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I have a question.... my lower chain case sprocket came with a washer in the package. I don't recall one being there when I took the originals out last week but it appears that it should go behind the sprocket on the shaft. Can anyone confirm this for me
 
I have a question.... my lower chain case sprocket came with a washer in the package. I don't recall one being there when I took the originals out last week but it appears that it should go behind the sprocket on the shaft. Can anyone confirm this for me

Just did my sprockets and mine did not have a washer underneath. I would compare it to your old sprocket for how far out it sits with and without the washer. I got an artic cat sprocket by accident and it didn't sit out on the shaft as far.
 
Thanks, yup the washer was necessary. The sprockets lines up perfect with the washer behind it.
 
I got most of it done today, there's a little left to do tomorrow but I should be able to get it finished up.

Complications:
-cant see the chain case sight glass very well to see if I got it full. Need to find a small mirror I guess.
-snapped a bolt of in one of my rsi risers. Happy drilling time.
-the spg float plate looks like it will be a total beast to get riveted into place properly. They say to start from the back and work towards the front but I think it might be easier the other way.
-hard to judge the new track tension with all the folds and wrinkles in it.
 
I got most of it done today, there's a little left to do tomorrow but I should be able to get it finished up.

Complications:
-cant see the chain case sight glass very well to see if I got it full. Need to find a small mirror I guess.
-snapped a bolt of in one of my rsi risers. Happy drilling time.
-the spg float plate looks like it will be a total beast to get riveted into place properly. They say to start from the back and work towards the front but I think it might be easier the other way.
-hard to judge the new track tension with all the folds and wrinkles in it.

I tensioned mine today and man it seems tight! I tensioned it to 1/2 inch like the book said but I don't know.... need to run it still.

Its also a new track by the way

Can you see it through the footwell at all??
 
The sight glass you mean... yeah I can see it, but its a bad angle to see the level. I may have overfilled it, I`ll have to tilt the sled over a bit tomorrow and try to look again.
As far as the track goes, I`m thinking it needs a few miles to straighten out the folds, and then it should be easier to judge the tension.
 
I managed to drill the offending riser bolt last night, hopefully it comes out by using a torx bit as an easy out.
Off to the garage I go!
 
Truth be known.... I enjoy wrenching on my machines, generally speaking lol. So much more gratifying than hauling them to shops/dealers.
Here's what I did last year when my sled ran too reliably and didn't need work:
2007 CR250R polished frame
IMGP0006.jpg
 
It's together, and ready for some test riding.
No luck getting the broken bolt out of the riser, so for now I have the pivot adapter upside-down with a 3" block on top. This is 3" shorter than what I have planned with the full risers, but that may be too much because it feels pretty good as it is.
I didn't get the float plate on, another day when I have a few pairs of helping hands, I'll try and get it installed. If anyone has tips on how to get it on straight I'm all ears! lol
I installed the 10-70 weights, so we shall see how that works. If I don't get out today, tomorrow for sure I will get out and test everything and put some miles on the new track to break it in. Can't wait!:beer;:D
PICT0100.jpg

PICT0101.jpg

PICT0102.jpg
 
Looks pretty damn good to me! I only need to ride mine to the dealer for the SLP reflash and TPS setting and I should be good! Didn't get everything I wanted to before the season but I gotta live with it. Going overseas and getting married in 10 days puts a damper on things....

I hear ya with the hobbies. I have a 30+ thousand dollar gsxr 1000 rocket sitting in my garage.
 
Haha, yeah it's only a little snow but IT'S HERE!:beer;:D I can't ride from the house quite yet, but there are a few spots 5 minutes out of town that have enough to play.
Speaking of which, I loaded her up and took her out to put a few miles on. This 9 just got woke the hell up! There were alot of changes made at once so it's hard to know what to credit all the gains to, but it's a whole new machine.

Engagement rpm is a bit higher than I was used to, and it hits 7600 almost immediately when I lay into the fuel and holds it there perfectly. So it seems to be dialed in for my home elevation, just have to wait and see how it runs in the big mountains. Clutch temps are way down, although I didn't get to work it really hard, no long steep pulls today.

On - off throttle climbing is vastly improved... it's always ready to flash right back to 7600, no more slow buildup of rpm's. I also noticed a fair bit more engine braking.

I tested the "plugged exhaust valve" mod in a few situations. It flashed up to operating rpm noticeably quicker in all situations with the hoses plugged I will be leaving it plugged. (stock springs by the way)

The track is awesome so far, although I was either on pack with 4" of fresh on top, or on the sides of the trail there was 4feet+ of dry champagne powder with no base.... hardly a full variety of conditions but everything points to a thumbs up so far.

