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DIY Watercraft thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4Z
  • Start date Start date
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Ok here's the new pipes, Split Second Performance pipes for 800VES, fitted by Neil @ NPP in Edmonton AB. 8800rpm pipes. Neil fitted them with really chubby silencers, sounds super nice. Should run really nice on the hill. Wont dyno until I can get around to having motor ported to match.

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Has anybody considered using a AC diamond drive with mechanical reverse? I am going to build a 1200 iqr when i get all the parts needed.
Would be really nice to have reverse on it. The whole non reverse bit brings back bad memories when I was lifting my gen2 rmk around.
But I am worried that the DD wont hold up with the power.
I've read in this post that some use a older polaris chaincase with manual reverse, but i guess those chaincases are a bit short to run with large drivers and tracks with tall lugs.
 
has anyone else had a chronic mag housing falling off issue? Mine has the old UBR style housing. I've tried everything short of welding the damn thing. Everything clears it, theres no contact with pipes/bulkhead etc but it still falls off almost every trip. Seriously considering tacking it there...
been using red loctite, lots of torque on the bolts, 1104 on mating surfaces, cleaning all threads before re assemley etc doing everything right and it still wont stay put.
 
I had to add 4 more bolts, and 2 aligning pins. I also changed the allen bolts to a flange headed bolt and then the problems stopped. I also used a grade 5 bolt instead of a grade 8..
 
I just countersunk/tapered the 4 mounting holes on the mag housing to match the taper of the bolts that i bought to use on it, red loctite the piss out of it and has not come loose yet, if you do this just make sure to have the same taper as the bolts put in to the housing
 
Brandon, Page 9 & 10 the group discussed this issue... Here is a copy/paste of my post. There are a some very good solutions out there. Just like Ben's (minecat)

If anyone is running the old-style UBR housing please note: If the mag housing touchs the bulkhead it will come loose. If it comes loose (can and does even if it doesn't hit the bulkhead) it will continue to come loose and cause huge issues (like Darrin's). The only fix is to Dowl it and use some epoxy (in a very small amount) if it is bad enough. Brad's new design (as I have said before) is a huge leap in improving this area. So for anyone building a motor right now or thinking about it. Two things, 1- buy a new crank through Brad or have IndyDan build you one. 2- If you need the space (like in a Edge or IQR) go with Brad's new mag housing (also available through Indy Specialty). Do not go "cheap skate" on these two items. Do yourself a favor and discuss this with either one of these two guys, you will not be misled!!!!
 
Thanks Lynn. Can't believe I never had this issue till now, but it also had never been apart since it left you guys in 2006 until the crank was replaced last year. Probably all it took cuz its been falling off ever since. I'm going to do the 7 bolt program, a few dowels and epoxy. The last trip could have cost me a $3000 heli ride so no more messin around.
 
I am trying to get all the requiered parts to build a 1200 wc in a iqr chassie.
Will start off running tm40 carbs.
Is the carb flanges i need #1253566?
I have a extra mikuni fuel pump from a 02 800 ves motor, can I use it? Should i get another on and hook up in parallel and T everything together?
 
has anyone else had a chronic mag housing falling off issue? Mine has the old UBR style housing. I've tried everything short of welding the damn thing. Everything clears it, theres no contact with pipes/bulkhead etc but it still falls off almost every trip. Seriously considering tacking it there...
been using red loctite, lots of torque on the bolts, 1104 on mating surfaces, cleaning all threads before re assemley etc doing everything right and it still wont stay put.

I made my own housing for the f1000 recoil, but i allso used the tapered countersunk bolts and added a ear to bolt up with the exhaust flange too. I allso cut a big chunck of the housing, not the bulkhead. It is open to the flywheel there.
 
Has anybody considered using a AC diamond drive with mechanical reverse? I am going to build a 1200 iqr when i get all the parts needed.
Would be really nice to have reverse on it. The whole non reverse bit brings back bad memories when I was lifting my gen2 rmk around.
But I am worried that the DD wont hold up with the power.
I've read in this post that some use a older polaris chaincase with manual reverse, but i guess those chaincases are a bit short to run with large drivers and tracks with tall lugs.

That reverse diamond drive is known to be really heavy and horsepower robbing too...
 
I am trying to get all the requiered parts to build a 1200 wc in a iqr chassie.
Will start off running tm40 carbs.
Is the carb flanges i need #1253566?
I have a extra mikuni fuel pump from a 02 800 ves motor, can I use it? Should i get another on and hook up in parallel and T everything together?


The rack give you two fuelinlets, one side need the longer fueltee from the CAT ZR 800/900. so can run two fuelpumps, how much fuel it needs i dont know. hiperf.com sell another tank fitting, use the polaris fuelpickups in the tank if you add a outlet in the tank. I run two complete fuelpumps with their own tank fittings. sled is not running yet.. just trying to help.
 
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