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DIY Watercraft thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4Z
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Hub question

Brad I'm wanting to send my fly wheel back to you for that hub but i was wondering is the fly wheel rebalanced after you put the new hub on? Oh and this is the 680 sewt up.Thanks.
 
The wire dia. is .200 I think it is the cutler spring. Carbs are 44 Mikuni roundslides, 320 main, 1.5 slides, 7DH5 needles, AO5 jet tubes, 32.5 pilots, with power jets.
 
Brad I'm wanting to send my fly wheel back to you for that hub but i was wondering is the fly wheel rebalanced after you put the new hub on? Oh and this is the 680 sewt up.Thanks.

send her down and i will fix it up no need to rebalance as i am not changing anything on the flywheel itself. Brad
 
A quick pipe question.
I know the CS pipes for the 1200 has a 29mm stinger diameter.
But how about stinger size on the 1050?
My pipes have 33mm stingers, and I can't help but think this is loose.
port timing is 203/132
As the pipes are now, they are tuned at 8300rpm with a real wide powerband.
A blind man could clutch it.
 
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02 edge 1050 pics

I am just getting this new format figured out so O thought I would post some pic of my 1050 w/c triple. Sled is a blast to ride. Still waiting for better snow in sw mt. Help keep the thread going!!

wc side.jpg wc engine.jpg wc clutchs.jpg wc front.jpg
 
A quick pipe question.
I know the CS pipes for the 1200 has a 29mm stinger diameter.
But how about stinger size on the 1050?
My pipes have 33mm stingers, and I can't help but think this is loose.
port timing is 203/132
As the pipes are now, they are tuned at 8300rpm with a real wide powerband.
A blind man could clutch it.

If you are running Jaws pipes, that stinger size will be fine. On CS pipes it would be too loose for that timing and displacement IMHO. You cna weld a 3/8" nut after the sting in the ex pipe and run a bolt down in to tighten it up. Works good last long time.

RMK4life.
220-230 is about where the 1050 is, 250-270 is where the 1200 is. Now add a 60 shot to the 270 motor :) :)
 
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If you are running Jaws pipes, that stinger size will be fine. On CS pipes it would be too loose for that timing and displacement IMHO. You cna weld a 3/8" nut after the sting in the ex pipe and run a bolt down in to tighten it up. Works good last long time.

RMK4life.
220-230 is about where the 1050 is, 250-270 is where the 1200 is. Now add a 60 shot to the 270 motor :) :)

I thinks I would have to ride with a diaper on at 60 shot, can you say rip arms out of your sockets:D:beer;
 
If you are running Jaws pipes, that stinger size will be fine. On CS pipes it would be too loose for that timing and displacement IMHO. You cna weld a 3/8" nut after the sting in the ex pipe and run a bolt down in to tighten it up. Works good last long time.

RMK4life.
220-230 is about where the 1050 is, 250-270 is where the 1200 is. Now add a 60 shot to the 270 motor :) :)

I believe my pipes are xc700 hot seat pipes from back in the day. I cut 2 inches out of the headpipe to get them to rev to 8300(verified on a dyno). They look to have more volume to them than crankshop pipes. I dont know how that affect stinger diameter.

0032 (Small).JPG
 
well broke my 1st drive shaft yesterday. I was diving on and off the trail in and out of the fluffy banks landing on the packed road and shazam. it broke right in half between the drivers, destroyed the chaincase, drivers, and all of the new parts I just put in it. what a satisfying but crappy day.. having the power to break sh!t, awsome. having to try and figure outhow to make it stronger, challenging. pics to come
 
diy

Just a note. Every time I talk to Kurt at crank shop he has told me that they do not worry about stinger size. They neck there pipes at the end of the divergant cone.His reason for this is to many different lengths and applications. As long as your stingers are larger than your outlet on the cone you are good. Kurt has some very exact numbers for lower elevation but not as much testing at high elevation. Think about it, it would be very hard to make all three stingers the same length in one of these machines. Has every body had the same designs?
 
Just a note. Every time I talk to Kurt at crank shop he has told me that they do not worry about stinger size. They neck there pipes at the end of the divergant cone.His reason for this is to many different lengths and applications. As long as your stingers are larger than your outlet on the cone you are good. Kurt has some very exact numbers for lower elevation but not as much testing at high elevation. Think about it, it would be very hard to make all three stingers the same length in one of these machines. Has every body had the same designs?

Polarisrocks dyno'd his sled with 2 diff sets of CS pipes with very diff lengths of stingers. one set has long ones and the others are very short. there was only about 2-3 hp and 2-3 tq diff and were 100% that it wasnt the stinger making the #s diff. length doesnt matter.
 
Anyone have a problem with the pto seal on the cases? I have the watercraft seal with the grove for the cases and everything fits good except where the hole is in the middle, there are two lips and it seems like the outter lip BARELY makes contact with the crank? The twin seal that I have is way wider and wont fit, this seems to be the correct seal but it doesnt fit on the crank very well?
 
Should use the 800 twin PTO seals on both sides (PTO and Mag) unless you have the new style machined cases from Brad. Did you do anything different as far as cases and crank?
 
Stock 1200 watercraft cases, I did all the machine work myself, I have the mag seal driven into the housing and it fits like a glove, The twin pto seal I have doesnt have the lip on the outter edge that fits in the grove in the cases (just smooth all the way around) i ordered the watercraft style rubber seal and it seems like it doesnt quite go in far enough for the second lip to completely seal at the crank but the outter lip (that sits in the groove machined in the cases fits perfectly? Its almost like the crank doesnt sit out far enough to make a better seal?
 
I had to have a new seal groove cut,.090 wide and .090 deep. I just didnt like the way the seal seated. the inner part of the seal seals outward pressure and the out seals the inward pressure from the crank drawing air. you have to have both to get the proper seal. I had to have a .090 thou groove cut for the seal and a new groove for the snap ring on the outer bearing. I had to take out some shims between the two outer bearings to reset the proper set up. the best way to do that is take a spare bearing and machine some from the inner race so it slides on and off crank easily. You can take some permatex two part apoxy and fill the old groves and add some durability to the cases for some peace of mind if you choose. i have two years on it done right and way lessssssss oil and crap from the seal. I actuall ran the motor with it half on and half off for 3 months and had more crap from the seal than I have had in the last two years.
 
does anybody run a 1200 0-3000' and what setup (main jets,air needle,primary spring,clutch weights,secondary spring,helix?)
have 40mm bored to 42mm racked carbs
team secondary
fett brothers heavy hitters
159" 2 1/8 track
 
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