Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

DIY Watercraft thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4Z
  • Start date Start date
Thread Rating
5.00 star(s)
Your chassis harness should plug right in to the motor. Black wire is your kill (when grounded), yellow is lighting coil power, and brown is ground. If your running a Mtn fit hood I got your hookup on hood and side vents.
 
i have a xcr 800 ignition programed for slp pipes an i hooked up all wires the only thing that works is the kill switch:confused
unplugged replugged main that comes out of mag. key now turns motor off,but no lights rpm?would twin stock tach work with tripple? have udx race pack on the way!
 
Last edited:
Do ya have a regulator wired in? Your not trying to use the edge tach right? like snowstar said...yellows hot browns ground. Did you run ground wires? I have a ground from chassi to chain case to engine to wiring. good grounds.

fired up my sled tonight, I tach said 8 grand at idle and head light was real dim, so I to have a few bugs to fix tomorrow. should be on the snow friday or sat.
 
using stock edge wiring harness!:D:beer;
hope there's a voltage regulator there someplace
 
Last edited:
using stock edge wiring harness!:D:beer;
hope there's a voltage regulator there someplace

Dude you got a mod now.:beer;

cant plug it in and go....:(

I think your twin regulator wont work. Go get the xcr 800 one and wire it in to your CDI.

Polarisrocks knows his chit about wiring. ask him about the xcr stuff.

Hope your not trying to use the edge tach.....:rolleyes: you need a 3 pulse tach.
 
okay what else i don,t know about?:(
and on subject of voltage regulators why is my cmx 925 burning up regulators
currently had 2 stacked still burning light bulb as soon as you put them in:confused:
 
How should one adjust the timming? Did you set your strator plates in the middle of the holes to begin with?
 
Hey guys. Almost done with my 2007 Iq 1200. Big thanks to Brad and Lynn for being so gratious with their knowledge. I buttoned it up and it fired, man it sounds good. Couldn't ride it cuz I'm waiting for a power-jet.
Anyway, I used the new EGT Ultradash (udx6) and I can't get it to turn on. Also, the PIAA's won't start either. I hooked the EGT to the yellow(+) and brown in the headlight pod and the PIAA's to the yellow/red(+) and brown. If I use a test light I have power all the time to yellow-brown and to the yellow/red-brown when the high beam is on (as planned). The two other wires in the hood pod are green (low beam) and blk/white (temp sender). The guy at EGT told me I HAD to be hooked to the lighting coil which I believe I am. It's just odd that both items aren't working. I do have tail/brake and hot hand/thumb warmers. This is an Ultra CDI with the stock 2007 IQ440 mod chassis and regulator(s).
I also have a small coolant leak somewhere which I hope is just a spring clamp (unfortunately under the carbs). There is no sweet coolant smell from the exhaust but is there something I should be looking right at? This was John O's old mill, he hit a tree with it.
Also, the coolant is not circulating yet though I've been burping and filling it won't take off. Might be the pump or just f**** bubbles? This was a dry chassis.
Sorry for the length, it's been a few days of dicking around.
Jim Foran
 
jim you have to have the red yellow and the yellow connected to each other for the lighing coil to work . so hook them together and try that. Brad
 
Hey guys. Almost done with my 2007 Iq 1200. Big thanks to Brad and Lynn for being so gratious with their knowledge. I buttoned it up and it fired, man it sounds good. Couldn't ride it cuz I'm waiting for a power-jet.
Anyway, I used the new EGT Ultradash (udx6) and I can't get it to turn on. Also, the PIAA's won't start either. I hooked the EGT to the yellow(+) and brown in the headlight pod and the PIAA's to the yellow/red(+) and brown. If I use a test light I have power all the time to yellow-brown and to the yellow/red-brown when the high beam is on (as planned). The two other wires in the hood pod are green (low beam) and blk/white (temp sender). The guy at EGT told me I HAD to be hooked to the lighting coil which I believe I am. It's just odd that both items aren't working. I do have tail/brake and hot hand/thumb warmers. This is an Ultra CDI with the stock 2007 IQ440 mod chassis and regulator(s).
I also have a small coolant leak somewhere which I hope is just a spring clamp (unfortunately under the carbs). There is no sweet coolant smell from the exhaust but is there something I should be looking right at? This was John O's old mill, he hit a tree with it.
Also, the coolant is not circulating yet though I've been burping and filling it won't take off. Might be the pump or just f**** bubbles? This was a dry chassis.
Sorry for the length, it's been a few days of dicking around.
Jim Foran

Could be air trapped in the rear tail section of the tunnel/coolers. Can be a real pain to get out, you need to elevate the front alot to get the air out.
 
So basiclly pretty much turn it full advanced as there is where one wants to be? I think SLP recommended 16 @ 8000 for the RMK. Of course, will double check that its around 16 @ 8000 when I get it fired up, as it can be diffrent curves depending of the year of the ignition and manufacturing diffs.
 
the proper way to time your 1200 is to make a marker out of wire of something and make a mark on your clutch for top dead center on the mag side.......I think....mag side right Brad?.........so set the wire so its marking TDC and get a dial indicator to find 16 deg. before TDC and make another mark then ya fire it up and run her up to 8G and with a timing light see where it hits. Brads just geting you guys a close mark not a exact mark. You need to make sure your sleds running the correct timing or you can do alot of damage to it.

you have alot of money here ya dont want to fuk it up now. truns me.....:D
 
So basiclly pretty much turn it full advanced as there is where one wants to be? I think SLP recommended 16 @ 8000 for the RMK. Of course, will double check that its around 16 @ 8000 when I get it fired up, as it can be diffrent curves depending of the year of the ignition and manufacturing diffs.

I recommend that anyone using the xcr ignition to play close attention to part throttle operation at first. Particularly if you use the stock rack carbs. You can burn it down in the 1/4-1/2 throttle range if you don't run egts and watch it.
 
jim you have to have the red yellow and the yellow connected to each other for the lighing coil to work . so hook them together and try that. Brad

Thanks Brad, where might I find the red/yellow. I have everything loomed, a tip would be handy. I know it's not in the dash pod it must be right off the coil to the cdi?
Thanks again.
 
I recommend that anyone using the xcr ignition to play close attention to part throttle operation at first. Particularly if you use the stock rack carbs. You can burn it down in the 1/4-1/2 throttle range if you don't run egts and watch it.

NP - is this based on TPS being in the curve still?...curious what the basis of concern with the XCR map would be...thx.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top