The grippers work very well in the deeper stuff, a huge improvement over my stockers in every way except I am just running flat wear bars now... the carbides on my old skis rocked the corners, now I have to be a little more aware.

225 track shock spring, and 375 torsions seem great, steering effort is about 1/2 of what it was before. She sags no more, sits high and pround even on the lowest torsion block setting, I may loosen up the track shock spring a bit, its seems a bit stiff. What are your thoughts on stiffening up the ski shocks to balance out the stiffer rear end?

The old rad intake is taking on alot of fine snow... filling my nose pan. This issue should be gone when I get the float plate installed. I'm also going to put some fine screen behind the vent at the very front tip of the hood as alot of snow seems to come through there too.

I don't go back to work until sunday so I should be able to get another ride or 2 to prove the setup before I trailer it to BC for some real mountain riding.
Looking forward to every mile of it!:)

So, here's the setup I ended up with:
Stock motor, Fire N Ice intake & vents, MBRP can

19/42 gearing
SLP blue / pink drive spring
Team 10-70 weights
Team 420409 64-40ER.46/64-44ER .46 helix
Team red / pink driven spring
Team delrin washer under spring cup and on other side of spring
Polaris series IV 151x2.4 track
 
Got some more seat time in today. Ditch bangin' an hour away from home, the snow was deep and fluffy, awesome conditions... just a little too cold.

A few issues came up.
-Alot of snow is coming into the front pan where the rad used to be.
-Snow is getting in where the hood meets the front fender above the primary clutch
-My hood doesn't seal to my Fire n Ice airbox anymore and with the snow coming in under the hood it's ingesting some snow.
-Theres a rattling noise from the clutch area, I'm hoping its just the rivets / washers for the slp belly pan vent.

Otherwise the 9 is running great with all the new mods, and should be a stout mountain sled this year, just a few bugs to iron out.
 
Got some more seat time in today. Ditch bangin' an hour away from home, the snow was deep and fluffy, awesome conditions... just a little too cold.

-Snow is getting in where the hood meets the front fender above the primary clutch

That one I have a suggestion for as I experienced the same problem when I threw my F&I airbox on.

Go to a local RV service center and ask for a "Foam air conditioner seal" Should come as a square chunk of foam 1 inch thick and 1-1/4 inch wide. The reason this is best is because it is a closed cell foam and wont suck up water and freeze like open cell foam will and its already self adhesive on 1 side. Should cost about $15 and you will have enough to do 2 or 3 sleds. I don't have any pics of it installed on my sled, but I HIGHLY recommend it:D:D
 
Got some more seat time in today. Ditch bangin' an hour away from home, the snow was deep and fluffy, awesome conditions... just a little too cold.

A few issues came up.
-Alot of snow is coming into the front pan where the rad used to be.
-Snow is getting in where the hood meets the front fender above the primary clutch
-My hood doesn't seal to my Fire n Ice airbox anymore and with the snow coming in under the hood it's ingesting some snow.
-Theres a rattling noise from the clutch area, I'm hoping its just the rivets / washers for the slp belly pan vent.

Otherwise the 9 is running great with all the new mods, and should be a stout mountain sled this year, just a few bugs to iron out.

great to hear..

--did you silicone ALL your body lines when you worked on it..get some black sealant and go through it and seal up everything you can..it helps a lot..
--give the foam idea that 94 satated above...great idea.
--some primaries make a little rattling at idle but stops when your moving, but this could also be a busted primary spring, or an issue with your clutch spider...have seen it happen before...or even worn out clutch bushings allowing spider movemnet.
--you better hope you dont have any rivots "floating" around in there...will only take one small piece to get injestioned, or go in the small hole above your stator housing and BAM..no more motor...get in there with a magnet and clean it out really good..


keep up the good work and finish her up and your money for the season..:beer;
 
great to hear..

--did you silicone ALL your body lines when you worked on it..get some black sealant and go through it and seal up everything you can..it helps a lot..
--give the foam idea that 94 satated above...great idea.
--some primaries make a little rattling at idle but stops when your moving, but this could also be a busted primary spring, or an issue with your clutch spider...have seen it happen before...or even worn out clutch bushings allowing spider movemnet.
--you better hope you dont have any rivots "floating" around in there...will only take one small piece to get injestioned, or go in the small hole above your stator housing and BAM..no more motor...get in there with a magnet and clean it out really good..


keep up the good work and finish her up and your money for the season..:beer;

Good stuff! Be sure to silicone like he said. DON'T GET IT ON YOUR HANDS!!!!:mad:(ask me how I know)
 
That one I have a suggestion for as I experienced the same problem when I threw my F&I airbox on.

