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STANDALONE ECU PLUG N PLAY DIRECT FACTORY REPLACEMENT 800CC POLARIS ENGINE

why run staged injection again? :face-icon-small-dis

COST!!!!!!!!!!
Standalone = 2000.00
Injectors ~= 200.00
C23 5 Gallons = 242.8390 US dollars
Total= $2442.839

Staged Injectors Fuel controller = $250.00 Retail
Injectors = $106.00 Retail
5 Gallons of Av = $25.00
Total= $381.00

Why the heck do you have run C23 fuel? I'm running pump gas at 6 psi on an etec and it will go 112 mph.
 
Oh...thats not correct...then prove me wrong....BD argued with me last year about the same sh*t and look what they did this year....added injectors & volume....huh...wonder where they got that idea from.....

I can tell you that on a Silber turbo kit you will run out of fuel with the stock injectors running 58 psi of fuel pressure at 3-4 pounds of boost at 4000 ft and the same with the Aerocharger setup. By turning the fuel pressure down to 42-43 psi the amount of boost that can be achieved on stock injectors is going to decrease. This will decrease the horsepower that engine can achieve by about 26 hp at 80% duty cycle. You can also double check all my findings with "MATH". I know the majority of people on snowest don't believe in math or physics for 2 strokes.

The actually PSI of the system doesn't really mean anything. Someone might have a kit that runs 8 psi on stock injectors but if the turbo kit isn't efficient then they will be able to run more boost then someone else with an efficient kit....but the horsepower will still be the same.

You guys are basically saying that if you have 350 main jet out of a carburetor that your "standalone" will be able to make that main jet flow like a 500. That is impossible.

I not trying to bash anyone....a standalone is a great way to go if you have the money and time. If you know how to set it up it can work amazing. I just want everyone to know the truth before spending 2000.00 on a replacement ECU.

like I said its been proven, period! Believe what you want and do all the math you want but the truth is the truth. I know this system is expensive,I know it works, and the other thing I know is that all the time and research I have done is not going to be laid out on snowest. My customers will benefit.
 
COST!!!!!!!!!!
Standalone = 2000.00
Injectors ~= 200.00
C23 5 Gallons = 242.8390 US dollars
Total= $2442.839

Staged Injectors Fuel controller = $250.00 Retail
Injectors = $106.00 Retail
5 Gallons of Av = $25.00
Total= $381.00

Why the heck do you have run C23 fuel? I'm running pump gas at 6 psi on an etec and it will go 112 mph.

I'm only running the C23 because I had it laying around in the garage from a previous project. I realize I don't HAVE to run it.

I'm not talking down about staged injection, I'm just saying why run it when you don't have to....K.I.S.S.

The VIPEC can give you the option to run basically any injector you want and tune the dead times to get it to run and idle like stock. Are there any others out there with fuel controller boxes running 2k's and making them idle and cruise like stock?
 
Oh...thats not correct...then prove me wrong....BD argued with me last year about the same sh*t and look what they did this year....added injectors & volume....huh...wonder where they got that idea from.....

I can tell you that on a Silber turbo kit you will run out of fuel with the stock injectors running 58 psi of fuel pressure at 3-4 pounds of boost at 4000 ft and the same with the Aerocharger setup. By turning the fuel pressure down to 42-43 psi the amount of boost that can be achieved on stock injectors is going to decrease. This will decrease the horsepower that engine can achieve by about 26 hp at 80% duty cycle. You can also double check all my findings with "MATH". I know the majority of people on snowest don't believe in math or physics for 2 strokes.

The actually PSI of the system doesn't really mean anything. Someone might have a kit that runs 8 psi on stock injectors but if the turbo kit isn't efficient then they will be able to run more boost then someone else with an efficient kit....but the horsepower will still be the same.

You guys are basically saying that if you have 350 main jet out of a carburetor that your "standalone" will be able to make that main jet flow like a 500. That is impossible.

I not trying to bash anyone....a standalone is a great way to go if you have the money and time. If you know how to set it up it can work amazing. I just want everyone to know the truth before spending 2000.00 on a replacement ECU.

