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P-22 failure on 9R

I was tree riding when all of a sudden the clutch popped off as my engine rpm's went off the chart...no big noise , I wasn't going fast. My sled is a 2020 800 Pro with 4000 miles and a P85 with the new taper (same crank taper as 850). The bolt head sheared off clean exactly like your photo with a darker center. The bolt was loose, so I unscrewed it with my fingers. Got out after a couple hours of hard work with 4 friends. Got a new bolt from dealer 100 kms away and hé said something about the hardening process being too intense, making the bolt brittle. Got back to my dealer and he suspected it broke because it was overtorqued. Anyways, Polaris gave me a new Clutch, sanded down the scuffing marks on crankshaft and that was it, belt still ok. 1000 miles since Clutch was last taken off...No excessive belt side clearance and torqued to 80 lbs...Why?
 
Chadly said:
I made it over 500 miles yesterday and the old P22 didn't explode. Finally got a deep storm. How's my stock clutching sound Rusty??? Am I leaving 30 hp on the table??? ?

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Chad Kamins

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Chadly the clutching sounds lethargic. You are a great rider and y’all would be better with proper clutching. Sounds like there’s something wrong in the primary clutch. The back shift is also quite lazy. In addition, it went from 8300 to 8450 crossing a track which shows clutching can be improved. It should hold rpm better but messing with the P22 is mostly a waste of time and money.

I recommend a p85 primary and secondary clutch from TRS. Buy both from him and he will set them up and send them to you. You would just have to bolt on the clutches with a new belt. Put the stock clutches back on when selling. Then u can transfer the good clutches to your next sled.
It’ll be a totally different sled. You will get a woody.
 
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When I get new clutches from people I scotch bright the taper for the crank...they seem to have some light oil to keep from rusting...If anyone puts a new clutch on they should all be lapped on the crank!!! in reality the clutch should stay on the crank without the clutch bolt!!! if not better lap it til it rolls the motor over by your hands...
 
kanedog said:
For the people that may not know, can you explain how to lap the clutch? Cheers
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to lap a clutch you can buy lapping couplound that automotive stores..They use to lap the Valves on your older car...basically it is fine sand with some lubricant...comes in fine, medium and hard...if you have the ambition use medium and they wipe it off and use fine to finish the job....What it does is takes off all the little imperfections of the clutch and the crank where they meet...makes a better bond with more material bonding..Takes maybe 10 min is all...spin the clutch by hand pressing inward, and once it is lapped the clutch will spin the motor over by hand...wipe off excess.
 
kanedog said:
Post a pic and let the forum experts insult and advise.
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We had one that broke right off exactly where yours cracked. Maybe the puller will break it the rest of the way. Then we pie drilled the fixed sheave and separated it from the steel part on the crank tapper. The ground the steel part down until it popped off the crank.
 
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Ultrasauras said:
We had one that broke right off exactly where yours cracked. Maybe the puller will break it the rest of the way. Then we pie drilled the fixed sheave and separated it from the steel part on the crank tapper. The ground the steel part down until it popped off the crank.
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What do you mean by pie drilled? I did Google that and got some interesting videos. This is
Where I’m at now…

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Chadly said:
Bringing RMSHA into is stupid. Nobody has the time to test new stuff so they're gonna run whatever is old and they already know. I get you here about a lot of them failing but in reality I bet it's less than 5% that are on the snow.
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Everyone that I know here in bc has had a major issue prior to 300 miles. Back off, bolt snap, spider snap, spring, etc including mine at 215
 
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