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Is a Vector worth boosting/modding for a Mtn sled?

I have an '05 Mtn Vector, completely stock. After riding some boosted Apex's and Nytro's the past two years, I am sold on having a boosted 4 stroke. Is the Vector worth the money to boost, lightweight, etc.? I own it free and clear, it has been a back up sled and the one my wife used sporadically, has low miles on it. I don't want to throw the money at it and not have a good performing mountain sled. Looking for 240+HP, great rideability (sidehilling, carving, boondocking, climbing - not steep) and reliability. I loved the Apex, the Nytro took a few rides to get somewhat used to it, still a little sketchy for me. Thanks in advance for the input.
 
i had the same thing an 05 vector and wanted boost. It will all depend if you can get a reliable kit for cheap. I decided to sell the sled and buy an apex. At the time it made sense but now you can pick up so much good used parts i probably would go with the vector.

If you stick with the vector you will neeed
tunnel extension
better track
might as well change the drivers
i had the wildchild rider forward which i loved
 
For your type of riding that you mentioned I think boosting the vector would be a good way to go. Especially if you could find a used kit. The vector just doesn't make the same power on top end a a Apex/rx1, but if your not into climbing the steepest deepest chutes that wouldn't matter.
 
Biggest advantage for the Apex and Nytro? Fuel injection!!

Boner - what would the big difference be between carbs and EFI and boost? Do you still have to worry about jetting or does the control box reslove most of that? Is it harder to keep tuned and reliable? Is throttle chop a problem? This question will certainly show my ignorance, but can a carbed sled be converted to EFI? What else should I know for consideration in making this decision? Thanks again for the info ya'all.
 
Here is the add incase you are not a member on Ty;

"kit was purchased new in 2005. Excellent shape. Kit includes primary and secondary clutches, NGK Wideband 02, digital Boost/EGT gage, K&N intake, modified carb's, TurboXS BOV, tunnel dump exhaust, external adjustable waste gate control, quick exhaust dump on waste gate. The carbs have been modified to allow you to adjust the needle jet position. The intake has been modified so that it's intake filter is out from under the seat. The secondary has a Shockwave adjustable helix. This setup is tuned and clutched has excellent throttle response and and should just bolt on with little or no "tuning" req'd. Original OEM Installation Manual included. $3500.00 USD PM or email woodsrider@cableone.net"
 
A new front mount kit from Powderlites or Alpine would be sweet:D I guess it all comes down to how much you want to spend and what you are looking for in a kit.
 
With fuel injection, once it's dialed in with your box you're done. Always starts ( I had a RX-1 that you had to cross your fingers if you had it on it's side or rolled it over in the powder ) Plus having the efi monitered by the computer. you can modify a carbed unit to efi but very expensive. You can pick up a real good used Apex for around $6000.00 if you shop around. There are some real good Apexes with boost added already starting around $10,500
 
could ya elaborate a little more? was it because it flooded?

My old trx1 did the same thing. The problem is if you flip it on it's side or over and it dies and you cant turn the key off the fuel pump is still on and is still pumping fuel into the carbs and it floods. Don't be scared to hold it wot and turn it over for about 3+ min while it stumbles, farts, girgles, and eventually it will start. Even though you may need a new starter and or battery after it's done;)
 
My old trx1 did the same thing. The problem is if you flip it on it's side or over and it dies and you cant turn the key off the fuel pump is still on and is still pumping fuel into the carbs and it floods. Don't be scared to hold it wot and turn it over for about 3+ min while it stumbles, farts, girgles, and eventually it will start. Even though you may need a new starter and or battery after it's done;)

Even with the key off it would flood. Just cross your finger there was enough juice to start it:(
 
Just for starters-there is two things that will 95% cure all those problems!! #1-Wire the fuel pump into(or add another relay) the same circuit as the headlight.(on and off with the engine,not the ign.switch) and#2 add a shutoff into the hose that pressurize the float bowls.When you WANT to roll the sled to get unstuck,just turn the valve closed,roll the sled,and NO fuel from the bowls into the intake(intercooler). BUT if you roll the sled by accident, you have to crank,crank,crank,It will start with the throttle open after a bit,not that bad!!! cv
 
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