$249 as listed on Polaris web site.
Pure Polaris (PolarisPGACatalog)
Pure Polaris (PolarisPGACatalog)
Installation - Burandt’s HD Powder Trac Boards
- Thread starter sledhead1125
- Start date
F
FCR112
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Here's the kit in it's entirety. $249.99 Retail
4 pages of instructions with 14 pictures
Application:
Model Year '11 Pro RMK, Base RMK, Assault RMK
Model Year '12 All 155, 163 RMK's only
Model Year '13 All 155, 163 RMK's only
No cutting required for the 13's
Tools Required: (Per the Instructions
)
T40 Torx, Ratchet, File, 3/16 Drill Bit, Scissor, Air/Hand Sander, Drill, Scotch Tape, Rivet Gun, 10mm socket, Air Saw
Crossmembers are just shy of 1"
4 pages of instructions with 14 pictures
Application:
Model Year '11 Pro RMK, Base RMK, Assault RMK
Model Year '12 All 155, 163 RMK's only
Model Year '13 All 155, 163 RMK's only
No cutting required for the 13's
Tools Required: (Per the Instructions
) T40 Torx, Ratchet, File, 3/16 Drill Bit, Scissor, Air/Hand Sander, Drill, Scotch Tape, Rivet Gun, 10mm socket, Air Saw
Crossmembers are just shy of 1"
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If you are installing the Burandt boards on a 13s it is much easier correct. Just remove the rivets and hardware mounting the stock boards and replace? No cutting etc?
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FCR112
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It doesn't specify exact instructions other than saying "it is not required to cut the running board for MY 13"... You may have to unsecure (by drilling out some rivets) both the L and R bottom "fenders" ie belly pan plastic pieces for clearance at the front of the board.
The directions are primarily geared at the '11 and '12's. After holding these right up to the new sled IMO the 13's will be remarkably easy to swap.
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Thanks FCR....
I think I'll still be bonding these on for extra measure of durability and connection with the tunnel..hope it helps out!!
I think I'll still be bonding these on for extra measure of durability and connection with the tunnel..hope it helps out!!
MH, will you remove the paint on the edge that you are bonding? Or will the adhesive bond just as well to the powdercoated surface?
For any of you that are doing the upgrade to the Burandt boards on the 2013 PRO RMK. I will pay for the Burandt boards if you will send me the stock uncoated ones. Thanks!
How big is the diffrence between these and the stock ´13s?
Just put them on without bonding matt, you will be just fine.
I only asked for a reference for others. With tunnel reinforcements from Timbersled, I'm not worried one bit about needing extra strength.
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FCR112
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Seems like it would be stronger to me too so long as you apply it in a way so the Lord's can squish evenly between the aluminum pieces before setting up
and not create high points where the side of the tunnel would be stressed unevenly while being used... if that makes any sense.
I'm still a rookie with the stuff so maybe it's not a big issue.
Looks like the factory drills "relief" holes, possibly so the Lord's can flow between the parts? And as you can see they still like a rivet here and there too.
underside front of extrusion
underside rear of extrusion
Additionally they are over 3/16" thick with the powdercoating
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I'll mark it and sand the pc off in that area.
Phatty.. as hard as you and Matt pound your sleds...extra cant hurt.. and the 406 is so easy to work with and inexpensive.... well... just sayin.
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I read the Polaris release on these and all it states is "Wider cross Members for extreme riding"
So I couldn't find an actuall number on how much stronger, keep looking.http://facebook link
The extrusion is the same... but the cutouts allow for wider cross bars as Dartos said!
I have a standing offer for them if you look back a few posts. As I won't use powder coated aluminum. I'll hydrophobic hard anodize the stock boards for my future builds.
T
Techsledder
New member
I'll bite... why won't you use powder coated aluminum?
I don't trust the oven operator to not exceed 300 degrees. At that temperature and above the heat treatment is negated and the aluminum looses 1/2 it's strength. Also there is a significant weight penalty to powder coat as well as fitment issues (due to the fact it is a built up surface coating). While it may last most of you for the few years you own the sled it does fail and start peeling and then really looks shi-ty.
Whereas Anodizing has a negligible weight addition as well as the build up is less than one thousandth of an inch. The rest of the anodizing is below the original parts surface. Hydrophobic anodizing is a chemical process that alters the naturally occuring oxides. Changing water molecules to Teflon molecules in the pores and on the surface of the aluminum leaving no place for water, snow, and ice to get a toe hold to build up. Hard anodizing leaves the surface nearly diamond hard. Anodizing utilizes no heat and is a electrically charged chemical bath. With Hydrophobic Hard Anodizing you get the synergistic effects of all of them. Lightyears better than powder coat at the same price point. At least that is how it was explained to me.
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