First of all, i would like to introduce myself, my name is sebastien and i am the tuner and developper of this vipec plug in ecu. I have never posted on this forum before but now i think it is time for me to clarify some things

like you, i do believe in math for 2 strokes or 4 strokes, a engine is an air pump, thats it!
for the injectors duty cycle, let me explain..

i decided to go to 43 psi because with the rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator, we will have room for 15 psi with the stock fuel pump..

the stock fuel pump runs @ 58 psi, by dropping the fuel pressure to 43 psi, i know i will be able to use the good effects of the fpr without overloading the stock fuel pump and the charging system.
if you are not using a rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator here is what happens

lets say you have 500ccm injectors at 58 psi end you are running 8 psi without fpr, that meens you get 58 psi - 8 psi = 50 psi real fuel pressure

now you got only 464,24 ccm injectors, that is way probably you are running out of fuel... as much you increase the boost, as much you decrease the injectors size if you are not running fpr


at high altitude, 7000 and over, you get around 75 kpa of absolute pressure, with a 6 psi spring in the hm turbo kit (aerocharger air to water intercooler), i was getting 115 kpa asolute at full boost, and i was using only 80% duty cycle to achieve the same air fuel ratio.

if you get the engine running perfectly normaly aspirated, then when it gets in boost, you wont have to increase the pulse width to get the same amount of fuel in the engine..

now i am at see level and with the same 6 psi spring, i get to 160 kpa absolute and i am still using the same injectors but i am close of 90% duty cycle, with the 2011 injectors that are smaller the 2012..

let me explain
here is the formula to calculate how much boost you will be able to run at high altitude with stock injectors..
160 kpa absolute @ see level - 75 kpa absolute at 7000 feets = 85 kpa of boost available

85 kpa x 0.14504 = 12,33 psi

that meens that you can run 12,33 psi at high altitude with no problems,
:face-icon-small-coo

here is the REAL maximum for stock 2012 injectors
12.33 psi @ high altutude
8 psi @ sea level

i don't believe in using fuel to cool down the reeds valves, having a good intercooler system will save them, not fuel....

fuel requirement for a given horsepower is always directly related to brake specific fuel consumption, by getting the engine running efficient, you can drop the bsfc from .65 to .58 no problem even maybe .55, that meens that you can use less fuel for the same horsepower.
I am not telling the i make a 350 jet a 500 jet, i am just using every drop of fuel efficiently :)

why our ecu is the best solution for turbo charged application

1. first of all, when installing the air box and the turbocharger, you will change the volumetric efficienty of the engine even when it runs normaly aspirated, i found that a 2 strokes engine is really responsive on exhaust back pressure and intake back pressure. that is why i had to re-tune the entire fuel map with no charge tube before thinking about boost..
the stock rmk was pulling 130 hp on the dyno, when we installed the turbo kit, without charge tube, the engine was pulling only 105 to 110 hp, this is why you have to get the engine running perfect without boost first, i don't see how it can be done with a piggyback.... everything is possible, but probably takes a lot more time...


2. the ignition as to be perfect on boost, that is why you need to retard the ignition when boost comes in, a piggy back usually only controls fuel, what about ignition???????
of curse you can rely on the knock control from the stock ecu, but everything changes when knock happens, the stock ecu will add fuel and back off the timing, you will reajust your piggyback and you have just started chasing your tale..

3. will it be hard to get it running with the vipec...
yes it is hard to get a 2 strokes turbocharged engine running perfeclty. that is why i am putting a lot of time on getting the base map as close as possible from perfection.
boost will be always boost, we all ready have some real good running turbocharged sled using our products, i don't think i will see a big difference between any turbo kit manufacturers, boost will always be boost, 6 psi is 6 psi.. the big difference between all turbo kits will be air charged temperture,

4. barometric compensation, we included the barometric pressure to the fuel equation, that meens that an engine running 8200 rpm per minute will have 8200 baro update a minute, if you go up or down a hill
i'm sure fueling will stay on target:face-icon-small-coo