Go to a local RV service center and ask for a "Foam air conditioner seal" Should come as a square chunk of foam 1 inch thick and 1-1/4 inch wide. The reason this is best is because it is a closed cell foam and wont suck up water and freeze like open cell foam will and its already self adhesive on 1 side. Should cost about $15 and you will have enough to do 2 or 3 sleds. I don't have any pics of it installed on my sled, but I HIGHLY recommend it:D:D

Sounds great 94, I was shocked to see the size of the hole looking at it from the front of my sled down low. I was running the FnI box last year too, I don't know why it never came up before.... I was in some pretty damn good pow today tho :beer;;) So where did you attach the foam? to the fender or the hood?

great to hear..

--did you silicone ALL your body lines when you worked on it..get some black sealant and go through it and seal up everything you can..it helps a lot..
--give the foam idea that 94 satated above...great idea.
--some primaries make a little rattling at idle but stops when your moving, but this could also be a busted primary spring, or an issue with your clutch spider...have seen it happen before...or even worn out clutch bushings allowing spider movemnet.
--you better hope you dont have any rivots "floating" around in there...will only take one small piece to get injestioned, or go in the small hole above your stator housing and BAM..no more motor...get in there with a magnet and clean it out really good..


keep up the good work and finish her up and your money for the season..

Yeah you becha Guido, I emptied a tube of urethane sealing the fenders, and nosecone to the bulkhead I think I'm in good shape there.
My known issues with snow leaking in as far as I know are:
-The rad intake grill on the belly. I glued 2 layers of screen door screen on the inside, and it's just not enough when the snow is dry like it was today. That entire cavity where the rad used to be was full of snow. The float plate should put a stop to most of this when I finally get it installed :rolleyes: but I want to block off that grill completely.
-The hole 94 made a suggestion for.... on my priority list now.
-My clutch side panel doesn't fit to the fender on the bottom quite like new.... more foam I suppose.

The airbox to hood seal in my biggest concern right now... not sure what I'll need to do, I'm thinking to start I will make sure the 2 holes are lined up perfectly and then add a foam or rubber seal to the intake of the airbox. I wonder why it was a new issue... It was very cold today and with all the under-hood snow I was getting the foam seal on the hood side was freezing up, maybe it's not an issue of that stays dry.... not sure yet.

As far as the rattle I heard..... I'll have to defrost the sled and investigate further while I'm dealing with the rest of this. The clutch seems to operate excellently so hopefully it's something small, maybe not even clutch related... could be just some random rattle under the hood I'll have to find and fix.

Good stuff! Be sure to silicone like he said. DON'T GET IT ON YOUR HANDS!!!!(ask me how I know)
You got that right! I still have urethane on my fingers from doing that job last week:mad: lol
 
Thanks again 94, I got the area left open by the FnI box sealed up with the closed cell foam you suggested, should work out good. I also attached a thin strip of this foam on the FnI box to make sure its sealing to the hood intake.

I found another source of snow intake once she defrosted! I have a hole in my nose pan big enough to put my fist through.:mad: This prompted me to get that float plate on finally, and there was only a small hole to seal up a bit after it was bolted on. Fixed for now, until I can afford to replace the front plastic, likely with the updated narrow front end.

The rattle ended up being the round jam nut that goes on behind the primary spring, securing the spider? It had worked it's way loose, but the spider was still in place. Tightened it up and everything seems good to go.

I got all this done yesterday and when I fired her up to load the sled in my truck.... the throttle was sticking part way open. The Powermadd throttle cable extension had some friction at times, so I took it out and re-routed the throttle cable to work with my 6" of riser. Of course driving it in and out of the garage with the cable messed up and the motor popping and farting due to the safety switch I seem to have fouled a plug, will replace today and hopefully I am good to go!:beer;:)
A buddy just came home with a new sled so I'm sure we will be out playing today and I can verify all of this worked out good.

I have to give everyone who threw in some advice for me on this thread, and of course the vault of info on clutching and such in this sub... a HUGE thank you. I could never have got this far without the help.
 
Another test ride today, everything is working perfect, I am pleased with how the 9 is performing.:beer;:):beer; Tomorrow we are heading for the deep stuff a little further from town, I'll see if all my hood / intake sealing works properly
 
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