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KTM300XC Build Project

Oh yea I was going to recommend these too they are awesome in the snow with big boots can be kinda wide in the dirt when the rocks get crazy but I like em.

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Lol. I would of sent you my P3 pipe guard. I just threw my PC Platinum 2 in the garbage lol. Never again !

That P3 is nice stuff eh. Best pipe guard made in carbon bar none. Makes all others look like potato chips. Spendy though. Almost as much as a pipe

I think that stat is gonna be to cold in the deep stuff. Im bettin you will have a Bob in a 70C soon. Can u not use the housing from the XCW ? I know a 70 will fit the 55 housing from a 2010 300XCW.

Tried that. Too big... dang? I will re-look? Thanks for the confirmation

Sorry you hate your PC pipe. LOL :) The fit was perfect, like a glove, and Dirt Rider, Slevens Racing, KTM North America all agree, it is the "best" performing pipe you can buy for the 300. The motor and clutch are together. Broke in the clutch today. It is amazing. Revs out like a 250 and pulls like a mule. I have two choices riding it, let off the gas or go over backwards! :)
 
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My stat was off to the side in the back of the right rad.

The PC may of made a hp more than the a gnarly but the FMF makes better power in the single track. My buddies with the Husa 300s have one of each jetted exactly the same. The FMF Gnarly is way better in the single track.

My one friend also sold the PC2 and went back to a FMF. Maybe in snowbike it may be different if you need the top end. The other thing is the PC2 seems like it isnt as strong. Mine folded first hit. Snowbike world may be different and prob isnt as big of a deal.

Ill take my chance with the 500 LOL. Just got word my NEW FMF Fatty will be shipped this week. Cant wait to see it ! Havent been available for some time !!
 
Fun bike hu mtn doo ...I just ordered the pc2 pipe, i felt like there was a little to be had on the top end that the narly fmf was lacking , when the smarty and pc pipe come in should fill in the soft spots .
My E start didnt work all day, going to charge it this week and see if that help since it was died from setting for weeks, but one kick and was off running never had any problems or inconsistency at all.cant say that for the other 4 strokes with me lol,(, can I say that on here) haha.
as for fuel , burned 3.5 gals in 5 hrs onf ripping ,

summitboy.....I do feel the same way about the pipes the gnarly is the best (dirt pipe) for its low end and durability hands down! But in the snow im with mtn doo on needing the over rev that you cant get with the gnarly ?? I was thinking that leaving the fmf on for botom end would be the ticket but seems like I was always on the mid and top.
 
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What battery do u run ? I change all my 300s to a YTZ7S battery. My elec starts have never had issues period. Those 4 and 5s are junk imo.

In the top end there isnt really much of a difference between the 2 pipes. Your talking a couple hp and a few tq if that. I have nothing good to say about PC. Everything from construction to customer service isnt very good imho.

FMF on the other hand, amazing company ! In the 500 world PC is gutless LOL. When ur trying to squeeze every ounce out of the 300 for top end i understand. Really shows the need for a dedicated snowbike lol. There is no perfect snowbike for dual use. However if i weighed 130lbs id be riding a 300 !! Its my favorite bike in the world ! Dirt that is lol
 
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Its the stock battery 4s, looking for a good replacement for a fair price, you say ytz7s is good ? Ill ebay it now,
just adding the smart carb will be the best improvement for me now, the pipes probably wont be night and day just thought id try it and see.thanks mtn doo lol are you a car salesman ?? Kidding,,
At 165 lbs (me) the 300 sits on top and moves , I will allways ride 300s in the mountains trail riding, but next year ill have just a snow bike on a cr/kx 500 af with all the goods, was thanking turbo 4s but thats the reason I came over to snow biking is to get away from 300 hp yamaha and working on them all week to ride.
 
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The 7S batt is the same size as the 5 batt. The stock 300 batt box is a little shorter than the taller 450 box. I just buy that box and jam a big Yuasa YTZ7S in it. Bolts right up and then you have big power turning the starter. Less starter issues !

You will have to look up the part number for the slightly taller box. My 300 is 2010. Not sure if it has changed. You will have to do a little digging on KTMTalk to make sure the parts still all work. Seems like all the 2013 have same box. If you send me a pic of your box with batt in it i might be able to tell you. The shorter batteries get held in by a lower step. The 450SX, 500, and 300XC all have the same part number.
 
That's what I did too. Bought the 7S battery and the bigger batt box. Also got a new bendix and rebuilt the starter but now it's seized completely. Think I'll just try a whole new starter motor this time around. Curious how much luck you guys are having with the 300 starter in winter because currently I am having none.
 
The 7S batt is the same size as the 5 batt. The stock 300 batt box is a little shorter than the taller 450 box. I just buy that box and jam a big Yuasa YTZ7S in it. Bolts right up and then you have big power turning the starter. Less starter issues !

You will have to look up the part number for the slightly taller box. My 300 is 2010. Not sure if it has changed. You will have to do a little digging on KTMTalk to make sure the parts still all work. Seems like all the 2013 have same box. If you send me a pic of your box with batt in it i might be able to tell you. The shorter batteries get held in by a lower step. The 450SX, 500, and 300XC all have the same part number.