5. we have the possibility to run staged injection, but i think it is best to maximize the stock injectors and then use the stagged injectors to help with the fueling. i think it is the best way to get the engine running clean,
i am not a great sled ridder for sure but i don't see how i could handle more power then 12 psi on those machines
my arms are dead right now lol

hope this post help and was not to long!!!!
sebastien
precision efi
 
First of all, i would like to introduce myself, my name is sebastien and i am the tuner and developper of this vipec plug in ecu. I have never posted on this forum before but now i think it is time for me to clarify some things

like you, i do believe in math for 2 strokes or 4 strokes, a engine is an air pump, thats it!
for the injectors duty cycle, let me explain..

i decided to go to 43 psi because with the rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator, we will have room for 15 psi with the stock fuel pump..

the stock fuel pump runs @ 58 psi, by dropping the fuel pressure to 43 psi, i know i will be able to use the good effects of the fpr without overloading the stock fuel pump and the charging system.
if you are not using a rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator here is what happens

lets say you have 500ccm injectors at 58 psi end you are running 8 psi without fpr, that meens you get 58 psi - 8 psi = 50 psi real fuel pressure

now you got only 464,24 ccm injectors, that is way probably you are running out of fuel... as much you increase the boost, as much you decrease the injectors size if you are not running fpr


at high altitude, 7000 and over, you get around 75 kpa of absolute pressure, with a 6 psi spring in the hm turbo kit (aerocharger air to water intercooler), i was getting 115 kpa asolute at full boost, and i was using only 80% duty cycle to achieve the same air fuel ratio.

if you get the engine running perfectly normaly aspirated, then when it gets in boost, you wont have to increase the pulse width to get the same amount of fuel in the engine..

now i am at see level and with the same 6 psi spring, i get to 160 kpa absolute and i am still using the same injectors but i am close of 90% duty cycle, with the 2011 injectors that are smaller the 2012..

let me explain
here is the formula to calculate how much boost you will be able to run at high altitude with stock injectors..
160 kpa absolute @ see level - 75 kpa absolute at 7000 feets = 85 kpa of boost available

85 kpa x 0.14504 = 12,33 psi

that meens that you can run 12,33 psi at high altitude with no problems,
:face-icon-small-coo

here is the REAL maximum for stock 2012 injectors
12.33 psi @ high altutude
8 psi @ sea level

i don't believe in using fuel to cool down the reeds valves, having a good intercooler system will save them, not fuel....

fuel requirement for a given horsepower is always directly related to brake specific fuel consumption, by getting the engine running efficient, you can drop the bsfc from .65 to .58 no problem even maybe .55, that meens that you can use less fuel for the same horsepower.
I am not telling the i make a 350 jet a 500 jet, i am just using every drop of fuel efficiently :)

why our ecu is the best solution for turbo charged application

1. first of all, when installing the air box and the turbocharger, you will change the volumetric efficienty of the engine even when it runs normaly aspirated, i found that a 2 strokes engine is really responsive on exhaust back pressure and intake back pressure. that is why i had to re-tune the entire fuel map with no charge tube before thinking about boost..
the stock rmk was pulling 130 hp on the dyno, when we installed the turbo kit, without charge tube, the engine was pulling only 105 to 110 hp, this is why you have to get the engine running perfect without boost first, i don't see how it can be done with a piggyback.... everything is possible, but probably takes a lot more time...


2. the ignition as to be perfect on boost, that is why you need to retard the ignition when boost comes in, a piggy back usually only controls fuel, what about ignition???????
of curse you can rely on the knock control from the stock ecu, but everything changes when knock happens, the stock ecu will add fuel and back off the timing, you will reajust your piggyback and you have just started chasing your tale..

3. will it be hard to get it running with the vipec...
yes it is hard to get a 2 strokes turbocharged engine running perfeclty. that is why i am putting a lot of time on getting the base map as close as possible from perfection.
boost will be always boost, we all ready have some real good running turbocharged sled using our products, i don't think i will see a big difference between any turbo kit manufacturers, boost will always be boost, 6 psi is 6 psi.. the big difference between all turbo kits will be air charged temperture,

4. barometric compensation, we included the barometric pressure to the fuel equation, that meens that an engine running 8200 rpm per minute will have 8200 baro update a minute, if you go up or down a hill
i'm sure fueling will stay on target:face-icon-small-coo

