Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

M1000 Hiccups on the Bottom

08 M1000,…I experienced this issue as well during the first 150 miles or so. I assumed it was a throttle position sensor issue for it seamed only to occur as soon as I got out of the throttle and then immediately back into it again. At 150 miles I installed a SLP pipe, air intake and Pure Logic box. After a half day of tuning the stubble appeared to be gone. I have not experienced it since and now at around 400 miles. So far so good, I quess time will tell. I find the 08’s trench bad, still working on that. Had a 07 M1000 and it ran great, no such issues. There is no question these sleds are rich in the bottom end and mids. Also oil consumption seems excessively high, almost ridiculous. For what it’s worth I included my Pure Logic settings. I ride 7000-10000ft.

Green 1
Yellow (off - flashing fast)
Red 4
Yellow/Blue (Default setting)
Red/Blue 6/7
 
Update for yall...Arctic Cat is overnighting my dealer a new ecm for me to try out. Not sure if it is a reflash or if they're thinking mine might be bad. I should have it by tonight. Saturday will be the earliest I can ride and try it out. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted to see if it helps. Thanks for everyones input...keep them coming and lets figure this out.
 
No backfires here

Mine Backfires through the exhaust almost all the time. Goes off like a flippin bomb and scares the crap out of me!


Mine don't backfire it just lets a big fart :) a few seconds after I've shut her down at times.

I have noticed the hiccup at the bottom after I did the reflash on my 07 nothing bad just a slight pause at times. The newest dealer reflash has not been done yet.

It had a hiccup with the original ECU put only once in a great while and she never did let a fart last season.

New program too rich - maybe:confused: I haven't been able to see how fuel milage has been affected yet but from what I'm seeing at the gas pump I think it has gone down from last year.
 
My 07 M1000 is doing the exact opposite. Right off the trailer runs like a champ until it gets warm. Once it warms up, three to four miles from the truck I can't get full throttle or it just cuts out the whole time I hold it wide open. If I stop and let it cool off for a few minutes it screams again until it warms up again. About the guages!! My speedometer jumps from 0-30 sitting on the trailer and ten milles from the truck the odometer will read as many as 40-45 miles. Dealership is confused!!! When it runs I love it but it doesn't happen very often.
 
last years ECU update seemed alright but the dealership told me that I needed the new update.Now it's the worst sled I've ever owned. 4000 rpm dead spot , face met hood. Sounds to me like the only dealership that knows anything is VOHK!!!
 
Same crap, flat spot at 35 to 40 mph Cat has messed up the computer. They need to figure it out
 
Last edited:
Update for yall...Arctic Cat is overnighting my dealer a new ecm for me to try out. Not sure if it is a reflash or if they're thinking mine might be bad. I should have it by tonight. Saturday will be the earliest I can ride and try it out. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted to see if it helps. Thanks for everyones input...keep them coming and lets figure this out.

Finally got to take the sled out today with the different ecu...So for so good. The sled ran flawlessly all day. I probably only put 45 miles or so on the sled today and will want to try it again before I get too excited but so far I think this is the fix we're all waiting for. As far as the backfire goes I didn't have one of those all day either but I have been trying to let it idle for a little bit before shutting it down so I don't know if its the new ecu or letting it idle thats curing the fart...at least its gone for now. As I said I don't know if the ecu is a different program or what. When I find out I'll post so others know what to tell their dealer.:D:beer;
 
hickup

I am curious what belts guys are using that are exsperiencing the hickup.
I was playing with mine today in the yard and it wouldn't pull any rpm's over 6600 changed plugs same thing pulled it into the shop lifted it up and if i stabbed it it would pull the 7400 a couple of time of this and blew the belt.
The belt i blew up was a carlile extra soft, i put on a AC-046 and it would pull the rpm's in the yard and was crazy fast. I am thinking that the extra soft belt gets to soft and sticky after sitting or a hard pull and causing this hesitation.
 
I am curious what belts guys are using that are exsperiencing the hickup.
I was playing with mine today in the yard and it wouldn't pull any rpm's over 6600 changed plugs same thing pulled it into the shop lifted it up and if i stabbed it it would pull the 7400 a couple of time of this and blew the belt.
The belt i blew up was a carlile extra soft, i put on a AC-046 and it would pull the rpm's in the yard and was crazy fast. I am thinking that the extra soft belt gets to soft and sticky after sitting or a hard pull and causing this hesitation.

046v is the ticket as far as ive heard...Heard their having problems with the new belt 060 i think. My dealer swapped the 046 in place of my 060 factory belt and now this is the spare. I personally didn't notice much of a difference between the two.
 
After swapping ECU's I ran the sled in the over the hood powder and the sled idled down 4 or 5 times like it was going to stall. Basically the same thing it was doing. I took it back to the dealer and we swapped the O2 Sensor and I rode it all day in the powder and it never idled down once or stalled on me.

I am convinced the problem is snow dust that works its way into the intake and then turns into water vapor which the engine had a hard time assimilating with this sensitive 02 sensor. The rental sled I had while mine was in the shop with this problem ran like crap in the powder but at least it ran. Now my sled runs at least as good as this other one. I guess the snow dust issue will be mine to solve which is ok I guess as long as I can keep from going over the bars 5-6 times a ride when it bogs.

As far as the belt.........
I am running an 060 and my dealer mentioned some guys where running an 046. I exploded (most amazing belt destruction I have ever seen and I have been riding since 1969) an 060 in about 250 miles and so far the second $150 is doing well.

I will check the APV's as I seem to be developing that flat spot near the top now that I am getting to the 400 mile mark. Thanks for the info.

