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mtn_rider08
Well-known member
So, what options do I have to make it stop?
Push turbo G kits starting numbers
- Thread starter mtn_rider08
- Start date
So, what options do I have to make it stop?
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knuts82
Well-known member
Try that and tell me how it works for you.... I have first hand experience with this kit and you will need race gas. As MADMAX stated and I also the turbo is to small and makes too much heat and is causing the detonation.. The turbo in this kit is only a journal bearing 2860 knock off with a .42ar compressor housing. It makes heat.
To make it stop ....first try running mostly race gas to eliminate that factor. You can also try gapping your plugs down to specs although I doubt that's it at 5 lbs of boost. Then tale a rip on it watching your rpms and a/f # at wfo. If that cures it you probably just needed more octane. If it sputtered again at too high rpm(8500+) add more weight. Or maybe you have a fueling issue(watch a/f it should run good if you are around 13-13.5 @ wfo) give that a try and report back.
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M8Driver
New member
Ran 50/50 race gas today. Ended the Det, dissapointed with that fact as I bought a pump gas kit and it will not run with pump gas
. Ken, the owner of Push told me he would sell me his new head design for cost $350. Better than the $10 a gallon for race gas. I just hope if I drop the money for the head it works. But the 50/50 race gas solved the problem and FINALLY!! got it to tune(175 miles)
Numbers in the box as follows- 7000ft- 11000ft
green 1
yellow 1
red 1
Green/blue 5
Yellow/blue 5
Red/blue 8
Fuel PSI- 32
Gave me 1220egt on a long pull
and crazy power
. Ken, the owner of Push told me he would sell me his new head design for cost $350. Better than the $10 a gallon for race gas. I just hope if I drop the money for the head it works. But the 50/50 race gas solved the problem and FINALLY!! got it to tune(175 miles) Numbers in the box as follows- 7000ft- 11000ft
green 1
yellow 1
red 1
Green/blue 5
Yellow/blue 5
Red/blue 8
Fuel PSI- 32
Gave me 1220egt on a long pull
and crazy power
Ran two of these G kits last year. The head will help a little, but won't eliminate the deto. We tried the 07'-09' lower comp head and that didn't work. Then tried having the domes cut out more compression than the 08' head, that didn't work either. I haven't tried the third injector update, but have heard that works. I would also try the timing retard gizmo OVS and boondocker sells. From my experience you will never get that kit to run on straight pump gas without detonation. Turbo is small a makes a lot of heat and increased intake heat will contribute to detonation.
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b1dodge
Well-known member
Madmax is right. The thing we did that helped the most. Remove the small Chinese turbo.....and put a BIGGER Chinese turbo on it
The larger A/R on the exhaust was the ticket. A big problem with that is you cant buy a Chinese turbo with both sides the right A/R. One will be good on the turbine and not on the compressor and visa versa. Most garret kits come with a 64 A/R. Push G kit is a 46 as stated above. That little turbo works fine on the Yammi Push rear mount. On a 800 2S .... Not so much 
The place it was the most problem is on/off throttle, if the charge tube was cool you could make a WOT run but the minute you chopped the loud flipper and mashed it again it would DET and would do this with AFR in the 11.5 range. IMO when the A/R is to tight it backs exhaust up building combustion chamber temp and when you reintroduce fuel it detonates.There are more variable (charge temp, power valves, ignition timing, etc) On a side note we have run them all, and deto is ALWAYS a problem on the HO M8.
The larger A/R on the exhaust was the ticket. A big problem with that is you cant buy a Chinese turbo with both sides the right A/R. One will be good on the turbine and not on the compressor and visa versa. Most garret kits come with a 64 A/R. Push G kit is a 46 as stated above. That little turbo works fine on the Yammi Push rear mount. On a 800 2S .... Not so much The place it was the most problem is on/off throttle, if the charge tube was cool you could make a WOT run but the minute you chopped the loud flipper and mashed it again it would DET and would do this with AFR in the 11.5 range. IMO when the A/R is to tight it backs exhaust up building combustion chamber temp and when you reintroduce fuel it detonates.There are more variable (charge temp, power valves, ignition timing, etc) On a side note we have run them all, and deto is ALWAYS a problem on the HO M8.
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mtn_rider08
Well-known member
So put the the -2 degree timing key in there, and add more race gas?
Any other option
Any other option
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b1dodge
Well-known member
All of that would help, I would consider lowering the compression as well. I dont think I would use a timing key as this is a change that effects low speed throttle response. As Madmax stated there is now a device that pulls timing based on rpm, that way you keep your throttle response but pulling timing in the upper RPM range will help with deto. Call Travis at OVS, he will hook you up.
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mtn_rider08
Well-known member
I already have a -2 degree timing key so I will try that before I buy the timing module from OVS. I will try running more race gas next time I ride as well. Knuts82, definently a big differance in those two.
I was bored so I took apart a Garrett 2860 with .60ar compressor housing to show a comparison of that and a Push G kit compressor housing.
Thanks for posting this, helps guys to understand what we are dealing with.
M
mtn_rider08
Well-known member
Ran a 50/50 mix of fuel today. Didn't deto once. Boondockers timing module is ordered, but wont be here til january sometime.
J
JasonAK
Well-known member
Check the o-rings in the fuel presure regulator housing, they may be damaged. Very likely if you used the BDX FP.