5. we have the possibility to run staged injection, but i think it is best to maximize the stock injectors and then use the stagged injectors to help with the fueling. i think it is the best way to get the engine running clean,
i am not a great sled ridder for sure but i don't see how i could handle more power then 12 psi on those machines
my arms are dead right now lol

hope this post help and was not to long!!!!
sebastien
precision efi

They'll get it eventually Sebastian...........................I hope anyway hahah:face-icon-small-ton:usa2::usa2::usa2:
 
holy info overload!!! ;) I'm gonna have to say I'm glad someone much smarter than I am has put a whole BUNCH of energy into developing this!! I can comprehend some of it but some of it is over my head, I won't lie!!

BUT, I'm SUPER stoked to get this bad boy strapped onto my machine and take her for a few test pulls tonight in the field! Hoping I got all the little parts and pieces I needed so that we can finish the install!

More details after we get out on it! I'm SUPER stoked for the possibilities!!
 
How to start.....Well im Daryn, Ive been tuning in Skadi's sled for the past few days now. We started installing the Vi-PEC on thrusday evening...little more friday after work and fired it up sat. After spending about 4 hours sat morning trying to get the Vi-PEC program to load on this stupid Dell laptop we were rollin. Computers fault...nothign to do with Vi-PEC. Loaded the map to the ECU and it fired right up. The sled is a 11 pro with yellow injectors. HM Aerocharger with the water to air inercooler. So the first test was to run it without the boost tube tied to the airbox to make sure we are starting with a good non boost base map. took it out to the field in about 6 inches of snow and ran it. was SUPER impressed in how it felt right off the bat! rode it around for about 5 min to make sure there wasnt any stumbles in the map then came back to the shop to hook up the boost. Fuel was very close...no hickups and after data logging now i can see that its real good!

So now the fun began. I started building the boost map....5D fuel...Started by basicly going to one end of the field and holding it open at different throttle postions for about 100 yards while recording for the data logg. after about 5 hours of doin this on sunday I was pretty dam close to having a spot on 5D boost map. I spent about 2 hours on it today running in the field before the snow melts and now im happy enough with it to take to the hills and do some final tunning.

I have owned a few big mod sleds....run a boosted dragon now....and I can say that I never thought I would use a laptop to tune a mod sled...:face-icon-small-ton As of 5 days ago I had about zero experience with this program and even less with building fuel maps.....last fuel map i built had to do with a 380 main jet and see if that ran better....lol



Ive watched the Vi-PEC threads since they started testing this on the 1000s a few years ago. Im very glad that we have one now on this sled. Its already night and day difference in how the bottom end feels and just the consistency of the throttle. I should have it in the hills this weekend and will have the helmet cam rolling! hope to get the final test done and see how she does runnin in the trees!

With all that....This is a tunner box....you will have to learn data logging and some fuel mapping....BUT Vi-PEC has done a amazing job developing this program that its almost dummy proof. I just built a boost map in less than 8 hours of running the sled at home.... Kinda thought it would of been harder than that!

I'll post after this weekend with how it was in the mountains! :face-icon-small-hap

Oh ya....im doin this at about 2000 feet too.....
 
Last edited:
I'm done......i'm not trying to argue with you guys.....all i'm saying is a $250.00 controller shouldn't be compared to a $2000.00 standalone. If you have the money and the time a standalone is a great way to go.

"The Bull**** stops when the throttle drops"


First of all, i would like to introduce myself, my name is sebastien and i am the tuner and developper of this vipec plug in ecu. I have never posted on this forum before but now i think it is time for me to clarify some things

like you, i do believe in math for 2 strokes or 4 strokes, a engine is an air pump, thats it!
for the injectors duty cycle, let me explain..

i decided to go to 43 psi because with the rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator, we will have room for 15 psi with the stock fuel pump..

