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Skinny Board options are not good

I'm not sure a single flat bar on the outer edge is the way to go. For shedding snow, traction, and strength up and down it is probably fine, but it has little strength side to side. So if you bounce the board off of something, a tool box slides into it in the trailer, or even just pushing the rear of the sled out away from you while you are riding could end up bending them.

The best of both worlds would probably be a triangular extrusion on the edge with one of the points facing up. Not as friendly to make bends in during fabrication though and the traction would probably need to be machined into that edge somehow. Might ice up like some OEM edge grips do? Would also need to find one that had very thick walls like the outer tubes are on existing aftermarket boards. For me the extra rigidity helps with maneuvering the sled and is just as important as snow evacuation or traction.
 
I can assure you that the current board we make for this chassis are as stiff as can be. This new board will be narrower making it stiffer yet. Strength is not a worry of ours on these.

What are your thoughts on angling the boards up a bit; the outer edge of the board is raised a little higher. Is this a possibility? I think Wyo is onto something here; the guy doesn't do things just because. Maybe for the masses not a full 2 inches but 1 - 1.5" would seem to make a good difference and help with traction when the sled is on edge.

Just a thought for discussion. I believe this would really help when the sled is on edge but are there any draw backs for just general riding situations or when jumping/dropping if there is a slight angle to the boards vs flat?
 
boondocker, I meant to say square not flat. But I'm guessing round is the most cost effective way to do this still
 
What are your thoughts on angling the boards up a bit; the outer edge of the board is raised a little higher. Is this a possibility? I think Wyo is onto something here; the guy doesn't do things just because. Maybe for the masses not a full 2 inches but 1 - 1.5" would seem to make a good difference and help with traction when the sled is on edge.

Just a thought for discussion. I believe this would really help when the sled is on edge but are there any draw backs for just general riding situations or when jumping/dropping if there is a slight angle to the boards vs flat?

The Old M chassis boards were angled quite a bit compared to the new chassis, Polaris and Doo are almost square with the tunnel. We're not against doing it, probably not a full 2 inches but a happy medium. Thinking about how it would feel on a sled on edge seems the most comfortable to me by letting you keep your ankle straighter. Having the sled airborne might be a bit odd but probably adaptable.
 
The Old M chassis boards were angled quite a bit compared to the new chassis, Polaris and Doo are almost square with the tunnel. We're not against doing it, probably not a full 2 inches but a happy medium. Thinking about how it would feel on a sled on edge seems the most comfortable to me by letting you keep your ankle straighter. Having the sled airborne might be a bit odd but probably adaptable.

You would think, but I actually know :)

2" is better for everything, But that's just my opinion. I don't jump massive but haven't had a single issue. Remember anyone that wants skinny boards wants them for a reason and most likely don't need a pontoon boat for a landing. I also found the plastics fit better being angled up a bit. Go at least 1" up, if you can't go 2" get as close to it as possible.

Do it right and you will corner the market.

For anyone else in the area that wants the Pro boards I may start fabing mounts and just cutting the boards so its a fairly bolt on setup.
 
1" will probably be pretty easy. 2" would take some work. I agree just try to get it up as far as you can.
 
You would think, but I actually know :)

2" is better for everything, But that's just my opinion. I don't jump massive but haven't had a single issue. Remember anyone that wants skinny boards wants them for a reason and most likely don't need a pontoon boat for a landing. I also found the plastics fit better being angled up a bit. Go at least 1" up, if you can't go 2" get as close to it as possible.

Do it right and you will corner the market.

For anyone else in the area that wants the Pro boards I may start fabing mounts and just cutting the boards so its a fairly bolt on setup.

IM IN!!!!!! I need boards done asap!!! :face-icon-small-hap
 
Those looks great. Only thing I would change is not using a round outer tube, rounds loses usable width and traction. Use a vertical edge for the outside edge is best. But great work I'm sure you will like them
 
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