Installation - Burandt’s HD Powder Trac Boards

[devomx302]

polaris tunnel stiffener with burandt boards?

I was looking to put these on my '12 pro but had the polaris tunnel stiffeners put on by the dealer. I was wondering what my options were if i would be able to incorporate the tunnel stiffeners with the burandt board or if i would need to do something else?

 

[Bulldog]

Don't need them I just installed them on my 12 and they are way stronger then the stock boards..Very impressed..

 

[devomx302]

i just didn't want to have to take the tunnel reinforcements off and still have the rivet holes in the side of my tunnel.

 

[skibreeze]

I was looking to put these on my '12 pro but had the polaris tunnel stiffeners put on by the dealer. I was wondering what my options were if i would be able to incorporate the tunnel stiffeners with the burandt board or if i would need to do something else?

You could just do a tunnel wrap on the sides like I have.

This is just a cabon fiber wrap

This one I got from Madsigntist here on the forum, to match the rest of my 12.

 

[Covelli44]

The only color option I have seen is black. Do they make any other choices? And I am guessing the paint is powder coated?

 

[FCR112]

You got it Covelli44, only black and powder coated.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Rivets

Does the fact that they came with the burnished brass looking steel rivets mean that they aren't available in black so I shouldn't bother looking?

Did the Burandt Boards come with steel rivets to add strength when the ones I drilled out of the originals were all aluminum?

Can I install the set closest to the tunnel set from above if I use a small SS washer to add some flange pulling power on the tunnel aluminum? I'm assuming that is why they installed them from below at the factory? I'd prefer the look of the finished flange topside.

Thanks.

 

[Covelli44]

^X2. Just ordered a set. Good questions, I am curious also.

 

[LoudHandle]

Does the fact that they came with the burnished brass looking steel rivets mean that they aren't available in black so I shouldn't bother looking?

If they are the ones I am thinking of black is an option, always has been. Used to run about $20 for a bag of fifty.

Did the Burandt Boards come with steel rivets to add strength when the ones I drilled out of the originals were all aluminum?

Good question, according to The Lord videos you really do not need any fasteners. They could have been solely there to keep it in position while curing.


Can I install the set closest to the tunnel set from above if I use a small SS washer to add some flange pulling power on the tunnel aluminum? I'm assuming that is why they installed them from below at the factory? I'd prefer the look of the finished flange topside.

That is your choice, I personally would rather have the flange down for minimal drag and the expanded end up for additional traction and not need the weight of the dozen SS washers. It looks cleaner from the top your way, but everything hanging down below the plane of the running board is going to be dragging snow.

Just my $0.02

 

[skibreeze]

The rivet holes on the Burandt boards are recessed along the tunnel, so I installed the rivets from the bottom, giving the rivet head to reinforce the grip the tunnel better. The butt end doesn't protrude above the board.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Does the fact that they came with the burnished brass looking steel rivets mean that they aren't available in black so I shouldn't bother looking?

If they are the ones I am thinking of black is an option, always has been. Used to run about $20 for a bag of fifty.

Did the Burandt Boards come with steel rivets to add strength when the ones I drilled out of the originals were all aluminum?

Good question, according to The Lord videos you really do not need any fasteners. They could have been solely there to keep it in position while curing.


Can I install the set closest to the tunnel set from above if I use a small SS washer to add some flange pulling power on the tunnel aluminum? I'm assuming that is why they installed them from below at the factory? I'd prefer the look of the finished flange topside.

That is your choice, I personally would rather have the flange down for minimal drag and the expanded end up for additional traction and not need the weight of the dozen SS washers. It looks cleaner from the top your way, but everything hanging down below the plane of the running board is going to be dragging snow.

Just my $0.02

Thanks. The Fastenal web site doesn't seem to have black steel 3/16" with about a 1/2" reach.

I see what you mean about traction and rubbing in the snow though.

If I do the Lords I need to sand some of the powdercoat off. If the factory was good with aluminum rivets and these boards are using steel, it should be plenty strong for my riding.

 

[LoudHandle]

Thanks. The Fastenal web site doesn't seem to have black steel 3/16" with about a 1/2" reach.

I always got them from my Polaris dealer. I don't remember the part # for the various reach lengths and colors but the parts guy should be able to set you up in short order.

 

[whitemeat]

just installed my burandts boards on my 12 pro. It went really well and look great. Used a air saw to cut off the old boards and that made the job easy. About 4 hrs start to finish

 

[Brutis20]

When istalling on the '11 or '12's did you guys have to cut some of the plastic just below the foot rest so the opening on the new boards in front would be open? Looks to me that the plastic covers the front one off.

 

[Bulldog]

No cutting of any plastic..

 

[SpokaneRMK]

NO cutting of any plastic, i did the install in about two hours, very easy. I used a 4" cut off wheel with an electric grinder, it almost took longer to tape on the little pattern than it did to cut the board off, the new boards are very sturdy.

 

[Brutis20]

See the pic, I dont really have to cut plastic but wouldnt mind it open so the snow doesn't build. Or does this look different from everyone elses? Its not boleted up but there would be about a 3/8" gap between this opening and the plastic. Let me know what you guys seen.

 

[sledr900]

Yes!

When istalling on the '11 or '12's did you guys have to cut some of the plastic just below the foot rest so the opening on the new boards in front would be open? Looks to me that the plastic covers the front one off.

If you want the front hole open on the 2011 & 2012 you will have to trim some of the belly pan plastic off. The 2013 belly pans are already trimmed back where the front opening is.

I installed the boards on my 2012 two days ago. I am amazed at how solid they feel compared to the stock boards. On my Burandt Boards I never noticed any evidence of glue where the raw aluminum mounts are attached to the black powdercoated boards. Anyone else notice this?

 

[Brutis20]

Ok, thanks, thats what I figured.

 

[SpokaneRMK]

My Bad, guess you do have to trim the belly pan a little, never noticed it when i put it back together.

And on my boards there is plenty of lords(almost sloppy)where the natural meets the powder.