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Ski-Doo guys, please help

I have a guy that wants to me to put a 136" track on his '96 Formula. Will a 1.75" paddle clear the coolers on it? I wish I had learned more about Ski-Doo's because I feel like a real dumbass asking questions like this.

Also, if anyone has a tunnel and rail extensions for this I would be interested in buying them.
 
Is the 96 the S chassis?, or the older C7 rear suspension chassis? I had a 95 Formula SS 670, I think in 96 the chassis was the same, just going off memory here, I am not 100%, but I believe the max I could put on at the time was a 1.5" track. You can buy drop brackets for the C7 type chassis, which I believe then you could fit the 1.75", but for that particular chassis, they did not seem to work very well, and made the suspension stiff as a board, might have been the particular ones I was using though.
 
I have a guy that wants to me to put a 136" track on his '96 Formula. Will a 1.75" paddle clear the coolers on it? I wish I had learned more about Ski-Doo's because I feel like a real dumbass asking questions like this.

Also, if anyone has a tunnel and rail extensions for this I would be interested in buying them.

If it is the "F'" chassis (like the original summit and formula Z) the problem will be clearance around the drivers in front, I believe the max you can get through there is about 1.5 inch, if it is the "S" chassis you can probably go taller, the 96 summit came with 1.75 inch lugs I believe and the 98 summits (S chassis) had up to 2 inch lugs.
 
If it's 96 FIII then it's the F chassis and 1.5" with stock drivers should work just fine. I'm not sure if there was a big difference between the F and S-2000chassis as far as the bulkhead and tunnel up by the drivers.
 
still have a 96' F111 in the stable. did a d&r and run a 2" track on it,plenty of room in the tunnel,but i don't think you'll have room for anything more than 1.5" around the drivers without a d&r. there are still kits out there i believe to do it and I think wps and hi-performance engineering still offer tunnel extensions
 
A) By many reports on this site - the F and S were the same chassis. (where it counts)

B) I had a '96 F chassis that I put a 1.75 x 136 out of an RMK in with stock 9 tooth drives. Fit fine at the bulkhead.

C) Take out the strips on the cooler - and don't run studs.

D) Mine had the [then new] SC-10 and didn't need anything anywhere. A c-7 could possibly need some help - but I doubt it.

E) The C07 may be OK - but if it has the SC-10 - I HIGHLY recommend going to extroverts! I got real sick of blowing chains doo to ratcheting the track! (Of course the track hasta be punched for it...) If your buddy is a trail rider for the most part - forget the extros...
 
A 96' s-chassis has issues with a 1.75 to put on on a summit you had to turn
around all the rivets in the front bulk head so the heads were in the tunnel
and turn down the drivers, I've owned two 96' summits one is still in use.
Even the Summit X's 97-99' didn't have real 2" tracks from the factory the
center lugs were 1.75" and the outside lugs ony were 2". I wouldn't go thru the trouble just put a good 1.5" crossover track on that formula.
 
F/S-chassis...1.75" track

1) remove snow deflecter (aluminum piece in bulk head, in front of drivers = more room...drill out rivets and carefully remove 2 bolts..remove shield and reinstall 2 bolts - steering post)

2) I would have drivers trued..not necessary but gives a little more room and trued drivers hold the track better...options- 9 tooth anti ratchets, 8 tooth antis and a 2" track...

3) drop the carrier wheels to lowest position (remove them if you lower front arm 1")...use bracket in tunnel to move front arm down...

4) add drop brackets in back (I have a couple options)..or if your sled has a lower set of holes drop to them...

5) tracks USA has rail extensions.. get a tunnel extension from SLP/HPE...

6) regear to 21/43 (just a suggestion--altitude, rider weight may change this spec)...

7) call for clutching info...

8) steering post support bolts (sides of tunnel) need to be turned around..the bolts need to be installedfrom the inside out...

9) replace rear springs to the next stiffer from stock...front shock/rear skid needs a 100 or 115 lb spring set on the softest setting...

I have done prolly 100 long track kits on these older sleds...call for solid info...BJ
 
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