G4 BELT EATER! [2017 Ski Doo 850 Rev G4 clutching/belt fix?] Belt Issues

[madmax]

Now that's funny!

 

[Bocephus]

 

[05900]

Warranty Belts

Dealers want your belts for "product development"

*Sole not shown due to pending patents

wonder if they wobble as well?

 

[BLITZKRIEG]

 

[Daag44]

Search Engines show what you want to find....

I tried the same search criteria which is in fact looking for 2017 sleds. It came-up with mostly 2017 sleds and nothing anywhere near what you found.

Of course I read from Search Engine Engineers that Search Engines have gotten so sophisticated to the point they can predict what you want to find. So I guess you found what you were looking for, a reason to get a 4 stroke

 

[DITCHBANGER]

I tried the same search criteria which is in fact looking for 2017 sleds. It came-up with mostly 2017 sleds and nothing anywhere near what you found.

Of course I read from Search Engine Engineers that Search Engines have gotten so sophisticated to the point they can predict what you want to find. So I guess you found what you were looking for, a reason to get a 4 stroke

Guess that explains why BLITZKREIG has chicks with d*cks pop up adds..haha

 

[BLITZKRIEG]

Ditchbanger killed another thread talking about trannys.
Let's get it back going. [emoji12]

 

[BIG JOHN]

I really wish the pros were out here posting, but they post only a few times and expect that we pick-up on what they found and a spread the word.
I DOO try on here, DT and social media


To start, given your light weight on a 3" track you can Gear-Up the top gear by 1 tooth. the only sleds I recommend gearing UP is the 2.5" tracks

The next step is to change the secondary spring for a Black 157-303 #417 127 039 yes


Then load the ramp with enough weights to bring the rpm down to 7800-7900 in pow and 8000 MAX on trail. You didn't mention your elevation so I can't give you a estimated weight.967 only for above 8000', 951/968 for lower or my adj weights for ALL elevations

The ramp can also be changed for a 168. With the proper ramp and weight kit you can easily adjust for the elevation. See your favorite tuner for the necessary parts.have all elevations/ramps/pin weight established

Belt heat evacuation is one of the most important things to consider depending on your style of riding. If you cannot get the heat to escape because the snow packs in the left footwell, then you can make adjustments and even add a Blowhole to help. 3 2" holes where warning decals were, use gutter screen/rivets to allow max air flow out, add vents in shockwell and or blow hole

The most common mistake is to add any kind of venting to compensate for an underlying problem with heat. The heat is generated for the most part from poor Driveline calibration. In other words if the setup is not tailored for the type of riding you are doing, then the heat generated by the belt becomes exponential. So if you have a setup that works for 2-6" of loose snow in your neck of the woods, it will likely need a different calibration for 3 feet of pow with an an altitude change at Whistler.MOST guys have wrong calibration, wrong RPM, wrong belt deflection, DOO video is way wrong

Venting is still critical regardless of the clutch calibration. Even with the best calibration, the efficiency of the CVT using a belt generates a lot of heat which needs to be evacuated. Whatever change you make, please be sure it helps the heat to evacuate. Only the proper equipment to measure the Belt Temperature can answer this question.true

Clutch alignment should be at the very top of the list, although I am mentioning it close to last for a recency effect. This is big subject, but suffice to say the belt deflection and clutch cleanliness are two very important factors. The X and Y-X are two of the most important factors to ensure a low belt temperature. Just these two things will cause the belt temperature to soar and make it impossible to compensate with any amount of tricks. Alignment cannot be cheated. cord coming out = alignment, belt disintegration = heat

The Belt Performance and Durometer works with the calibration as a system. The best advice I have heard for the belt was to avoid playing musical belts. This means that we should choose one type of belt and spend time to make the calibration work with the least belt temperature.any belt other than DOO will need re calibration which is OK, just stay with that brand...dont flip flop belt brands

One last thing I would like you to consider is the Belt Speed. Just like the Alignment, this is critical to understand. The lower the Belt Speed, the more Efficient the CVT transmission will be. So if you find the popular consensus on Social Media is to down gear for more torque to the track and better response, when heading to your favorite off-trail area or returning to your trailer you may being doing yourself a disfavor with higher Belt Speeds to the point of reaching the Full Overdrive Shift. But if you learn the extent of your gearing with a simple calculation of Track Speed vs Drive Ratio, then you can easily adjust your trail riding habbits accordingly.

not sure if this is relevant other than for "rpm on the trail", I recommend clicking down 1 for ANY lengthy groomed trail ride and monitor RPM...gearing does come into play BUT with a 3" track and a groomed trail running 75 MPH is pretty UN smart

Between SW, DT, FB I have posted A LOT of tech tips, tuning and have made my own "in sled" adjustable ramps to help...

Just call, text, message for any clutching concerns-BJ

 

[Shredbud01]

What does one of these belts cost? Are the dealerships helping out with warranty coverage on the belts?


.

I guess it's the Dealers paying for them if they "warranty" them... so it's at their discretion.

 

[NHRoadking]

Didn't BRP say that they are coming out with a new belt too as part of the 2018 updates?