Nytro MTX sec clutch setting?
- Thread starter Mn Mtn Man
- Start date
M
MotoPsycho
Well-known member
Come on Nik, ya gotta spend at least $600 bucks experimenting before you buy the $400 cure all!
I would look ahrd at the cat yellow over the red/white gives a little more tuning before you get it to tight. It also weighs a ton less than the pile they gave us. Overall length is longer. Mine has made a huge differance but still tuning. I also shaved 2 grams off the tip to get my revs where I wanted those stock weights have a ton of tip weight. You may look at your secondary sheaves as well mine had the belt sitting well below the top edge pull it and add shims or washers under the three bolts in the back until you get the deflection and height you want. me personally I love hearing just a tad bit of belt whine after a couple hard pulls also shifts out much better.
had two identicle nytro mtx's one with the red white, and one full stock. mine with the red white, sensed the load better, offered no bog after multiple to the bar, let off, to the bar runs, trying to make it bog or suck the belt in the secondary and not give it up, and it never happened. it did make the sled backshift super fast, with power ontap when i wanted it. sometimes too fast, had a couple of close calls on over the bars type backshifts. LOL! even with the engine braking reducer.
my wife was on the stocker, and kept getting the secondary opened by the belt when stopped dead and trying to start up. plus at low speeds you could hear her belt slipping in the secondary (slight squeel). after the second day of this i let her ride my sled, and she wanted the secondary set up i had (glad i brought 2 springs up with us), set hers up the next am, and no belt/bog, secondary issues all day. thinking about trying the 0-2 setting just to see what it does. i ran both sleds at 0-1 and they worked much better than stock. thanks to the sw brothers that helped.
running stock low elevation clutching, high alt (stock) gearing still, have just over 1000 miles on the motor, pulls 87-8800 on trail at 89 mph (on gps). in powder it pulls down a a few hundred or so but nothing to get bent about (still in the meat of the torque). would rather see 89-9000 on trail and the 87-8800 off but, i am happy for now with the low elevation settings. ski
my wife was on the stocker, and kept getting the secondary opened by the belt when stopped dead and trying to start up. plus at low speeds you could hear her belt slipping in the secondary (slight squeel). after the second day of this i let her ride my sled, and she wanted the secondary set up i had (glad i brought 2 springs up with us), set hers up the next am, and no belt/bog, secondary issues all day. thinking about trying the 0-2 setting just to see what it does. i ran both sleds at 0-1 and they worked much better than stock. thanks to the sw brothers that helped.
running stock low elevation clutching, high alt (stock) gearing still, have just over 1000 miles on the motor, pulls 87-8800 on trail at 89 mph (on gps). in powder it pulls down a a few hundred or so but nothing to get bent about (still in the meat of the torque). would rather see 89-9000 on trail and the 87-8800 off but, i am happy for now with the low elevation settings. ski
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MotoPsycho
Well-known member
What elevation were you riding at Skidooboy?
L
Linc
Active member
My take on this is that there is too much tip weight,and the secondary influences the primary too much,and if you try to tighten up the secondary then it over revs,then the tip weight takes over and influences the back shift,I think a weight with more curve and more middle influenced,will produce a more consistant RPM.With the weight so flat it can't move fast enough or far enough to be a true torque sensing weight,,,,great for up shift,,,sh!tty for backshift.
But this is just my opinion.
But this is just my opinion.
M
Mcx Nytro
Well-known member
You got it..not a vey good weight,
also if you go to 14.5 rollers it will hold the belt better....With the sec spring you only want ENOUGH pressure to hold the belt too much and you are going backwards againLinc nails it again tip weight!!!! Any of you guys actually look at them the tip looks like a huge chunk of steel. My primary before changing anything at all was at best 1/2 inch from the top of the primary. I am down to 63 grams and all off the tip! new secondary spring and am within 1/8 inch of the edge of primary now. before grinding it would pull like a banshee and hit a wall, played with the secondary and it fixed a little bit started grinding weights and wall disappeared now it keeps pulling till it runs out of gear.same hill back to back picked up almost 10 mile an hour on speedo.
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Nikolai
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Good to know. I actually put the stock secondary spring back in and like it better than the red/white. I also put a new stock primary spring in since I have 1,500 miles on the sled and that helped.
Are you guys using different profile weights or just grinding the tips of the stock weights.
Are you guys using different profile weights or just grinding the tips of the stock weights.
