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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I do too!
Installation - Burandt’s HD Powder Trac Boards
- Thread starter sledhead1125
- Start date
I do too!
You Betcha!! Praise the Lords!! lol
But then again... so does Ferrari, Mercedes, Dodge, GM and a slew of others.
Easy to apply, removable, relatively inexpensive and able to tolerate less than perfect surface prep that can happen in many manufacturing and secondary bonding situations.
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But then again... so does Ferrari, Mercedes, Dodge, GM and a slew of others.
Easy to apply, removable, relatively inexpensive and able to tolerate less than perfect surface prep that can happen in many manufacturing and secondary bonding situations.
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SB, I rarely assume that... hence the recommendation to sand to metal prior to bonding.
These extrusions are probably done with a low-temp pow coat to preserve the heat treat of the aluminum (unless Polaris or their supplier "engineers" the bake-cycle-time into the heat-treating schedule)...
From what I've learned over the years, Low temp pows require better part prep which may or may not be able to maintained in the course of the mfg process of these parts. Also, most low temp pows are not as tenacious in their bond to the substrate and are less abrasion resistant than high-temp pows.
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Same width as the 2012 boards.
I am Lords fearing. I can just see myself getting halfway done and running into a problem and then the whole thing setting up on me with a mistake. I rivet the heck out of my boards and never look back. Also, if/when I need to replace or repair a board it's a 15 minute operation rather than a giant hassle. I get where you are coming from MH but I just don't see the advantage of any more strength in an already simple process that has more strength than is needed.
I hear ya Matt... I've seen people not take the time to do a good layout... and dry fit BEFORE bonding... weather that is on a car, boat, model airplane, sled etc...Same goes for painting. If you are not ready to go with a good idea of how to be methodical in application/assembly , then this is probably not for you.
For me, IMO, I'd rather see any loads from kinking/bending/flexing be distributed along the entire, approx 3ft, length of the running-board/tunnel junction than the 5 or 7 individual rivet points that is standard.
At a minimum... I'd much rather install the boards with the rivet heads on the bottom than on the top... makes tearing through the .063" tunnel tabs more difficult.
As for removal... a heat gun and about 15 min is all you would need.
We'll see on the strength part as the more extreme riders on here "failure" test their sleds throughout this first year of this board system... especially on consumer installed upgrades on 11/12 sleds.
For me, IMO, I'd rather see any loads from kinking/bending/flexing be distributed along the entire, approx 3ft, length of the running-board/tunnel junction than the 5 or 7 individual rivet points that is standard.
At a minimum... I'd much rather install the boards with the rivet heads on the bottom than on the top... makes tearing through the .063" tunnel tabs more difficult.
As for removal... a heat gun and about 15 min is all you would need.
We'll see on the strength part as the more extreme riders on here "failure" test their sleds throughout this first year of this board system... especially on consumer installed upgrades on 11/12 sleds.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I'm with MH on this one. I had two PRO's in my shop last year, mine with Better Boards and Lords, and one with Better Boards, just riveted. When you stood on the board and put your weight on it, I felt more flex in the non Lords board. I don't think you would ever have a failure of most installations without the glue, but the rigidity and therefore stress distribution is improved with the adhesive. IMHO. There is not much more prep involved with the Lords application, but worth it if you want to insure the best mating of surfaces.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I hear ya, but I would just becuase I think it's just a little better approach, that doesn't mean it's a problem if you do not.
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FCR112
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Regarding the Lords, what do you need exactly to get started with the stuff?
As in what you need to get a job such as this done...
I searched some of the other threads and see the links.
Did some shopping too but there are multiple options of applicators and mixing tips and the "notched dinguses" that push through the gun and press the lords out of the container and into the mixing tips. It sucks getting 3/4 of what you need to get a job done
You guys are making a good arguement for it's use on the boards. I need to get some in the garage for other projects as well. Thanks
As in what you need to get a job such as this done...
I searched some of the other threads and see the links.
Did some shopping too but there are multiple options of applicators and mixing tips and the "notched dinguses" that push through the gun and press the lords out of the container and into the mixing tips. It sucks getting 3/4 of what you need to get a job done
You guys are making a good arguement for it's use on the boards. I need to get some in the garage for other projects as well. Thanks
I took off my Better Boards and installed the Burandt boards today, and the powder coat had come loose on the sides in several places. Confirming that I would never try to bond the boards with the powder coat still on them. The PC is the weak point for sure. The new boards look awesome!
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
The previous post tell you what you need, but basically, the $40.00 gun and several mixing tips, and the glue. You can go with the glass bead stuff, but I don't think you need it and they don't sell it in the small tubes. I find the non glass bead stuff to work just fine, and it comes in the small tubes. It's pretty easy to work with and after the first purchase you have the gun. They also sell some great plastic fusor that works great for hood repairs.
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FCR112
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Which post are you referring to?
Does the $40 gun require you to purchase the piece that pushes on the back of the container to force the lords into the mixing tip?
I did not, you could always bond them at a later date if it bothered you.
Good to meet you.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
Here is the thread. You need the gun, the 4:1 plunger, mixing tips and the glue.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236325&highlight=lord
The Adhesive is not at all intimidating to apply.
listen to what they say about rivets and adhesive at 6:50 into the last youtube above.
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