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G4 BELT EATER! [2017 Ski Doo 850 Rev G4 clutching/belt fix?] Belt Issues

Went out yesterday, my 165 3" revs at 8100 on trail, buddies is at 8300 plus 154 3" he's got more burnt belts than me, seems more issue in shorter tracks but for 100 miles mine should be spotless. Gunna order the Goodwin kit until I do full motor mod,or boost then can just fully clutch it
 
Not sure what the taper is, but it is odd looking. Long stub. And it has a flat spot on the end for keying-in the P-drive clutch. No more alignment marks on the clutch and stub to line up.
 
We had a roller here that was flat spotted. Bad. Doo screwed up on the clutches this year. When you ride with a bud who is on a Poo, he can hold his bare hands on both clutches and they are cool, and I burn my hands through a glove on the secondary AFTER throwing snow on it....there is an issue.

It's a vicious circle. Once you have way too much heat, the clutch components start to fail too. And the PDrive rollers are lubed with isoflex grease. Wonder if that grease is getting ejected when these clutches are super hot, contributing to slippage. Dealer's aren't prepared to deal with these issues on a brand new clutch.
 
Went out yesterday, my 165 3" revs at 8100 on trail, buddies is at 8300 plus 154 3" he's got more burnt belts than me, seems more issue in shorter tracks but for 100 miles mine should be spotless. Gunna order the Goodwin kit until I do full motor mod,or boost then can just fully clutch it

I guess I don't get why you guys are running them at 81-8300? What clicker? Can't get the right weight?
 
Has anyone blowing belts added any weight to the bolt yet? I have asked this and seen it asked many times, yet I have found no one that has actually done this. Same as adjusting pin weight for altitude as we did with the TRA, or changing flyweights on a Polaris. Until the weight is proper, it WILL make excessive heat.
Until guys do this so they see no more than 8100ish on clicker 3, it's tough to blame this on the clutch design or calibration.
I am not doing much tuning this year (other priorities) but have been watching from the sidelines and have a little time on the new sled....it is definitely not loading the engine hard enough at the altitude I was at (4-5000ft) and that was on clicker 2. Adding weight would be at the top of my list....for what that's worth.
 
I'm running 7900. 8000 and still making quite a bit of dust and hot clutches. LEC on clicker 3 Clean it out and after 40 miles prettys excessive dust. Foam and felt pads around clutch torn out and 3.5 inch hole by secondary so in my opinion something with clutch are off or engine is moving under load

Also no high speed pulls so not abusing belt in overdrive
 
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I'm running 7900. 8000 and still making quite a bit of dust and hot clutches. LEC on clicker 3 Clean it out and after 40 miles prettys excessive dust. Foam and felt pads around clutch torn out and 3.5 inch hole by secondary so in my opinion something with clutch are off or engine is moving under load

Also no high speed pulls so not abusing belt in overdrive

How much weight are you running?
 
If it makes you Doo guys feel any better, I have a zero maintenance clutch for my arctic cat as well. I wrecked a roller last year and simply had to buy a new clutch. ZERO MAINTENANCE.
 
I think this light, dry, fluffy powder that we ALL have seen, has been detrimental to these new sleds. The snow simply isn't loading the clutches like they should be, hence the higher rpm, heat, blowing belts!

...best to load em heavy, and keep.that top rpm less than 8100!

Ace
 
I haven't messed with weight it's the skidoo low elevation they put in for me when I bought it. I may add a little weight once in a while it hits 8100 but usually 7900-8000. Haven't messed with much yet I was gonna see how long the belt goes. But clutch definitely gets overly hot
 
I think this light, dry, fluffy powder that we ALL have seen, has been detrimental to these new sleds. The snow simply isn't loading the clutches like they should be, hence the higher rpm, heat, blowing belts!

...best to load em heavy, and keep.that top rpm less than 8100!

Ace

My turbo viper runs 190 hp close to 9000 rpms with a 85 dollar belt, tiny little weights,super soft springs. 850 miles original belt. Belt and clutches are warm to the touch.
Got to be in the ski doo clutch set up. Doo runs 8100 rpms 165 hp at sea level 180 dallor belt. My two cents
Tar
 
If the 850 is anything like the 800 etec which I would think it would be even more so?
You need to load the engine till it won't pull anymore weight.
You can see 7900 and still add weight at times and it will still pull 7900 on same clicker.
These are very easy to add weight to and can't hardly believe no one has done it.
I am playing with a Pdrive on a 800 etec but I run completely different secondary and set up so no help.
Easier to bitch and complain I guess .lol
 
I'm somewhat new to skidoo what is the best way to add weight to these. Make own weights for buy a kit
 
I'm somewhat new to skidoo what is the best way to add weight to these. Make own weights for buy a kit

Buy a kit if you are not mechanical, build if you are. It is a very simple system if you understand it. I found some bushings/weights today (free), I have to mill them to correct ID, they will be a bolt on.
 
Beware you can only add one small washer before the bolt head hits the web of the spider. I also had bushings that were perfect, it is not the bushings that are the problem it is the bolt head.
I can only add one washer just under one gram, I doubt that that makes enough difference to even try it.

I did order the sea level primary spring as a mild fix, that has less force that should reduce the rpm by about 100 ( best guess/hope ) to get me down to around 8000 rpm for the time being until there is a proper fix available
 
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I took a hand full of 8mm lock washers and found 9 that where 1.5 grams each, put three under each bolt head. I'll put some extra in my pocket. If it over revs I can add more or under revs take some out. Easy to do on the mountain.

Tar
 
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