the stock fuel pump runs @ 58 psi, by dropping the fuel pressure to 43 psi, i know i will be able to use the good effects of the fpr without overloading the stock fuel pump and the charging system.
if you are not using a rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator here is what happens

lets say you have 500ccm injectors at 58 psi end you are running 8 psi without fpr, that meens you get 58 psi - 8 psi = 50 psi real fuel pressure

now you got only 464,24 ccm injectors, that is way probably you are running out of fuel... as much you increase the boost, as much you decrease the injectors size if you are not running fpr


at high altitude, 7000 and over, you get around 75 kpa of absolute pressure, with a 6 psi spring in the hm turbo kit (aerocharger air to water intercooler), i was getting 115 kpa asolute at full boost, and i was using only 80% duty cycle to achieve the same air fuel ratio.

if you get the engine running perfectly normaly aspirated, then when it gets in boost, you wont have to increase the pulse width to get the same amount of fuel in the engine..

now i am at see level and with the same 6 psi spring, i get to 160 kpa absolute and i am still using the same injectors but i am close of 90% duty cycle, with the 2011 injectors that are smaller the 2012..

let me explain
here is the formula to calculate how much boost you will be able to run at high altitude with stock injectors..
160 kpa absolute @ see level - 75 kpa absolute at 7000 feets = 85 kpa of boost available

85 kpa x 0.14504 = 12,33 psi

that meens that you can run 12,33 psi at high altitude with no problems,
:face-icon-small-coo

here is the REAL maximum for stock 2012 injectors
12.33 psi @ high altutude
8 psi @ sea level

i don't believe in using fuel to cool down the reeds valves, having a good intercooler system will save them, not fuel....

fuel requirement for a given horsepower is always directly related to brake specific fuel consumption, by getting the engine running efficient, you can drop the bsfc from .65 to .58 no problem even maybe .55, that meens that you can use less fuel for the same horsepower.
I am not telling the i make a 350 jet a 500 jet, i am just using every drop of fuel efficiently :)

why our ecu is the best solution for turbo charged application

1. first of all, when installing the air box and the turbocharger, you will change the volumetric efficienty of the engine even when it runs normaly aspirated, i found that a 2 strokes engine is really responsive on exhaust back pressure and intake back pressure. that is why i had to re-tune the entire fuel map with no charge tube before thinking about boost..
the stock rmk was pulling 130 hp on the dyno, when we installed the turbo kit, without charge tube, the engine was pulling only 105 to 110 hp, this is why you have to get the engine running perfect without boost first, i don't see how it can be done with a piggyback.... everything is possible, but probably takes a lot more time...


2. the ignition as to be perfect on boost, that is why you need to retard the ignition when boost comes in, a piggy back usually only controls fuel, what about ignition???????
of curse you can rely on the knock control from the stock ecu, but everything changes when knock happens, the stock ecu will add fuel and back off the timing, you will reajust your piggyback and you have just started chasing your tale..

3. will it be hard to get it running with the vipec...
yes it is hard to get a 2 strokes turbocharged engine running perfeclty. that is why i am putting a lot of time on getting the base map as close as possible from perfection.
boost will be always boost, we all ready have some real good running turbocharged sled using our products, i don't think i will see a big difference between any turbo kit manufacturers, boost will always be boost, 6 psi is 6 psi.. the big difference between all turbo kits will be air charged temperture,

4. barometric compensation, we included the barometric pressure to the fuel equation, that meens that an engine running 8200 rpm per minute will have 8200 baro update a minute, if you go up or down a hill
i'm sure fueling will stay on target:face-icon-small-coo

5. we have the possibility to run staged injection, but i think it is best to maximize the stock injectors and then use the stagged injectors to help with the fueling. i think it is the best way to get the engine running clean,
i am not a great sled ridder for sure but i don't see how i could handle more power then 12 psi on those machines
my arms are dead right now lol

hope this post help and was not to long!!!!
sebastien
precision efi
 
Cool to see a video of some regular riding with this unit, as opposed to just tearing straight up a hill. Keep up the good work!
 
