Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Nytro MTX sec clutch setting?

10,000 elevation, went from 70 to 80, helped slightly, but definantly not good enough
 
THANK YOU!!!!!

knew it would be something simple like that, appreciate it greatly, have the yellow spring coming in tomorrow, and will slap her in htere tomorrow...

Remember that yami sec springs are offset the ends do not line up which is why the cat #s are different 0/1 or 0/2 instead of 0/6 or 1/6

The cat springs are longer and will give more preload to help with a quick backshift...BTW I run @ 4000-8000 ft
 
Here's a little help for you fella's who aren't completely familiar with the numbering on the clutch. My sled had permanant marker marks at the factory settings of 1° (sheave) and 6° (helix) - yours may or may not, but they are marked in the casting as well.

ClutchSettings.gif
 
thanks GREATLY, will be on the hills this afternoon wit hthe new yellow spring installed in the 3/3 position
 
NP Mt. I hope it works out as good for you as it has for me!


rode all day today, was not pulling over 8300 RPM's was NOTICABLY better at back shifting, but was getting a squeak from belt slip when I would come off throttle to stop and then start again??

Does this mean I shoudl go to 70*?

of less weight in primary?

thanks for the help, trying to learn the yamaha clutching,
 
What altitude are you at?

we atart the ride at about 6K and ride most of the day at around 8500-9000, occasionally over 10K


squeak was noticably less than the day before, but still had the squeak a little...day 2 yielded 200 more RPMs roughly 8200 with once over 8400


but then the sled had just tipped the 300 mile point and the 400 mile point too so maybe it is just opening up?


but is the belt slipping to create that noise? is it secondary slipping?

What weights should be in the sled?
 
we atart the ride at about 6K and ride most of the day at around 8500-9000, occasionally over 10K


squeak was noticably less than the day before, but still had the squeak a little...day 2 yielded 200 more RPMs roughly 8200 with once over 8400


but then the sled had just tipped the 300 mile point and the 400 mile point too so maybe it is just opening up?


but is the belt slipping to create that noise? is it secondary slipping?

What weights should be in the sled?

I am the world's most impatient person. That being said, the difference between 300 and 500 miles on my sled was like night and day. Hang in there, it will continue to progress.

Are the RPM's you are posting in powder, or on hardpack?

I'm guessing the squeak you are hearing is because of a glazed belt? After I blew out my first belt, (Red /White Cat - Too much) I made a point of scrubing the new one with a hard bristled brush, and dishwashing detergent. You will be astounded at the amount of mold release compound that will come off of the belt. It goes from a light grey color, to almost black. This compound will cause the belt to glaze quickly, slip, and finally overheat and fail.

Get a spare, clean it, put it in yer tool kit bag, and wait for the inevitable.

Also, verify that the belt is riding in the secondary where it should be - the specs are in yer users manual.
 
I am the world's most impatient person. That being said, the difference between 300 and 500 miles on my sled was like night and day. Hang in there, it will continue to progress.
.

I am at 420 miles after this last weekend...and could tell a difference between day two and day three..was really interesting...bump up of 200+ RPM's

the RPM's on a WOT pull steep incline, with 1 foot of powder...were pegged at 8250-75....and track speed of 45mph....

when hitting harder stuff underneath sled would surge forward, was neat to feel that grab....
 
I didn't mess with my clutching at all until after 800 miles since I kept gaining RPM for that long. Clutching before than will be frustrating as you won't be able to tell if it's the clutching or motor increasing the RPM's. It's also a good idea to swap out primary springs every 1,000 miles, it will make a difference.
 
have yo uplayed with the weights yet? I am down to 63 grams all off the tip mainly off the backside and then matched them for profile. If you havent done this then that is why your chasing the rrr's the tip is to heavy and bringing it down especially in pow. my secondary is at 1/3 i beleive no markings on the sheave side but using the stock position and 3 on the helix had it at 6 and just felt to tight on top. and yes with clutching these nytros will run.

63 grams with the bushing in or without the bushing?
 

sorry guys been busy with work and snow is gone

which bushing are you referring to? 63 grams stock weights no rivets all off the tip I will try to get a pic if I get time someday.

I am running a totally different track and that maybe some of the diff.

any other questions just ask headin to CB if the snow holds.
 
Finally got to do some clutching work.

Took out all the rivets in the primary, stock primary spring, cat yellow secondary at 0/1.

Sled was holding 89-9100 rpms on a hill climb with the secondary spring set at 0/2. Turned it down a little and have rpms at 87-8900.

This is on spring snow, it was slushy and pretty deep. I am not sure what it would be in deeper snow, hopefully close. I noticed when in a climb letting off the throttle then getting back on it, the rpms would go right back to where they were. Definite improvement!

This is for an elevation of 4-5500 feet, temps where around 60, sunny....

Sled is stock except for some suspension work. No exhaust mods.

Before the change I was seeing 79-8000 rpm in the powder and 83-8400 on the hardpack.
 
good to here I would probably go back to your first setup turning 89-91 my motor seems to like it right there and you still have a few rrr's to drop in the deep but most likely this heavy spring snow especially afternoons and rotting is pretty hard on clutching lots of water content there.
 
good to here I would probably go back to your first setup turning 89-91 my motor seems to like it right there and you still have a few rrr's to drop in the deep but most likely this heavy spring snow especially afternoons and rotting is pretty hard on clutching lots of water content there.

Yah, figured I would move it up for trips to Whistler or Baker where the elevation is higher and hopefully snow is deeper.

Mine liked the second setup with a little lower rpms, felt a 'better' to me, but I will wait and see what deeper snow does next year with it. I did notice that the secondary was hotter than the primary with the initial 0/2 spring preload, didn't check with the 0/1 so it doesn't tell you much.......
 
A-c Red/white

Hello

I´am going to put a A-C Red/white secondary spring on my mcx nytro mtx... now on my org spring i have it on 2-6 what will i have it with the red white spring? any body have an idea?

Regards Johan/sweden
 
0 and 1, and get some help on the spring install. it will be a pain in the butt to get it on by yourself. lots more side pressure and preload. i did it by myself on one sled, using tape to hold the secondary closed. it was ghetto, but it worked. still a pain in the butt. ski
 
Premium Features



Back
Top