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P-22 failure on 9R

Did you call the Heli? Post pics, the Shareholders love seeing them. Polaris is busy printing stickers right now.
Chilly keeps telling me these P-22 fails are all fake news.
Is Chilly still in NW MT? He can come help me tomorrow and see it first hand. Can also meet my 5'2" 120lb wife that blew it off. No heli evac service available here.
 
Here's my idea on a new Polaris clutch design, lets call it the N(new)-85:
Build off the existing P-85 design with the following changes
- increase the width of the weight bushing similar to the p-22
- add the metal clips to the base of the weight same as the p-22
- increase the diameter of the buttons
- keep the threaded spider
- keep the jam nut.
- use an oilite bushing on the clutch cover.
- most importantly made in the USA.

I really thing these changes would make the N-85 pretty much indestructible.
 
Never had a P22 apart, but couldn´t they someway taper the part that connects the sheaves. The P-drive seems to hold together with that kind of solution?
 
Never had a P22 apart, but couldn´t they someway taper the part that connects the sheaves. The P-drive seems to hold together with that kind of solution?
Which forces you to pull the entire clutch just to change the spring.... The P-drive is nothing to copy, I've had several of them so I know. The P-drive is a heavy, unnecessarily complicated and expensive P85 clone needing constant service and frequent rebuilds....

How much of the problems are due to the spindle/center part being machined thinner to accommodate the roller bearing the belt rides on at the bottom?
I'm thinking that the material in the clutch taper is so thin that it flexes under load giving the clutch a chance to work itself free.

Keying the clutch to the crank, as it's done on the Rotax 850, could perhaps make it possible to go down in diameter on the crank taper enabling "giving back some material" to the clutch spindle.... if material thickness is the broblem that is.
 
Here's my idea on a new Polaris clutch design, lets call it the N(new)-85:
Build off the existing P-85 design with the following changes
- increase the width of the weight bushing similar to the p-22
- add the metal clips to the base of the weight same as the p-22
- increase the diameter of the buttons
- keep the threaded spider
- keep the jam nut.
- use an oilite bushing on the clutch cover.
- most importantly made in the USA.

I really thing these changes would make the N-85 pretty much indestructible.
I have had the same conversations with Polaris engineers...I agree needs a new wider pocket spider...wider rollers....SS clips for the pins and weights wold be nice too..I have found a better lock nut I will be selling next year...We use a oil light bushing in our Carbon fiber covers..not replaced any yet...they designed the mouse trap, and are trying to make it better...never works.
 
Using a bolt to hold the clutch together, and having to withstand the forces of a shifting clutch is bad engineering. The problem will not cease until
they recapture the spider and outer sheave in a traditional manner.
Have u ever seen a ski-doo primary?
For decades, u remove the bolt and pull the movable sheave off the sled.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
Can you imagine a stop drink recall for poo riders?
What would they do all day in the parking lot?

They’d be begging for 18 gallon fuel tanks and linq mounts for spare.


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I heard yesterday that Polaris is sending out NEW Black clutch bolts. Not heard what the torque spec is but I would bet 150 ft lbs...

Are you talking about 7528304? I received one yesterday and it's still a silver bolt. I think the black bolt is the installation bolt. I also received 2211471 'K-service P-22 Clutch Update'. It includes a black clutch bolt, the black post that plugs into the spider that the spring goes over, and 6 clutch cover bolts. I was told by Polaris that the black primary bolt included in the kit is the installation bolt that you torque to 140ft/lbs before installing 7528304 to 110ft/lbs. I think for 2025 there is yet another new bolt.

My primary bolt backed out a little each day on my last trip (first trip with the new 9R) about 1/4 turn. I was getting the code for EV valve too low in closed position, so stopped by a reputable dealer on the way home since I have zero support locally. They gave it a quick ECU reflash, and EV relearn. I told the tech about the bolt coming loose, and so he used his installation bolt and torqued to 140. His installation bolt was a black bolt also. As soon as I got home that day that's when I ordered a spare bolt and the installation bolt. I'm heading to BC again on Thursday. I bought some valve compound. If the bolt backs out again I'm going to pull the clutch and use your lapping trick. I checked the torque after every ride on my '23 Boost, but it never once moved. The tech said he has over 2000km's on his personal 9R and has had zero issues. They are a busy dealership close to the mountains and he said he's seen very few 9R's come in with issues. He had a look of genuine surprise when I told him about my bolt.
 
The black bolt comes with a new clutch. When my Boost clutch was replaced after it came off the dealer gave me a black bolt with the new clutch. It's just for installation like everyone is stating. Use it to torque to 140 then install silver bolt to 110.
 
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