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Should I 174 my Super Chute 1100T?

Matte Murder

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I have a 13 1100T coming with a Super Chute 290hp set up going on. I'm going to buy a KMOD for it. So my question now is whether I just go stock 162 and use the PC track or do a 174 as the cost is basically the same on the skid. Then 15 wide or 16? 2.5 or 3". My gut says go big or stay 162. So 174x16x3. A lot of my close riding ares is steep and heavy timber. I want to learn to ride this sled in the trees as much as I can. Will the 174 just kill it when it's tight? I'm a decent rider but not great so the guys who have gone long let me know what you think. The primary purpose of this sled is to ride the big areas on deep days. Mt Baker, Whistler, Revy etc. I also have a13 Pro coming so that will be the first choice when riding trees too.
 
If you are looking for in the trees agility the 174 will work you like a $2.00 hooker.

Big wide open areas the 174 will be fine, but from my experience riding everything from 150 to 174, the 162 is the JUST RIGHT combo.
 
If you are looking for in the trees agility the 174 will work you like a $2.00 hooker.

Big wide open areas the 174 will be fine, but from my experience riding everything from 150 to 174, the 162 is the JUST RIGHT combo.

Well said Eric, but don't tell Gene - He is doing a 174 to climb those nasty BC Chutes!
 
174

It wouldn't be my first choice personally but to level the playing field with all the 174 Yami stuff it has to be done up here. I'm not saying I am the greatest rider but riding a 16x162 on a MCX Apex in the trees was harder than this will be....and I did that for 4 years.

Besides, it won't end up staying at 290hp......

I am just doing the 2.5" unless I get busy with some front cooler mods.
 
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I have a 13 1100T coming with a Super Chute 290hp set up going on. I'm going to buy a KMOD for it. So my question now is whether I just go stock 162 and use the PC track or do a 174 as the cost is basically the same on the skid. Then 15 wide or 16? 2.5 or 3". My gut says go big or stay 162. So 174x16x3. A lot of my close riding ares is steep and heavy timber. I want to learn to ride this sled in the trees as much as I can. Will the 174 just kill it when it's tight? I'm a decent rider but not great so the guys who have gone long let me know what you think. The primary purpose of this sled is to ride the big areas on deep days. Mt Baker, Whistler, Revy etc. I also have a13 Pro coming so that will be the first choice when riding trees too.

Do the 174 and I'll buy that 2.6 PC from you. It's a win win for both of us!
 
Since you will have a 'flickable' (dam I hate that word) sled, might as well have one that will kill anything and everything in a straight line, 174x3. I had a couple of NA sleds with 174x2.5x16 and really liked the flotation and traction advantage in the slow, tight stuff. Just depends on how you like to ride and what you are used to. A super chute 174x3 will get you to places only god knows about, I hope you have the balls for that Matt;)
 
I think what sounds right for me is to run the stock track(162) on the KMOD skid and see how I like that. If I get a chance to ride one with a 174 or think I can get it to work in the tight stuff I will go that route. I don't really want to just tractor around. Def more balls than skill right now too. I would hate to see my $25,000 machine tumbling down a steep chute disasembling itself all the way to the bottom. The only thing that would change is the rails and track if I go 174 correct.
 
Agreed, a 162 is enough for 95% of riders.

I do know where you can test ride a 174....it might not be 290 thou....:heh:
 
DUDE I ride with you lot and you don't need a 174, The 162 will get you where ever you'll want to go..

Think Wheelies there cool!!
 
I honestly don't notice a whole bunch of difference between a 174 and 162 in the tree's. The 174 definately floats and is better for point and shoot. I've got a Turbo Apex 174 and a Turbo Nytro 162. I do prefer the 174 but cost is always a factor. I am building a Big Chute M11 162 LTD this year as well and staying 162, more for cost than anything, If i wasn't worried about the price tag when it was done i would have gone 174. but if you have the money and have a Pro coming as well anyways, I say go 174!!! Just my.2 cents - Cody
 
I am going to stay 162 with the PC 2.6 and give that a good try first as stated.
1. Is there a big benefit from going 3" at either length? Any downside to a 3" besides it being better to hold down the top speed on a 3?
2.Wonder if 3" 162 might be a "best of both worlds deal"?
3. Again, if I get a KMOD in 162 and want to run the 174 is it just swap out the rails and track? Or is there more to it than that?
 
Come to the dark side....

I honestly don't notice a whole bunch of difference between a 174 and 162 in the tree's. The 174 definately floats and is better for point and shoot. I've got a Turbo Apex 174 and a Turbo Nytro 162. I do prefer the 174 but cost is always a factor. I am building a Big Chute M11 162 LTD this year as well and staying 162, more for cost than anything, If i wasn't worried about the price tag when it was done i would have gone 174. but if you have the money and have a Pro coming as well anyways, I say go 174!!! Just my.2 cents - Cody

Once Cody rides his BC kit there will be no fighting to ride the ol' rear mount mcx, I can tell you that after coming off one for 4 years. Time to replace the TApex with a big SC290, or bigger, and do the 174 build like your talking. You have such a large benchmark to compare to. Love you bring some other Evo models and ride for a couple days with you guys.
 
I looked at that post a couple times before I got it. I think he means that just because you have 12" more track total and 6" more track under the skid doesn't mean that all 6" of that is "on the snow". Or his math is suspect... lol.
 
I got a 174 and when you put it beside a162 there is a row and a half more paddles on the ground on the camo extremes and with a tape from front paddle touching to the last rear touching there is 7" more track
 
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