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Jaws Gen5 Turbo Pipe

One guy in our group did the pipe and y pipe, he had to add 4g. He says its got more lag now but mid range and wot defiantly pull harder
its a trade off with an "exhaust system"; IF you make more power at the original power peak, or, make more power at higher than the original power peak rpm, THEN the engine torque between 3500~6500 rpms will lower.
If a lag has been introduced, then the engine torque has lowered in the lag rpm range.

  • You either have to take the primary clutch spring and lower the finish force to leave somewhat of the previous pivot mass, or,
  • You have to raise the engagement speed higher, or,
  • You have to use a pdrive ramp with a less aggressive start angle [going from a 994 to a 761, or, a 761 to a 903] or,
  • You have to increase the start force of the secondary clutch spring, or
...a combination of 2 or more of these changes.
 
its a trade off with an "exhaust system"; IF you make more power at the original power peak, or, make more power at higher than the original power peak rpm, THEN the engine torque between 3500~6500 rpms will lower.
If a lag has been introduced, then the engine torque has lowered in the lag rpm range.

  • You either have to take the primary clutch spring and lower the finish force to leave somewhat of the previous pivot mass, or,
  • You have to raise the engagement speed higher, or,
  • You have to use a pdrive ramp with a less aggressive start angle [going from a 994 to a 761, or, a 761 to a 903] or,
  • You have to increase the start force of the secondary clutch spring, or
...a combination of 2 or more of these changes.
Sure is nice having you here on the Forums!
 
its a trade off with an "exhaust system"; IF you make more power at the original power peak, or, make more power at higher than the original power peak rpm, THEN the engine torque between 3500~6500 rpms will lower.
If a lag has been introduced, then the engine torque has lowered in the lag rpm range.

  • You either have to take the primary clutch spring and lower the finish force to leave somewhat of the previous pivot mass, or,
  • You have to raise the engagement speed higher, or,
  • You have to use a pdrive ramp with a less aggressive start angle [going from a 994 to a 761, or, a 761 to a 903] or,
  • You have to increase the start force of the secondary clutch spring, or
...a combination of 2 or more of these changes.

If the guy had to add 5g pivot weight to bring his RPMs down and another route is to lower the finishing rate on the primary spring. Is there a formula to know how much you need to lower that finishing rate to keep the same amount of pivot weight you had before adding the 5grams?


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Pdrive springs aren’t quite like the tra springs… you will need to drop 100 pounds I bet for 5 grams which isn’t always possible.. but drop 50 and get rid of a couple grams might be possible.


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If the guy had to add 5g pivot weight to bring his RPMs down and another route is to lower the finishing rate on the primary spring. Is there a formula to know how much you need to lower that finishing rate to keep the same amount of pivot weight you had before adding the 5grams?
Dont be quick to parakeet "but he added X grams, so it must be this-or-that power".
Question: Just because a person gives hearsay of "X or Y" grams more, is that sufficient evidence to be convinced that was the total performance answer?

If they use 3 grams more, did they try 4 grams
If they use 4 grams more, did they try 5 grams
If they use 5 grams more, did they try 6 grams...etc?
If "no" to any of those questions, then why not?
What was the problems they run into before they settled on "X" or "Y" grams?

Ok so now the engine supposedly goes to 8000 rpms full throttle with X-g's over stock; but what is the backshift strength like?
What is the bottom end strength like? Is there a lag?
What is the engagement speed before and after the added grams?
Same or different clicker position?

***What was the track speed before and what is the track speed now?***

What if the track speed they are getting is by virtue of excessive belt slip?
What if the sled is geared to go 76mph [21-53 stock gearing], and the track speed is 58mph, but the belt shows it wiped a felt marker strip off at the 69 mph position at 3/8 of an inch from the rim of the primary clutch? 69mph - 58mph = 11mph.
Where did the 11mph track speed go?

ski-doo 850 clutch kit ibackshift SW.jpg
Youtube time 916

You added 3, 4, 5, 6, 7...etc grams now? Ok, so! Not trying to be rude by saying "so". What was the performance gain in track speed from before?

Do the felt marker trick, go for a ride, full pull. What was the track speed you got? We'll compare it to the maximum speed the sled is geared for, and now we'll look at how much felt pen marker was wiped off. That will tell us how much track speed you're getting by virtue of excessive belt slip.

***you did 58mph track speed, but your drive belt shows it was at the 69mph position***.
You just did the felt marker trick, drove up that hill, got 58mph track speed, turned around, come down the hill and stopped. The felt marker is wiped off right to 3/8" of an inch from the rim of the primary. Where did that 11mph go?

And then we can tell what that added 3, 4, 5, 6, 7...etc grams is doing now.
 
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I have 4 IBackshift kits on the shelf in central Wyoming if anyone is looking. Turbo kits.
 
1500-4500' one jaws pipe and tune, one just pipe package. the just pipe sled has a blown up engine.

I figured it was a fueling issue, no tune on the sled I seen.


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