KTM300XC Build Project
- Thread starter mtn-doo
- Start date
Don't mean to hi-jack the thread, but I have a question about the clutch. My roomate installed one of these on his 2013 KTM 250sx and the clutch pull got noticeably stiffer compared to stock. Are the 300's stiffer than the 250's at the lever when they are stock? I wasn't there to watch when he installed it to see if he got everything right, but he ran it all summer without anything being damaged so i assume it is installed correctly.
M
I cannot accurately answer that for you. Sorry. I would "assume" which is always a mistake, that the 250 clutch pull is softer than the 300. When you pull the lever, you are pushing the throw-out against the spring to force the pressure plate away from your stack. The 250 would likely have a softer spring. The 300 has a typical smooth, over a "hump" pull. Very nice, two fingers.
M
@ rush44, the belleville 280 has the same physical measurements as the stock 300 belleville spring. I spoke with Idaho Joe at Rekluse about installing the 280 in the 300. It will add pressure plate force and increase holding power like you would prefer on a high HP bike. I know the 300 at peak HP and TQ when dumping the clutch in a "tree well" will need a ton of spring pressure. Equal to, if not more, than a stock 450F. I will install on this build and report. Negatives = none, positives = firm "lock-up", no slip. hmmmm? I will report back.
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M
Confirmation! Just spoke with Adam at Slavens Racing, KTM. He said that is a little trick they do. 
The Belleville 280 in the KTM 300. Drop in fit. Everything works as stock but more pressure plate pressure on your stack. Solid lock up's with WOT dumps in any gear! music to my ears! WOT dumps are necessary!!! ha!
The Belleville 280 in the KTM 300. Drop in fit. Everything works as stock but more pressure plate pressure on your stack. Solid lock up's with WOT dumps in any gear! music to my ears! WOT dumps are necessary!!! ha!
P
what kind of fuel are you going to run?
If the cyls were ported and the ex went up at all and you still have 180psi you're getting fairly substantial. esp too bc bikes on snow get held wide open alot more than on dirt.
If the cyls were ported and the ex went up at all and you still have 180psi you're getting fairly substantial. esp too bc bikes on snow get held wide open alot more than on dirt.
M
Thanks, yes, it's about the limit for pump gas. Here at 2700 ft, no knock, no ping with 2oz Maxima High Test per gallon. I hope to be 91 premium at 4000 and above. My customer rides in an area higher than I am here. Summer temps will drive his density altitude up as well, for summer riding. I am trying to get him close... at 91 premium pump gas. Long pulls at WOT under a full load will tell me. I think I will be okay. I will let you know.
p.s., breaking in the Rekluse yesterday was quite a thrill. This thing is a ripper. Playing in 3rd gear to keep the front tire on the ground. Amazing bike
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R
Yep, Rekluse said they feel the Core EXP should work fine in a high HP environment, but they didn't have much testing to prove their theory. They are running a few Core EXP's this winter in turbo bikes to be able to stand behind their claim. It's the main reason a lot of Rekluse project turbos are getting Z-Start Pros simply because they can confirm the extra clamping force.
Good to hear about the 280 washer.... sounds like that's another check mark for the Core EXP!
Found this video on the rekluse install. Hopefully this is the same as you installed on this bike.
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M
Yes, that bike is a 350F, but the same DDS clutch.
M
Slavens Racing and Rekluse sent a couple goodies for the 300XC. The 280psi Belleville spring from Slavens and some Heavy wedges from Rekluse. Also Joe sent me some new springs to try. My goal in tuning this clutch is to have a slightly "higher" engagement than the three options currently available. Silver, Blue, and Red springs and soft, medium and heavy. Those do not have any effect in the clutch stack, pressure or holding power. They are engagement RPM only. Joe sent me a 4th set as a test. A new "Gold" spring. It gave me engagement like a primary clutch on a sled. Roll on the throttle and as the engine gets agressive, the clutch engages. Very ideal for the snow-bike application. The heavy wedges are for applying "heavy" pressure to your stack. The Belleville 280 spring is on the other side of the wedge pressure. Heavy wedges and a 280 Belleville will have huge hold or "lock up". Again perfect for the snow bike application. A test and tune on dirt was WOW!!!
R
The day after a big powder ride and this cold weather my motor was frozen up .
had to put a heater on it for 2 hours to break lose.pulled the pipe dumped it out and im pretty sur the bottom end was full , kick it over a million times to clear out.
bad deal any ideas on this or how to keep this from happening?
got past my snow filter some how ,,
I guess I need a heated shop !
had to put a heater on it for 2 hours to break lose.pulled the pipe dumped it out and im pretty sur the bottom end was full , kick it over a million times to clear out.
bad deal any ideas on this or how to keep this from happening?
got past my snow filter some how ,,
I guess I need a heated shop !
R
Was your bottom end full of a watery oil mix?
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
R
T
Having an issue with my Rekluse. Clutch lever is rock hard. I tried pushing the throw out bearing in and that worked for a few pumps but then it went stiff again. Any other suggestions? This happen to anyone else with a 300? Also, the Rekluse is a Z-Start Pro.
M
A couple of things. Your 2 stroke has no engine oil like a 4 stroke. Your crank case is bone dry. The only way to inspect it is to pull the cylinder and split the case. There is a separate "isolated" chamber that holds trans fluid for your trans and clutch only. If you got water in the vent line to your trans and it froze over night, you could get frozen up. Also, after you washed it, you could have gotten water behind the reed block feeding the crank? In all the years of snowmobiling, never have seen that. Your bike motor is the same as all the snowmobile engines. They run in the coldest, deepest pow all day, no problem? You don't have engine oil or the issues associated with it. I would definitely bring it in a warm shop after a deep pow day, pull your seat and plastics and dry everything out. I think it was a combo of things, cold pow day, pressure washer, frozen outside. Never have seen that before. I would dry everything out and you should be fine.
M
After some more thinking I had another possibility. If you had a leak in your boot or the filter not fitting square It would be possible to suck a lot of fine pow into your case. With your case being empty and dry, it is a large empty chamber, the snow could accumulate as water. It acts as an inertial separator. Most would get driven up through the transfer ports but any remaining water would have frozen over night, in your crank....? Interesting....hmmm
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Last year at Hawkfest, Tom had the same issue with a KX 500. Used a torch on engine to heat it up to get it to turn over. He had the boondockers intake on his bike. Before going he had put in new trans oil and piston and rings. Wonder what is causing this?
M
I think there is moisture accumulating in the case on those cold pow days and freezes over night? My KX500 last year, I ran a snowmobile pre-filter just like we have done on sleds for ever, and I had zero issues? I even had to leave it outside in Wyoming on a demo one night. 9200 ft elevation at the lodge and below zero temp over night. It started on the 3rd kick?
The 1000 degree temps in the combustion chamber only inches away from an "ice cold" case, full of cold air, will definitely accumulate water. I guess in an extreme case there is enough to freeze it up overnight? Interesting
The 1000 degree temps in the combustion chamber only inches away from an "ice cold" case, full of cold air, will definitely accumulate water. I guess in an extreme case there is enough to freeze it up overnight? Interesting
I'm on a 4t, but I have a temp gauge installed and always try to leave the bike running before turning it off. My thought is to try and get all the fluids up to temperature and rid my oil of gas and water. Maybe that idea would help avoid this ktmsickle again?
It really is amazing how low the engine temperature stays if your not paying attention.
It really is amazing how low the engine temperature stays if your not paying attention.