Installation - Burandt’s HD Powder Trac Boards
- Thread starter sledhead1125
- Start date
B
braapin
Well-known member
I have been thinking about getting a set of these Burandt boards for my '12 pro. But I already have the polaris black tunnel stiffeners installed. I am going to have to remove them in order to install these boards. I will then have rivet holes in my tunnel. I could always put some rivets back in to plug the holes? Just wondering if it might not be worth it, and if those rivet holes will become a weak point/stress point on the tunnel. Wondering if anybody else has dealt with this.
Those small holes aren't going to hurt you one bit(heck you are using the tunnel sides to "support" the bottom right now). You can install blank rivets. I would recommend these rivets, they work slick and have many benefits. Ill let them tell you
http://www.adprivet.com/ultimate_rivets.html
And the new boards are so much better than the 12 even with the support bracket. It isn't even a comparison.
http://www.adprivet.com/ultimate_rivets.html
And the new boards are so much better than the 12 even with the support bracket. It isn't even a comparison.
I think those are dimensions for what to cut out not the actual running board dimension. I'm looking for the actual dimensions of the running boards like in the picture I posted.
Those small holes aren't going to hurt you one bit(heck you are using the tunnel sides to "support" the bottom right now). You can install blank rivets. I would recommend these rivets, they work slick and have many benefits. Ill let them tell you
http://www.adprivet.com/ultimate_rivets.html
And the new boards are so much better than the 12 even with the support bracket. It isn't even a comparison.
Thanks for the link on these rivets. Informative video. I just bought $65 worth of rivets for my sled build. Cool that they come in different colors, too.
AMERICAN MADE, TOO !!!
What are you guys using to cut your boards off with
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
Shouldn't have gave those dims the doo and cat guys find out they fit their sled no one will get boards be like air frames all over again
F
FCR112
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Moderator slash,
Is it now ok to post wanted and for sale here in the Performance and Modifications section of the forum?
This used to be a big no no around here. Here's a link to the announcement from a former moderator. It is still the very top line of the Pro-Ride chassis.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/announcement.php?f=215
There is the specific Swapmeet section, Parts/Acessories, WTB area.
If things have changed around here maybe it is time to remove that message. ...and probably time for me to stop busting people's balls about this strategy of wanted/for sale.
Thanks for all of the help guys. I finally picked my boards up Saturday. Hoping to put them on this weekend.
Think Snow!
Think Snow!
Looking for stock '13 boards
Looking for 2013 Pro running board take offs. I'll pay you for them and send you my FedEx number to ship them with. Looking for a couple of sets.
FCR112-- I don't think I'm in violation of previous noted observation since I didn't start a new thread, merely letting those who may have gone for the HD option know that I'd like to take the sets off their hands.
Thanks,
Murph
Looking for 2013 Pro running board take offs. I'll pay you for them and send you my FedEx number to ship them with. Looking for a couple of sets.
FCR112-- I don't think I'm in violation of previous noted observation since I didn't start a new thread, merely letting those who may have gone for the HD option know that I'd like to take the sets off their hands.
Thanks,
Murph
I think a wipe with alcohol, let it evaporate, and a little light scuffing and you should be good to glue.
I disagree, if you are trying to bond metal, the powdercoat needs to be gone.
I think that little measures in the pre-season can lead to better performanc during.
I agree with Rick! as long as the powder-coat application was prepped really well on the boards in the first place. The Acrylic adhesive WILL bond tenaciously to the powder-coat.
AND....
Adhesive is as strong as what you are sticking it to, which relies on the actual bond of the powder to the board.
To for me... sanding through the p-coat will only take a few more minutes... then scuff the tunnel area to be bonded with green scotchbrite... a good wipe drill tunnel for rivets and "dry fit" the board. Get everything laid out so that you can bond and rivet the board in place in 5 minutes (406 is has 6 minutes of working time only).
Geoff, I hear you on the "just run it" mentality... but I've seen the way you guys pound on these sleds... Drops, tail walks with turbos and other high demand situations.
Bonding the board to the tunnel will further improve strength in the assembly the same way as it does in other components that are bonded in this chassis... No way around it... rather than having stress risers radiating from the rivet locations the whole board and tunnel will be "unitized" in the bonding process and made stronger... the thick extrusion will help to reinforce the tunnel and vice versa. IMO... the mfg process of the sled/tunnel assembly-line would probably take too much of an investment for this kind of upgrade with the results being realized by only a small percentage of more extreme riders or those involved in collisions (which, IMO, represents most of the members of this forum). A little extra measure for some extra strength.
Just like you run the stronger rails for jumping for that "extra measure", and people install tunnel braces... or Polaris upgraded the 2012's to bonding the chaincases (compared to the un bonded ones on the 2011's)... This can make the chassis a bit stronger.
PLUS... it is easily removed if you need to replace them.
.
I agree with Rick! as long as the powder-coat application was prepped really well on the boards in the first place. The Acrylic adhesive WILL bond tenaciously to the powder-coat.
AND....
Adhesive is as strong as what you are sticking it to, which relies on the actual bond of the powder to the board.
To for me... sanding through the p-coat will only take a few more minutes... then scuff the tunnel area to be bonded with green scotchbrite... a good wipe drill tunnel for rivets and "dry fit" the board. Get everything laid out so that you can bond and rivet the board in place in 5 minutes (406 is has 6 minutes of working time only).
Just put them on without bonding matt, you will be just fine.
Geoff, I hear you on the "just run it" mentality... but I've seen the way you guys pound on these sleds... Drops, tail walks with turbos and other high demand situations.
Bonding the board to the tunnel will further improve strength in the assembly the same way as it does in other components that are bonded in this chassis... No way around it... rather than having stress risers radiating from the rivet locations the whole board and tunnel will be "unitized" in the bonding process and made stronger... the thick extrusion will help to reinforce the tunnel and vice versa. IMO... the mfg process of the sled/tunnel assembly-line would probably take too much of an investment for this kind of upgrade with the results being realized by only a small percentage of more extreme riders or those involved in collisions (which, IMO, represents most of the members of this forum). A little extra measure for some extra strength.
Just like you run the stronger rails for jumping for that "extra measure", and people install tunnel braces... or Polaris upgraded the 2012's to bonding the chaincases (compared to the un bonded ones on the 2011's)... This can make the chassis a bit stronger.
PLUS... it is easily removed if you need to replace them.
.
Mountainhorse loves the Lords!
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