoughts?

belt deflection SHOULD be at 1-1/4"..no less...3/4 and you will start squeaking and end up wearing a bad groove into you sheaves..

the clutching...depends on what your trying to achieve....what max rpm are you hitting now..you should not be higher then 8000/8050 rpms..if anything..it would be easier/cheaper to change springs...
 
belt deflection SHOULD be at 1-1/4"..no less...3/4 and you will start squeaking and end up wearing a bad groove into you sheaves..

the clutching...depends on what your trying to achieve....what max rpm are you hitting now..you should not be higher then 8000/8050 rpms..if anything..it would be easier/cheaper to change springs...

Thanks Sean, that's the answer I was looking for, it is set to the Poo spec.

I'll tell you the reason I ask about the weight change. Running the 10-70s, it runs at about 7300. With the 10-68s its up at 7800. This is going by live tach readings while riding. I want to be at 7600 as that seems to be where the sled runs best for me (seat of the pants feel)

A spring change might be in order anyways because my engagement seems low (3300 - 3400)
 
Thanks Sean, that's the answer I was looking for, it is set to the Poo spec.

I'll tell you the reason I ask about the weight change. Running the 10-70s, it runs at about 7300. With the 10-68s its up at 7800. This is going by live tach readings while riding. I want to be at 7600 as that seems to be where the sled runs best for me (seat of the pants feel)

A spring change might be in order anyways because my engagement seems low (3300 - 3400)


yeh 7300 is pretty low..try the 68s..whats your altitude?

what spring do you have now..black/green?
try the blue/pink or the green/pink...
 
So far I haven't gotten out to the big mountains so this is all close to home: 4000 - 5500 feet.
SLP blue pink primary

Team 64 -44 .46 helix
Team red pink with delrins

When I go to the big mountains I probably jump up to the 6000 - 8000 feet range so I need to plan for that as well
 
A little more clutching discussion if you guys are up for it.

A small group of me and some friends drove out to BC for a day trip yesterday, so I finally got to do some higher elevation riding with the 9.
We unloaded at 3000' and headed up the trail. She ran great down there running at about 7550, but once we got up into the alpine which was between 6000 and 7100' it was running at about 7050 which you can imagine was horrible.
I double checked a few things up top just to make sure some other problem hadn't come up, and everything looked good, so I suffered with it. After the days ride, on our way down the mountain the rpm's came up with the elevation drop and arriving back at the truck it was right back to 7550, so it surely just elevation / clutching at play.
Last year I never noticed such a sensitivity to elevation change, I'm thinking that with my gearing, and secondary clutching changes made this year, it has become overly sensitive to elevation... is this common? or odd?

So now I am left with this....
I have a decent clutch setup for around home, getting good rpm and power for my home elevation. I now need to get a second setup in my tool bag for the bigger mountains so I never suffer like I did yesterday again.
The one thing I am wondering about is that I am already down to 10-68's at home, is going with 66's or 64's too much? Maybe I should be getting the mountain setup from a spring instead? My 10-68's kinda seem out to lunch when reading about other guys primary setups.

Dan
 
Clutch tuning is on hold for a week or so, I found roller with a flat spot.:mad: I'm taking my clutch to the shop tomorrow for a rebuild. I will have to continue when I get it back. It's possible the roller issue was causing some of my clutching inconsistency.
Dan
 
I couldn't get my clutch off trying the usual methods, so I brought it to my favorite Poo dealer near home for them to deal with. They had no luck initially either.... I left the sled with them, hoping it goes smoothly. Downtime sucks, but at least I noticed the bad roller before it tore up my weights, or worse....
:beer;:rolleyes::beer;
 
Hmm, good luck, sometimes it can take an act of congress to get those clutches off!

Lots of teflon tape, grease, and water will usually be your best bet, but it will take at least 2 strong guys even at that.:eek:
 
Hmm, good luck, sometimes it can take an act of congress to get those clutches off!

Lots of teflon tape, grease, and water will usually be your best bet, but it will take at least 2 strong guys even at that.:eek:

Gotta love the increased torque spec lol. I did try the water trick... unfortunately we have some unseasonably warm temps on the go here and it didn't work for me. I do like to do all my own wrenching, but this one seemed out of my grasp, and I would rather pay a bit if it minimizes my down time.
The service rep at my Poo dealer said they would try the water trick, and go from there. They weren't sure if their puller was shouldering out or not, so they wanted to get it in the shop and mod a puller if necessary.
Worst case scenario... if it has to be cut off, one of our SW members who is only an hour or so from me has offered to sell me a complete clutch for a reasonable price, I think I will pick it up either way for the spares.
Fingers crossed, Dan
 
2010/2011 Season updates!:
I wanted to share some pics of what I'm doing this year, may as well just continue on this thread.
Right now I am waiting on a large box of parts from Carl's to get here, and for my clutch to come back from balancing, so the sled is in a million pieces still.
So, for this year... here's the list:
-09 front end kit
-Mountain Fit Hoods 4 piece hood vents, and side panel vents
-SLP exhaust deflector (mine was tweaked)
-All Balls chaincase / jackshaft bearings
-new oil cable (yes I'm still using the stocker setup, with a spring)
-new coolant hose under the engine, just because
-idler / wheel bearings, just because
-Compfusion front engine mounts
-new rear engine mounts
-all new grade 8 engine hardware
-ground flat spots on the back of rear engine mounting ears on case so I can put a nut on the back
-tapped engine x-bar bolt holes for longer bolts
-yearly windshield replacement (low 8" black)
-finally painted my front springs (the last bit of red gone!)
-brake vent screen (getting rid of the duct)
-359/47 torsion springs (the 375/77's were too stiff last year)
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I love the way the vents turned out! The extra black pops on the blue hood.
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Anyone having trouble with a left hand throttle not returning cleanly or not achieving WOT... here's how I got mine to work.
The spring returns the lefty nicely, and independent from the throttle return spring. A short length of rubber hose over the cable where you secure it to the bars helps with maintaining adjustment and getting WOT all the time.
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Here's where I mounted my Pro Design tether... off the mountain bar at last!
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Here was my free rider select delete I did last year but don't think I mentioned.
I cross drilled a hole through the whole assembly and locked it down with a bolt at about the 4 1/2 position... still solid as a rock.
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