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Y?
Y does the primary change?
GS6
Primary is very close to the same, just way better.
Secondary is a lot different.
I tried the heavy spring to see if the 48 would work, you always want the steepest helix you can run, but will also backshift and hold rpm within 1-200 rpm.
This is with 2.45 gears (calculated as final with 7t)
The part I find odd is the 48 with stiff spring is the most responsive across the board and still pulls hard even with rpm drop. The 40* holds the best backshift and works great if your never over 40mph over that it doesn't want to shift up very fast. You would think the 43 would still hold rpm. But I lost some of the upshift and it still had to much rpm fluctuation.
With stock (2.86) and 2.54 gears it will pull the 43 great. Which makes sense, but my 14 had 2.42 gears with 8t driver and had a broad shift range, only thing lacking was high speed shift was slow.
When I ran stock gears with cat weights 66g and 120/285 spring and 43* it pulled great. Noticeably more performance than a 48* with 64g weights and far more throttle response.
Then I added mds weights 120/285 with 3.6g in the tip, 43* stock 180/240 secondary spring and that again was a noticeable jump. All compared to feel and other similar sleds.
We setup a 17 the same way and it is better than the stock setup.
It ran pretty even with all the other sleds with pipes, my sled, etc... biggest difference was the new track being stiff hooked up better than our broke in tracks.
To me, I should be able to get similar performance and shift as my 14. In fact it should be better.
I'm going to switch a few more things, I'll compare the cat weights against the mds some more just as an indicator. Might even put the stock skid back in for testing purposes against the 17.
Change gearing around, possibly a 8t driver. Every setup I've ran had a good spot, just need to get it ask put together.
Maybe it's not possible to get it all but I can tell there is more.
The other weird thing is that no matter what I have for gearing and clutching the top speed hasn't changed at all, which is really strange to me.
I think your trying to run way to much secondary spring I run 3-5000 feet in AK so I'm making more hp but it doesnt make sense that you need that much spring. controlling the shift with a multi angle helix and weights is way more efficient than a giant spring your motor has to overcome on the upshift.
It will not pull the 48 with less spring and tall gears, with 2.54 gears it will pull the 43 but doesn't pull add hard as the taller 2.45 gears, it won't pull the 43 with tall gears, so going to a stiffer secondary to get backshift was a possibility. It will pull a 40 with 2.45 gears but won't shift up after 40mph worth a darn. Honestly it feels the best with the stiff spring and 48. Even with bad backshift. So you tell me.
I'm not just dealing with theory here, I've ran about 15 different setups. Got any facts to back up your thinking?
Wondering if it had something to do with tuning from the ecu
are you running the same spring with all the helixes? It not pulling the 48 with a soft spring and tall gears makes since, its shifting out the driven clutch to fast and cant overcome the tall gears once the clutch is in high gear. why not try a multi angle from stm? a 48/38 or a 48/36 that would definitely improve your back shift and you could run less finish rate on your spring less, in "theory" upshift and backshift would improve. Stm claims that the new team helix angles are 5° steeper than the equivalent 2012-2015 so if you were running a 36° in previous years a 41° team secondary would be an equivalent set up.
8100 to 8150 is peak rpm regardless of your altitude. Clutching your sled accordingly to achieve peak rpm begins with using the correct flyweights ... Around here @ 8000 to 1000 feet 66 grams +/- for deep snow & 68 grams +/- hard pack spring snow is spot on perfect on my 2014 M8.
MDS flyweights are to "heavy " 78 grams empty if I remember and don't run consistent from one day to the next ...Simple rule of thumb to follow if your sled struggles to make peak rpm your weights are to "heavy" .... If your sled is over revving your weights are to "lite".
DPG
Testing with tons of different setups in deep pow at elevation is what shows ME results. If I was to just change the weights and leave the rest stock then I wouldn't have been crushing a stock clutched 2016 M8000 yesterday that was pulling 8000rpm+.
8100 to 8150 is peak rpm regardless of your altitude. Clutching your sled accordingly to achieve peak rpm begins with using the correct flyweights ... Around here @ 8000 to 1000 feet 66 grams +/- for deep snow & 68 grams +/- hard pack spring snow is spot on perfect on my 2014 M8.
MDS flyweights are to "heavy " 78 grams empty if I remember and don't run consistent from one day to the next ...Simple rule of thumb to follow if your sled struggles to make peak rpm your weights are to "heavy" .... If your sled is over revving your weights are to "lite".
DPG