First of all, i would like to introduce myself, my name is sebastien and i am the tuner and developper of this vipec plug in ecu. I have never posted on this forum before but now i think it is time for me to clarify some things

like you, i do believe in math for 2 strokes or 4 strokes, a engine is an air pump, thats it!
for the injectors duty cycle, let me explain..

i decided to go to 43 psi because with the rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator, we will have room for 15 psi with the stock fuel pump..

the stock fuel pump runs @ 58 psi, by dropping the fuel pressure to 43 psi, i know i will be able to use the good effects of the fpr without overloading the stock fuel pump and the charging system.
if you are not using a rising 1 to 1 fuel pressure regulator here is what happens

lets say you have 500ccm injectors at 58 psi end you are running 8 psi without fpr, that meens you get 58 psi - 8 psi = 50 psi real fuel pressure

now you got only 464,24 ccm injectors, that is way probably you are running out of fuel... as much you increase the boost, as much you decrease the injectors size if you are not running fpr


at high altitude, 7000 and over, you get around 75 kpa of absolute pressure, with a 6 psi spring in the hm turbo kit (aerocharger air to water intercooler), i was getting 115 kpa asolute at full boost, and i was using only 80% duty cycle to achieve the same air fuel ratio.

if you get the engine running perfectly normaly aspirated, then when it gets in boost, you wont have to increase the pulse width to get the same amount of fuel in the engine..

now i am at see level and with the same 6 psi spring, i get to 160 kpa absolute and i am still using the same injectors but i am close of 90% duty cycle, with the 2011 injectors that are smaller the 2012..

let me explain
here is the formula to calculate how much boost you will be able to run at high altitude with stock injectors..
160 kpa absolute @ see level - 75 kpa absolute at 7000 feets = 85 kpa of boost available

85 kpa x 0.14504 = 12,33 psi

that meens that you can run 12,33 psi at high altitude with no problems,
:face-icon-small-coo

here is the REAL maximum for stock 2012 injectors
12.33 psi @ high altutude
8 psi @ sea level

i don't believe in using fuel to cool down the reeds valves, having a good intercooler system will save them, not fuel....

fuel requirement for a given horsepower is always directly related to brake specific fuel consumption, by getting the engine running efficient, you can drop the bsfc from .65 to .58 no problem even maybe .55, that meens that you can use less fuel for the same horsepower.
I am not telling the i make a 350 jet a 500 jet, i am just using every drop of fuel efficiently :)

why our ecu is the best solution for turbo charged application

1. first of all, when installing the air box and the turbocharger, you will change the volumetric efficienty of the engine even when it runs normaly aspirated, i found that a 2 strokes engine is really responsive on exhaust back pressure and intake back pressure. that is why i had to re-tune the entire fuel map with no charge tube before thinking about boost..
the stock rmk was pulling 130 hp on the dyno, when we installed the turbo kit, without charge tube, the engine was pulling only 105 to 110 hp, this is why you have to get the engine running perfect without boost first, i don't see how it can be done with a piggyback.... everything is possible, but probably takes a lot more time...


2. the ignition as to be perfect on boost, that is why you need to retard the ignition when boost comes in, a piggy back usually only controls fuel, what about ignition???????
of curse you can rely on the knock control from the stock ecu, but everything changes when knock happens, the stock ecu will add fuel and back off the timing, you will reajust your piggyback and you have just started chasing your tale..

3. will it be hard to get it running with the vipec...
yes it is hard to get a 2 strokes turbocharged engine running perfeclty. that is why i am putting a lot of time on getting the base map as close as possible from perfection.
boost will be always boost, we all ready have some real good running turbocharged sled using our products, i don't think i will see a big difference between any turbo kit manufacturers, boost will always be boost, 6 psi is 6 psi.. the big difference between all turbo kits will be air charged temperture,

4. barometric compensation, we included the barometric pressure to the fuel equation, that meens that an engine running 8200 rpm per minute will have 8200 baro update a minute, if you go up or down a hill
i'm sure fueling will stay on target:face-icon-small-coo

5. we have the possibility to run staged injection, but i think it is best to maximize the stock injectors and then use the stagged injectors to help with the fueling. i think it is the best way to get the engine running clean,
i am not a great sled ridder for sure but i don't see how i could handle more power then 12 psi on those machines
my arms are dead right now lol

hope this post help and was not to long!!!!
sebastien
precision efi

I didn't read it all, a lot of it is a bit over my head, but I do not agree with number 3... It's pretty common knowledge all boost is NOT equal. Running a bigger less restrictive turbo at 6psi compared to a smaller more restrictive turbo at 6psi is gonna equal more HP. In your guys case the veins in the VVT turbo may be more restrictive then a fixed vein turbo. Not saying it is but saying all boost numbers are the same is not correct.
 
