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Nytro MTX sec clutch setting?

There's no point in clutching it 'til you get a few hundred miles on it, it's like chasing a moving target.


I understand your point. But if theres allready a setup that is known to work it seems stupid not to put it in right away. Now fine tuning a sled or starting from scratch yeah hold off a few miles.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTdream
hmmm, that is one way to do it!! have heard mixed reviews on teh supertips as they are thinner than stock and tend to wear stuff...

hmmmmmmmmmmm, first i have heard of this. i will measure the width of the stock arms and the supertips and get back with you. ski

put them side by side with the stockers, the arms are thinner by just a little. but the bosses are the same. so the arm would still roll in the center of the roller, not sure if the theory of more wear could be proved or disproved. but i got em and i am using em. LOL!
ski

yeah same thing on the M sleds, but of mine wore through his rollers...or atleast it created a groove then started wearing the other parts, long story short, new spyder and new rollers and new supertorquers...but they flat work!!! just wear stuff, and got to replace it everyother season..
 
I understand your point. But if theres allready a setup that is known to work it seems stupid not to put it in right away. Now fine tuning a sled or starting from scratch yeah hold off a few miles.

too many variables in where you ride and where we ride...So what works for me is not gonna work for skidooboy as he rides mostly out east...etc.

but when he comes and visits, he will more than lilely beg for the tricks :)
 
There's no point in clutching it 'til you get a few hundred miles on it, it's like chasing a moving target.

I agree to a point....

If I hadn't chased the setup around for the 1st 500 miles, I would have sold the sled. I still believe there is a chip that "burns out" at 500 miles - There is no other explanation for the huge increase in performance when you reach that plateau.

You can fiddle with the clutches initially for better performance, but be aware you will have to keep on top of it for optimal performance, as it changes every ride.
 
Where is everybody at with the clutching these days? On my N/A sled with a pipe 19,40 gearing and a 156 2.5 extreme track I've intalled the Cat yellow spring at 0/1 still with the original 39 helix. I also added a set of Heavy hitters in the primary along with 14.5 rollers.

I started with the weights at around 60 grams and the sled would hold 8100 on a pull usually at about 64 Kph ( 40,41 mph) track speed. I pulled 2.6 grams out of the primary weights and saw an increase to about 8300 rpm but no gain in track speed. The belt is topping out about 1/2" down in the primary so it makes me wonder if I'm getting a full shift out.

I can yard some more weight out of the primary to get some more revs but even pulling out the 2.6 grams made the sled feel less responsive getting on and off the throttle. I've got a straight cut 43 and a straight 47 helix I can try. Any ideas to help save some time? I'm sure I can get the revs up by pulling primary weight but what I really want is the track speed.

I read on here where guys are saying 48 MPH track speed but I'm sure not seeing that, wish I was.

M5
 
I am running all stock on the clutching, except for the secondary - yellow Cat @ 70°.

Running aftermarket can, 19/40 and 162".
 
I am running stock weights no rivets, stock primary spring, stock secondary helix, yellow cat spring at 0/1 and 19-40 gearing. Elevation 4-6k Stock motor, stock exhaust

I am/was (haven't been out yet this year) seeing 44-45 mph track speed. The secondary wasn't holding the belt very good, and I think it was slipping.

M5- how do you like the heavy hitters so far? Would you recommend them?

Seems the stock or at least non boosted nytros can benefit a lot from getting the clutching spot on. I wish someone would do some helix / secondary work, as I think that is where a lot of the benefits can be gained.

As for track speed, keep in mind different tracks when trying to make a comparison. I would think a maverick track and a camo extreme 2.5" would have very different results, especially in snow that has been setup some.
 
M5- how do you like the heavy hitters so far? Would you recommend them?

Seems the stock or at least non boosted nytros can benefit a lot from getting the clutching spot on. I wish someone would do some helix / secondary work, as I think that is where a lot of the benefits can be gained.



I've used the Heavy hitters in quite a few sleds over the years so I had a set lying around and thought I'd try them. They have quite a bit more curve than the stockers, almost anything would. I changed skid, track blah blah blah all at once just like your not supposed to LOL so its hard to say what is causing what change but overall the sled - 70 lbs I would say is 20% better than stock if that makes sense. It climbs better, hanldes better, doesn't hardly get stuck so overall better. As far as the Heavy hitters go I've had good sucess with them but I can't say they are the reason the sled is so much better. All in all the sled is pretty good but I know there is 5% more in there, I can just feel it.

So where is everybodys belt getting to on the primary? Like I said before mine is stopping about 1/2" down maybe a bit more which has to be costing track speed. I was wondering if loosening the secondary spring would allow more track speed and if the sled could actually pull it or if it'll just start to hunt again. Another thought was to try the 43 or 47 helix to force more upshift in combination with more secondary spring twist to help backshift.

Last option and maybe the one I'll try first is just to remove more weight from the primary and see if I can get it to hold 8800 cause the way it is now the backshift is really good but it just needs to pull more.


M5
 
OK here's what I've decided. I removed 3 more grams from the primary so I'm down to 54 grams. The additional curve of the Heavy hitters and the 14.5 rollers need way less weight. I'm going to see what it'll pull then check the clutch temps and go from there.

M5
 
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