Good info. I have my hand on the YTZ7S for all battery operated bikes. It seems to be the #1 performer. I have two of the Stingers for testing and a full return warranty if I'm not happy. It cranks the 180 psi 300 great right now, but colder temps will be the test? If there is any slow crank what so ever, they will be returned and the YTZ7S will be going in.
 
This is not a high dollar build. A basic 450F will cost you tipple in cost for equivalent mods. The basic "must do" list is fairly short and inexpensive. People need to realise they do not need a state-of-the-art bike to go every where and have the most fun on snow they've ever had. There are several factors to consider. "one bike, summer and winter"? only a dedicated "snow bike", to be the "hero" when you ride? etc... This build is for a guy who wants a super fun and capable snow bike AND an awesome summer bike. The 300 class 2 stroke, the 300XCW/XC specifically, is the #1 summer do all bike and the #1 winning cross country/enduro bike you can buy. That pretty well covers your all around summer bike. To prep it for snow, the basic "must do" list is fairly short and very inexpensive compared to a 4 stroke. A smart carb for BOTH summer and winter, a must do. $375. Intake mods for snow. Air box and intake $70 + $150 and you are ready to ride. No hassle, oil changes, tuners, etc... If you want the best built custom 300 it will cost more of course, depending on mod's and ergo items you prefer. All the custom goodies add up, but a no hassle good performing 2 stroke is the easiest and "no hassle", no maintenance, gas and go option.

I think MTN-DOO's must haves are more then what you asked were "absolutely necessary". I ran my stock '07 300 XCW with carb heater and intake filter/MTN-DOO mod just fine last year. All above are nice, but not needed to have a good time, right MTN-DOO? Are the $375 smart carbs on the list above even available to the general public yet? Sign me up when they are.
 
I think MTN-DOO's must haves are more then what you asked were "absolutely necessary". I ran my stock '07 300 XCW with carb heater and intake filter/MTN-DOO mod just fine last year. All above are nice, but not needed to have a good time, right MTN-DOO? Are the $375 smart carbs on the list above even available to the general public yet? Sign me up when they are.

You are absolutely right. Jetting is easy and quick. Stock carb, jacket and heat is really all you need to go have ton's of fun! I got spoiled so bad with the Smart Carb, the $375 is always going to be an automatic for my builds, but you are correct. Stock PWK36 jetted works very well. Corey is sending cast 38's now. I should be receiving soon?
 
Super cool install yesterday. A Rekluse Core EXP. This unit is DDS style specific. Amazing combo of KTM Hydraulic clutch technology and Rekluse. The Basket, pressure plate, steels, pressure plate and adjustments and all different. The most amazing part is the pressure plate/throw-out free play gain adjustment. It is an "externally" adjustable slave cylinder that pushes the throw-out from the shifter side. A 4mm allen wrench makes free play gain adjustments so fast and easy! amazing cool stuff....
Sorry about the blurry pic, hand held on "super macro" is nearly impossible.

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Can you pull the clutch easy with the EXP ? I heard Zstart has better clutch feel. What you say ?
 
Can you pull the clutch easy with the EXP ? I heard Zstart has better clutch feel. What you say ?

Yes, The clutch feel is stock. That is a great point of the EXP.

“The Rekluse Core EXP Auto-Clutch Is Magical”
– Dirt Bike Magazine

Core EXP just got better – Now with EXP 2.0 Technology™ – Breakthrough in Response, Performance & Tunability! Rekluse Core EXP – Core as in “Hard-Core,” is our award winning premier product. It is the #1 choice for performance minded riders that insist on perfect clutch lever feel that also demand the highest performance and durability available.

The customer will be riding this as his "go to" summer bike, so the EXP will be super super nice for him next summer.
 
I pulled a post I made from another thread about the Z-Start vs. Core EXP issue. It applies here (DDS style clutch) for the 300 as well. The person originally asked which clutch is best for a turbo on a 450 SXF and wanted to go with the Z-Start:

"For the 13 KTM 450 you cannot use a Z-Start Pro with the DDS (Damped Diaphragm Steel) clutch system our bikes use. The Belleville washer does not allow for the Z-Start to work.

The Z-Start Pro has a higher full clamping force (closer to a full clutch lockout when engaged) than the Core EXP which is why it is more favorable in high HP environments. However, Rekluse feels that the Core EXP with the heavy wedges and springs should be able to handle the HP the Boondocker Turbo would put out. The Core EXP is more desirable since it mimics a stock clutch feel on the lever and you can feather the clutch should you need to. The Z-Start Pro is more of an In or Out clutch feel.... you are either in it or not with a very small window of play. The Core EXP has a little more adjustability than the Z-Start, but that point is nearly moot since for our application we don't need as much adjustable settings as a tight woods dirt rider.

For the turbo the Z-Start has an edge, but I wouldn't look past ordering the Core EXP at all. Call up Rekluse, tell them your situation, and they will work with you to make you happy. They have the best support of almost any company I've ever dealt with. Super awesome company."

I have nothing but good things to say about the Core EXP 2.0. In my mind it is simply the BEST mod you can do to a bike for the summer and a damn nice mod to have in the winter.
 
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