Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Nytro MTX sec clutch setting?

not sure you want tighten it up any more kinda like going back towards the red white spring. You only want as much side pressure as needed.I watch a ton of cat guys throw a sno pro green in the secondary and tell me it pulls like a banshee outta the hole only to hit a wall in a hundred feet, too much spring pressure and you cant pull thru it to achieve shift out.


Correct me if I am of an obscure thinking. I have always understood the side pressure to be dictated by the "compression" (squish) force of the spring, while backshift is controlled by the "torsional" (twist) force of the spring. Am I all wet here?
 
yes and no they are both still tied together it is still the same spring trying to achieve two different things. First we are all still guessing on compression with this spring because of application, I am not saying I am right but usually I setup my clutching in the secondary as light as I can until it starts building heat and then tighten it up one hole if that makes sense as long as shiftout is good.
 
I understand the spring forces independently working in unison. :D

As for application.... Cat spring in a Yammi! muahahahahahaha! :devil:

My side pressure seems pretty good, as both clutches are running virtually identical temps, and the upshift seems pretty fair as it will pull right next to the limiter on hard pack.

My problem is that I haven't quite achieved the RPM I want in the POW - it seems as though the backshift is slightly weak, while the engine is capable of unimaginable feats on the hardpack. (900 1M Cat eater on the lake)

I dunno, do you have any thoughts? It almost seems more like a weight profile problem is involved as well.
 
have yo uplayed with the weights yet? I am down to 63 grams all off the tip mainly off the backside and then matched them for profile. If you havent done this then that is why your chasing the rrr's the tip is to heavy and bringing it down especially in pow. my secondary is at 1/3 i beleive no markings on the sheave side but using the stock position and 3 on the helix had it at 6 and just felt to tight on top. and yes with clutching these nytros will run.
 
I am hittin' the R's on hard pack though. If I remove the weight from the toe to get the powder R's, will I be over revving on the hard pack?

I'm guessing that the secondary changes with the stock spring are null and void due to the primary weight?

What altitude are you running?

BTW - looking at the sheave straight on, the spring holes are #1, #3 and #2 - in a clockwise rotation with the stock setting being #1. The markings are hard to see in the crappy casting, but if you stare hard enuf you will see them.
 
Last edited:
8500 and up. Yes you will overrev on hardpack to get the revs in pow always will. I pull 9100 from a deadstop and then drops down and steadily pulls up to about 8700 and stays there.
 
Actually the #'s inside the secondary run from 1 to 3 in the counter clock wise direction. Is anyone running the heelclicker 2 speed weight, I have been running that weight all season and really like it, easy to adjust and gives really good belt squeeze all the way through. id recomend it to anyone with the rpm issues, also along with the shockwave adjustable helix it makes a perfect match.
 
Actually the #'s inside the secondary run from 1 to 3 in the counter clock wise direction.

That's what I said... I just said it sdrawkcaB.... er Backwards. Looking at it in a CLOCKWISE rotation it goes 1, 3, 2 or 3, 2, 1 or 2, 1, 3.

You jus es-plain'd it better than me!

|​
 
Has anyone tested the cat yellow spring at lower elevations? Just wondering how it does compared to the stock spring? I think it should do better, might have to give it a try.
 
Any updates with this? You guys running your stock blue brown blue primary spring too? I am going to try the red/white ti secondary spring and drop some mass on the weights to try and get better performance. I am only pulling 8k in the powder and 8600 on the hardpack, using the stock setup with the secondary wound pulled 10 degrees tighter. I just don't want to make a modification, then have a crappy time on the hill with a clutch setup that nails the rev limiter all the time.
 
Any updates with this? You guys running your stock blue brown blue primary spring too? I am going to try the red/white ti secondary spring and drop some mass on the weights to try and get better performance. I am only pulling 8k in the powder and 8600 on the hardpack, using the stock setup with the secondary wound pulled 10 degrees tighter. I just don't want to make a modification, then have a crappy time on the hill with a clutch setup that nails the rev limiter all the time.