Can someone post a pic of the weight and tell us where they are grinding? When everyone says the "tip" it makes me think they are grinding the very end of it. If you imagine a straight line through the three holes in the ramp, are you grinding on the very end and perpendicular to this striaght line? I want to try it as my belt is a long ways from the outer edge of the primary.
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lightening800
Well-known member
wieghts
you grind the opposite side that the roller rides on start at about .,25" to .5" and grind to the tip of it, they must be weighed and equal in weight an close in appearance.
you grind the opposite side that the roller rides on start at about .,25" to .5" and grind to the tip of it, they must be weighed and equal in weight an close in appearance.
yup.......just the way you explained it is where i have ground mine down.
I have the Cat red/wht 2ndary spring in today(set at 1/0) & it still won't get to 8700 on the hills. i have the brown/blue primary spring & the weights down to 62grams. i also have the Shockwave helix. a cpl turns out on the Shockwave & it holds 8900 on the trail, but about 7900-8100 in the climbs. i crank it in all the way & it holds 8400ish. i know it's close but it still bounces around. i'm now waiting on the Hartman kit for tomorrow. will post tomorrow night.
T
ground mine the same if yo ulook at the stock weight for a lakc of a better desc it has like a hatchet shaped tip I ground it back to where it was gone and matched all three for profile and weight sitting at 63 grams currently yellow cat in sec have to look at twist dead stop start pops 9100 and then settles in to 8650-8700 no matter what. I think the trakc swap helped alot with the maverick I saw similar rpm drops when in pow.
Correct me if I'm wrong! Sounds like most are grinding an area that is parallel with the three holes then, and not perpendicular. See the attached pic and till me if it's the right idea. Thanks!
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correct
M
MotoPsycho
Well-known member
Alright.
Altitude - 8000-9500 (400 Miles on sled)
Stock Weights - Stock Spring @ 70°, 90°, 100°, 110°
Hard Pack
9250 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
7950 RPM
Conclusion - absolutely STINKS! No noticeable difference in secondary changes.
Stock Weights - AC Red / white @ 10° (0/1)
Hard Pack
8900 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8250 RPM
Conclusion - Much better backshift. Too much side pressure; will not allow for full shift on secondary. Imbalance of clutch pressure between primary and secondary causing excessive primary heat and premature belt failure.
(500 miles on sled)
Stock Weights - AC Yellow @ 40° (1/3)
Hard Pack
9150 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8450 RPM
Conclusion - Acceptable backshift. Fair side pressure; Clutch heats are fairly even.
Stock Weights - AC Yellow @ 70° (2/5)
Hard Pack
9200 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8650 RPM
Conclusion - Better backshift. Fair side pressure; Clutch heats are fairly even.
I will be trying the purple mentioned earlier in this thead soon, but the Cat Yellow seems to work very well. I may crank it up to 90° once just to try it.
Altitude - 8000-9500 (400 Miles on sled)
Stock Weights - Stock Spring @ 70°, 90°, 100°, 110°
Hard Pack
9250 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
7950 RPM
Conclusion - absolutely STINKS! No noticeable difference in secondary changes.
Stock Weights - AC Red / white @ 10° (0/1)
Hard Pack
8900 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8250 RPM
Conclusion - Much better backshift. Too much side pressure; will not allow for full shift on secondary. Imbalance of clutch pressure between primary and secondary causing excessive primary heat and premature belt failure.
(500 miles on sled)
Stock Weights - AC Yellow @ 40° (1/3)
Hard Pack
9150 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8450 RPM
Conclusion - Acceptable backshift. Fair side pressure; Clutch heats are fairly even.
Stock Weights - AC Yellow @ 70° (2/5)
Hard Pack
9200 RPM
2' fluff to moist powder on top of 1' hard crust. 1-2' sugar beneath
8650 RPM
Conclusion - Better backshift. Fair side pressure; Clutch heats are fairly even.
I will be trying the purple mentioned earlier in this thead soon, but the Cat Yellow seems to work very well. I may crank it up to 90° once just to try it.
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not sure you want tighten it up any more kinda like going back towards the red white spring. You only want as much side pressure as needed.I watch a ton of cat guys throw a sno pro green in the secondary and tell me it pulls like a banshee outta the hole only to hit a wall in a hundred feet, too much spring pressure and you cant pull thru it to achieve shift out.