Is it my imagination or is this thing pretty slow to backshift? what have you guys done to deal with that. Hard to mess with the spring with that encapsulated secondary? and I dont want to do a whole bunch of clutch work when it is stock and then do it all over when I start throwing the mods at it. Can you shim that secondary spring?
 
My sled was a couple hundred shy on R's on a hard pull... Installed the 046, and gained the rpm I was looking for... At first I thought it was going to overrev, but once the belt heated up and broke in, it worked great. The backshift is a little slow on ocasion, but usually picks up quickly and has not been an issue.
I never really gave the 060 a chance as the first time we had enough snow to climb, my Rs were down, so I imidiately switched to the 046.
One thing I have noticed is that the 046 does not like to be babied... It seems to slip more at low r's, and if I put around I can smell it.
It also seems to rev a little more at low speeds than the 060... As soon as the 60 engaged, you were moving, and seemd not to slip where the 46 revs a little more at slower speeds, but I am at about 500 miles. 470 on the 46 and it looks great and still performs.
I am happy with my stock clutching and the 46, but I have a shift asist bearing on order hoping it will help the backshift a little.
I wonder if my bog/hesitation is not as prominant because of the harder compound belt?
 
my 07 m1000 was doing the same thing until i got the 2008-01-03 ecu reflash done now it's ok
 
had similar problems on my 08, farting and a low end stumble. I added an intake, Y and can, the first day it seemed to run just as bad, but after that it has run great no matter what conditions. Does the ecu adjust in a way I don't understand? What would cause it to run poor (same as stock) then run well after that?
 
Between a rock...........

TTT

Just trying to get more dialog going on this important issue. My sled is in the shop at this moment, and will be getting worked on this next week. ECU reflash was in the cards but????????

Just confused as what to do.

What are you Colorado boys finding?? Are you happy with the current reflash?/
 
Had the 08 reflash done on my 07.

Not a good move.

Now I have the infamous 4000rpm dead spot, didn't have it before.

I am also getting the 4 blink maintenance light followed by the 2 blink.

I also am still having the problem with a long climb if I get out of it, it wants to die. Like I hit the kill switch.

Still loading up going down hill.

Still smoking like a hopped up Cummins.

So all around I think it is headed back to the dealer tomorrow.

This really kills a 10,000 machine. Someone has to get this figured out.

Thunder
 
Having same issues with a turbo 08 1000 Sno-Pro. First day on new sled ran perfect, installed turbo day after and once installed went through many problems with install instructions, poor components and the stock ECu programs. Stock program was worst problem. found out that new 08 program installed at factory cuts fuel off when off throttle. On a turbo that means engine dies (why I now have new hood on order), managed to tune that problem out with B/D box. OVS box is harder as it only works from 4500 rpm up while B/D box ranges from idle up and had to add fuel on all low settings to get rid of off throttle bog or die, it is lean, not rich. Sled ran best ever today but had midrange too lean and burnt mag piston on the trail, still ran rest of day and just finished changing out piston and richening up mid settings. Wish Cat would inform public of changes they make to programs that affect those of us who can't leave well enough alone. LOL!
 
ECU Issues

I have a 08 M1000 SP, I just purchased after 15 years riding Polaris, still own a 900 RMK that I would like to drive off a cliff, bad support and engineering on poo's part. I drove up to our cabin @ 1000-2200 the temp was @ +10F to +5F my first ride and it never ran on both cylinders for 45-50 miles mag side plugs drenched. The next day I drove back to the cat shop altitude 450 and we looked it over and didn't find much, it was around 16F to 18F and it seem to run on two cylinders. I went back to the cabin and it had dropped temp again around 8F to 4F the sled again was flooding the mag side would not run.
After the weekend I brought the sled back to the dealer and we tested the fuel pressure and found it towards the high end 45.5 psi. We installed a adjustable fuel regulator and dropped the fuel pressure to 42.9-42.8psi. I took the sled for a rip and it ran good. Now the test was to bring it back to the cabin and try it out at a higher elevation the temp was around 10F and altitude the same as above 1000-2200 ran great for three days then the temp dropped below 5f to -2f sled ran on one cylinder again mag side fouled.
Brought into dealer and he has a twin to mine his was doing the same thing at cold temps. Cat was notified and scheduled a trip to Alaska to do some testing on our sleds, since they said they didn't here of these issues in the 48's they showed up on the 14th and have been testing @ close to sea level and 3500', I am @ work on the north slope right now so I have heard just a little bit. My sled was hooked up with test equipment and ran at the above altitudes but the cold snap is gone, needless to say the found them to be rich. I was also told the only other place this problem has been noticed was Japan!! just notified in the last couple of day's on that one. My dealer is installing a O2 sensor on his sled and they are going out today and do some more testing. Another thing that has not been mentioned is the different kinds of refining of gasoline, here in AK we have a lot more light ends in our fuel (butanes, hexanes etc) in the states not as much light ends are found and in some places ethanol is blended. I would think this is a important thing when building fuel curves in the ECU?? I am new to the fuel inj thing, but from what I have seen is that there are four main things the ECU is looking at TPS, air temp, exhaust temp, and barometric pressure to adjust how long the fuel injectors pulse. So if the 87 octane in AK is burning @ a higher egt then the 87 in the 48's this would explain the ecu pulsing the injectors to long at low to mid and flooding the cylinders and along with air temp and fuel pressure it was magnified even further, that’s why when we dropped the fuel pressure it ran better, but when the air temp dropped to around 5 and below it fell back on its face. I am just thinking out loud here, so if I have got off track I do not mind constructive criticism, just trying to put the puzzle together and it looks like you guy's in the 48's are having some similar problems. I have to give it to my dealer and to cat, never received this kind of service with Polarass.
 
Last edited:
Premium Features



Back
Top