I know it stinks, but do 1 thing at a time. I'm still running the stock primary weights and spring, Yellow Cat 2ndary @ 60°.

I was getting about 8900-9000 hard pack and 8500-8600 spring powder @ 9000 ft with this setup. I put on a 2 bros. muffler and set the CO's to +50. Now at 9100-9150 hardpack and 8700-8800 spring powder.

With the CO's at this level, it kinda idles rough - but it'll take a 900 1M cat in the powder and across the lake. I have a little more to go, but I'm happy as heck now!

IMHO the Cat red / white has a bit too much side pressure - I smoked a belt with one, however it may work with a reduction of primary weight.

Just my 1¢ (can't afford 2¢!:D)
 
Just wondering if anyone has tried polaris weights, the seem to have the profile some are talking about beefy middle, less on tip. I got got a set of 64gram, gonna try them out with stock secondary spring and ac red/white. What do you guys think? 6-9k ft.
 
ok, am an idiot....just came off a rev, know that clutch system, but dont know this one...


just ordered the yellow spring..not sure on what is meant by the degrees thing? is that the settings on the 12345 settings?

if so, how do you get to 60 degrees like motopsycho suggests?

got pics?
 
Your helix has holes numbered 0/3/6/9 and the clutch has holes 1/2/3 match them up to make your combo.....just rem. with a cat sec spring you will not want more than 0/1 or 0/2 and ONLY if your spring is sacked0/3
 
Your helix has holes numbered 0/3/6/9 and the clutch has holes 1/2/3 match them up to make your combo.....just rem. with a cat sec spring you will not want more than 0/1 or 0/2 and ONLY if your spring is sacked0/3

cool, how does that match up to the degrees thing? for instance above where he mentions that yellow spring...
 
just loosened my secondary for grins and went horrible dragon 800 was staing with me on pulls course I had no hook up outta the hole think i went 1/3 toady have to look at it. but one hole tighter was pulling alot more speed
 
cool, how does that match up to the degrees thing? for instance above where he mentions that yellow spring...

if you add the #'s together... like 3 on the outer, and 2 on the inner you are at 50° (3+2=5, or 50°)


Or 6 on the outer and 1 on the inner is 70° (Stock setting)

The #'s on the inner can be very hard to read as Yamaha has apparently not updated their casting molds for many years. That is where the above posts will come in handy!

BTW, I have four, 70+ mile rides with the cat yellow @ 60° and it is working like a charm! If you use the red / white I would not exceed 10°, but the yellow will handle a lot more torsion! (degrees of twist)

|
 
Last edited:
Anyone reading this thread, that is running stock clutching (on a stock Nytro), is getting beat up. Stock clutch setup was crap, for the MTX Nytro.

If the clutching changes that much, after break-in, then yamaha should make note of that in the manual, and suggest changes, according to engine mileage. The demo (used) sleds ran like raped apes, the new sleds were dogs.

There were a lot of yami newbies out there, that didn't like their new sleds, because of it.
 
if you add the #'s together... like 3 on the outer, and 2 on the inner you are at 50° (3+2=5, or 50°)


Or 6 on the outer and 1 on the inner is 70° (Stock setting)

The #'s on the inner can be very hard to read as Yamaha has apparently not updated their casting molds for many years. That is where the above posts will come in handy!

BTW, I have four, 70+ mile rides with the cat yellow @ 60° and it is working like a charm! If you use the red / white I would not exceed 10°, but the yellow will handle a lot more torsion! (degrees of twist)

|



THANK YOU!!!!!

knew it would be something simple like that, appreciate it greatly, have the yellow spring coming in tomorrow, and will slap her in htere tomorrow...
 
Could the guys that are posting there setups/results put in their location? Might keep a noob like me from trying a high altitude setup in the lower elevations that I ride in.

Thanks much, hope to do some tuning and testing this weekend.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top