I didn't read it all, a lot of it is a bit over my head, but I do not agree with number 3... It's pretty common knowledge all boost is NOT equal. Running a bigger less restrictive turbo at 6psi compared to a smaller more restrictive turbo at 6psi is gonna equal more HP. In your guys case the veins in the VVT turbo may be more restrictive then a fixed vein turbo. Not saying it is but saying all boost numbers are the same is not correct.
Sorry but I gotta (at least somewhat, he's right, and your kinda there) disagree. The bigger turbo makes more power because it doesn't have to work as hard to create 6 psi in the airbox/motor. This is what he was saying about charge temp. The bigger turbo has a cooler charge temp so at 6psi there is a lot more o2 going into the airbox due to the fact that the colder air is more dense.

A given pressure and temperature in the air box will always be the same as the same given pressure and temperature in the airbox regardless of how you get it there.
 
I didn't read it all, a lot of it is a bit over my head, but I do not agree with number 3... It's pretty common knowledge all boost is NOT equal. Running a bigger less restrictive turbo at 6psi compared to a smaller more restrictive turbo at 6psi is gonna equal more HP. In your guys case the veins in the VVT turbo may be more restrictive then a fixed vein turbo. Not saying it is but saying all boost numbers are the same is not correct.

I will clear this up a bit for you, seb is saying that you need to think of boost as weight inside the engine. and boost is boost when looked at by weight.
 
How to start.....Well im Daryn, Ive been tuning in Skadi's sled for the past few days now. We started installing the Vi-PEC on thrusday evening...little more friday after work and fired it up sat. After spending about 4 hours sat morning trying to get the Vi-PEC program to load on this stupid Dell laptop we were rollin. Computers fault...nothign to do with Vi-PEC. Loaded the map to the ECU and it fired right up. The sled is a 11 pro with yellow injectors. HM Aerocharger with the water to air inercooler. So the first test was to run it without the boost tube tied to the airbox to make sure we are starting with a good non boost base map. took it out to the field in about 6 inches of snow and ran it. was SUPER impressed in how it felt right off the bat! rode it around for about 5 min to make sure there wasnt any stumbles in the map then came back to the shop to hook up the boost. Fuel was very close...no hickups and after data logging now i can see that its real good!

So now the fun began. I started building the boost map....5D fuel...Started by basicly going to one end of the field and holding it open at different throttle postions for about 100 yards while recording for the data logg. after about 5 hours of doin this on sunday I was pretty dam close to having a spot on 5D boost map. I spent about 2 hours on it today running in the field before the snow melts and now im happy enough with it to take to the hills and do some final tunning.

I have owned a few big mod sleds....run a boosted dragon now....and I can say that I never thought I would use a laptop to tune a mod sled...:face-icon-small-ton As of 5 days ago I had about zero experience with this program and even less with building fuel maps.....last fuel map i built had to do with a 380 main jet and see if that ran better....lol



Ive watched the Vi-PEC threads since they started testing this on the 1000s a few years ago. Im very glad that we have one now on this sled. Its already night and day difference in how the bottom end feels and just the consistency of the throttle. I should have it in the hills this weekend and will have the helmet cam rolling! hope to get the final test done and see how she does runnin in the trees!

With all that....This is a tunner box....you will have to learn data logging and some fuel mapping....BUT Vi-PEC has done a amazing job developing this program that its almost dummy proof. I just built a boost map in less than 8 hours of running the sled at home.... Kinda thought it would of been harder than that!

I'll post after this weekend with how it was in the mountains! :face-icon-small-hap

Oh ya....im doin this at about 2000 feet too.....


So how was it? i looked for your posts but could not find any did it solve all her issues?Ok i see it in another thread.
 
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Has anyone been dynoing/building their sleds in the offseason with the ECU. I'd love to see how the gains and overall power increases are coming along for everyone. Much more proof in actually dynoing the sleds....
 
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