G4 BELT EATER! [2017 Ski Doo 850 Rev G4 clutching/belt fix?] Belt Issues
- Thread starter NWaxys
- Start date
J
jsenske
Member
Wouldn't complain a bit with that belt life. A belt with a string out is not worth being a spare imo
By adjusting Clickers you move the eccentric effectively moving more weight ahead of the pin and adding weight -- if you go up to a higher number it does the opposite effective removing weight from ahead of the pin. So the Clicker is a way to add or reduce weight without much fuss. If you run out of adjustment on the clicker you need to add or subtract weight on the pin or go to a different weight shift arm all together. In the race manual it actually tells you how much weight each clicker adds.
The belt issue is REAL.
If you have a machine that hasn't had a issue wether it is how you ride, where you ride, or just flat got a good one, GREAT
Those of us having issues do not care about your comments on " mine is perfect, so the rest of you must exaggerating " type comments.
I am convinced it is a combination of motor mounts and clutch component issues.
If you have a machine that hasn't had a issue wether it is how you ride, where you ride, or just flat got a good one, GREAT
Those of us having issues do not care about your comments on " mine is perfect, so the rest of you must exaggerating " type comments.
I am convinced it is a combination of motor mounts and clutch component issues.
M
mtn mike on boost
Well-known member
had same set up yesterday in super deep fresh, was still
pulling 8100 on #3. adding next size shim puts me @ 24 gr
that should be nutz for me. any issues with running 3,4 and 7mm on the 38mm bolt?
B
blk9038
Well-known member
I had to tow my friends 13 pro 163 in all the way back up hill and down hills from half way over to ravens roost Saturday, was hoping to trash /check out if you had any ice over your way, his top end let go so I put the 850 on rpm and kept it about 5700 to 7000 for about 14 miles back to truck did rest at top of pyramid pass to cool off the 850 but only stopped for 5 mins had to go all the way down to lower gate at greenwater, pulled cover off clutch and belt still looked great but fairly hot to touch minimal belt dust and was glad it was a 165 track as some ice towing back too. lucky our other friend had backup sled Saturday as mine were in my trailer at home but friend is probably abandoning Polaris and getting a 850 soon, in the meantime he will get to put miles on my 12 xp 163. love the sled. so got to do Saturday with snowjammers/and exploring greens pass.
Use your clickers go down to 1 if needed it is the same as adding weight but over the whole shift curve not only in the middle--so actually better.
M
mtn mike on boost
Well-known member
latest ride in crap snow ended up running 24 grams
on #2 pulling 7900. worked good, felt like it was pulling harder, but as I said, crap snow
Cut clutch cover
I wish I would have felt my footwell before I cut my cover because my clutch is pushing so much air out my footwell just at idle, I can't wait to see how it does in the pines.
I wish I would have felt my footwell before I cut my cover because my clutch is pushing so much air out my footwell just at idle, I can't wait to see how it does in the pines.
the fix is a paragon clutch I get near 3000 mi. on my xm.with a 391 belt
Don't be scared away.....it's a luck of the draw thing?
Well, for $14000, it's scared me away! I wanted one of these macgines so bad, but now I'll have to wait to see if they get it figured out.
Don't be scared away,
Yeah I too am scared to get a Doo.
Between killer pine cones and burning belts I think I'll be going to a tank yami,at least I know they R&D'd properly before releasing!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Between killer pine cones and burning belts I think I'll be going to a tank yami,at least I know they R&D'd properly before releasing!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1- I would think it's safe to assume the improved calibrations and improved clutch guard (for cooling) are all directly related to improved clutching and reduced heat. Seems like a no brainer!
2- Isn't it obvious? Less then ideal calibrations (clutching and gearing). This is a brand new clutch on a snowmobile with a new engine and chassis... There was bound to be optimizations for the second year!
I can see your points and apreciate your input...
My 2 questions are for brpcare...(purpose of this thread)
1) Still leaves the question, clearly, of CAUSE.
2) Relates to the NON problematic sleds.... Across the board, the G4-850 has elevated CVT temps compared to other models of sleds of similar, or higher, output. (Enough to need to put a fan on the stationary sheave of the 2018 G4-850)
There are two ways to reduce heat
A) Prevent heat from being produced in first place (best method)
B) Remove heat after it has been produced (Non efficient method)
.
My 2 questions are for brpcare...(purpose of this thread)
1) Still leaves the question, clearly, of CAUSE.
2) Relates to the NON problematic sleds.... Across the board, the G4-850 has elevated CVT temps compared to other models of sleds of similar, or higher, output. (Enough to need to put a fan on the stationary sheave of the 2018 G4-850)
There are two ways to reduce heat
A) Prevent heat from being produced in first place (best method)
B) Remove heat after it has been produced (Non efficient method)
.
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Just seams like this is a temporary fix for another much bigger problem.. How many sleds out there making much bigger power than 160 and sot having cooing fins on primary.. Maybe find the reason for the heat and fix that
Are you having problems with your 850 Summit with clutch heat?
Have you tried some of the suggestions to reduce heat? Any luck?
Sounds like Doo is looking at several different things to reduce heat (clutch calibration and motor mounts).
Stock Floating clutch please. Been running the skidoo floating clutch since 14 and experienced great belt life. put it on my 16 xm holdover and no blown belts. unfortunately after about 800 km this season the sheave spline came apart so i had to put in stock secondary. Blew a belt within 100km since dealer put stock one in, getting way hotter without the float.
Maybe the fins are to help keep the PTO bearing and crank cooler only? Looking at the pic above, is the fixed sheave mounted .024 off ctr like the '17, or now straight? I for one have never liked a stroke beyond 3.00" in a small 2 stroke engine, nothing but problem child! Also, what is the rod/stroke ratio? Mike
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I know this can seem an overly complex issue, but the easiest way is to first draw from the fundamentals of the Driveline which is everything after the engine and to the track. The next step is to scout for those who have managed to make it work well. The Driveline on sleds is a massive subject that I hope BRP can take some of their best minds to work a document. If a simple guy like me can do it, I am certain the brilliant minds @ BRP can. And I say this with conviction because the great majority of what I learned on clutching came from BRP in the 90s when I first began racing sleds in small venues. When I look at the iBackshift web site I recognize many concepts that were drawn from BRP's own engineers and Aaen Clutch Tuning Handbook. Most would be shocked at how much can be drawn and learned from BRP texts alone. But it is the person behind the web site that I respect immensely for making many of these concepts available to the public in a way that can be easily understood and applied to our sleds.
I have good reason to believe the fundamental problem with Blown Belts has been the communication. For this I do not hold BRP responsible simply because sifting through the forums is a nearly impossible task. The proof is that you have looked and did not find. So how many hours did I need to invest to build just a simple timeline. I am in between two seasonal jobs, so time is not an issue. After participating on forums for a number of years, it is also much easier for me to separate those who Cry Wolf from those who are genuinely trying to help. I can assure you that those who have been trying to help have been overshadowed by those who continue to claim the new technology does not work. And of course I can back-up my claim otherwise I would not have posted on a BRP Thread.
So if you want to show BRP what you can do to lower the Belt Temperature on your 850, this is your chance. I won't solve it on my own, but I can show you how to address the problem without waiting for a 2018 calibration. If you have snow left to ride, you really shouldn't wait. Hot Belts and Blown Belt simply should not be in the same sentence with High Powered Two Strokes.
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