DIY Watercraft thread

[1sleeper]

jim you have to have the red yellow and the yellow connected to each other for the lighing coil to work . so hook them together and try that. Brad

OK, I checked it out at the stator. I have a yellow wire, a brown wire, and a yellow/red wire. The yellow goes to the yellow on the sled, the brown goes to the brown, and the yellow/red is not used by the sled but is factory jumped on the stator side of the plug to the brown wire which leads me to believe the yellow/red is grounded for some reason. If I connect the yellow and yellow/red, won't I be grounding the whole deal?

Also, found my coolant leak. The outside O-ring on the head was smashed outside the groove by the previous owner. I should have disassembled the whole thing on the bench. Funny thing when I pulled the head cover, there was a secret message inside. On the head was written in sharpie "let it rip Ninja". Could these heads be from Ninja Plumber? I believe they are 47cc power addiction.

 

[1200psi]

they are my heads but at the time johno needed a new dome i didnt have one and borrowed one from ninja plumber so jim could sell this motor to you. . theres the story trust me the yellow red has to be conected to the yellow not sure the reason i can check into it thought.

brad

 

[1sleeper]

I trust ya. Should I cut it from the plug so it's not connected to brown and scotch lock it to the yellow or just go for it?
Also, the cover was leaking slightly (droplets) between the red anodized and bottom billet piece. John had applied a little RTV to the o-ring. Is that something you recommend? Is 47cc sea-level?
Thanks a whole lot.

 

[MOB]

The timing curve gets real aggressive through the midrange (cruise)

I believe the Ultra curve has more advance through midrange...hence my question...still wondering.

 

[zaxxcmx925]

my electrical was yellow to yellowand brown to brown yellow red wasn't connected to anything so connected to yellow, still no voltage?

 

[Brannmark]

I have some problems with my 6207 bearing that goes on the PTO side. The snapring seams to big. Anyone have had that problem to? Are there diffrent snaprings on the 6207 bearing that has snapring? Or is my case diffrent and the recess in the case is to small (not deep enough).

 

[1sleeper]

my electrical was yellow to yellowand brown to brown yellow red wasn't connected to anything so connected to yellow, still no voltage?

Zax, Brad was specifically speaking of the ultra ignition. I can tell you first hand that you shouldn't have to jump anything for the xcr cdi to work on the edge harness. Do you have grips and a tailight or is the whole lighting circuit down? You are going to have to start trouble shooting your issue. Check for power out of the stator. Then move up to the plugs for grips, tailight, headlight, with a multi meter between brown and green to see if you have 13 volts. It may be as simple as a cut wire in the loom.
Jim

 

[4Z]

There was some discussion a few days ago on pipes and stinger size. I think some of us were talking apples and others were talking oranges.

What is known as the STINGER is the short chunk of pipe welded on to the end of the divergence gone (oposite end from the motor), then, the exhaust pipe mates up to it in some fashion. Like slip fit, ball and socket are the most comon.

The SILENCER is what would be called the muffler or can if you will. It needs an outlet larger than the STINGER.

CS high altitude 800 pipes have a 29mm Inside Diameter STINGER. I like the 3 inch silencer diameter for noise reduction.

CS low alititude 800 pipes have the 32mm ID STINGERS.

Jaws pipes come with 33 ID stingers but we put 35 mm ID on them with the bolt to tune them in.

 

[1200psi]

guys i screwed i up the red yellow goes to the brown not the yellow wire had a brain fart.
Brad

 

[zaxxcmx925]

zero voltage ,got my testing gear from work will test whats up

 

[zaxxcmx925]

There was some discussion a few days ago on pipes and stinger size. I think some of us were talking apples and others were talking oranges.

What is known as the STINGER is the short chunk of pipe welded on to the end of the divergence gone (oposite end from the motor), then, the exhaust pipe mates up to it in some fashion. Like slip fit, ball and socket are the most comon.

The SILENCER is what would be called the muffler or can if you will. It needs an outlet larger than the STINGER.

CS high altitude 800 pipes have a 29mm Inside Diameter STINGER. I like the 3 inch silencer diameter for noise reduction.

CS low alititude 800 pipes have the 32mm ID STINGERS.

Jaws pipes come with 33 ID stingers but we put 35 mm ID on them with the bolt to tune them in.

I bought a used 1200 with SLP pipes that have 103/4 odx23/8odx13/8id stingers it was setup for 6-12000' and i'm at 0-3000'

 

[mattymac]

I believe the Ultra curve has more advance through midrange...hence my question...still wondering.

There are two diffrent ultra ignitions, the ULTRA SP has a bit more aggressive curve than the standard ULTRA ignition.

 

[mattymac]

1sleeper, also the 650 waterpump is a non priming pump which means if there is air in it IT WILL NOT CURCULATE THE WATER. Like a ditch pump it needs to be primed via the vent screws in the pump and the thermostat housing. The nipple on the pump was to help keep air out of the system from expansion and contraction of water, it needs a puke tank cause it can suck in air and not pump. The tank from an older 440 (dont remember which model) has the levervent cap, overflow nipple and supply nipple at the bottom of the tank with a 1 way check valve that gets put in between the pump nipple and the tank. If you just plug off the nipple its fine but if you roll the sled and have a cat style bottle it will get air in it and make the pump loose its prime and it will over heat.

 

[MBR46]

with that aggressive timing curve is anyone at the sea level elevation retarding their timing? i turned it back 1/16" and i am running 9-2xl needles and it is still very lean. what are sea level guys running for needles? and, are you still running the lectrons? should i roll the timing further back (retarded, clockwise on the stator)

 

[1sleeper]

1sleeper, also the 650 waterpump is a non priming pump which means if there is air in it IT WILL NOT CURCULATE THE WATER. Like a ditch pump it needs to be primed via the vent screws in the pump and the thermostat housing. The nipple on the pump was to help keep air out of the system from expansion and contraction of water, it needs a puke tank cause it can suck in air and not pump. The tank from an older 440 (dont remember which model) has the levervent cap, overflow nipple and supply nipple at the bottom of the tank with a 1 way check valve that gets put in between the pump nipple and the tank. If you just plug off the nipple its fine but if you roll the sled and have a cat style bottle it will get air in it and make the pump loose its prime and it will over heat.

Thanks, I did burp it out the pump and T housing. I'm running the edge/IQr puke bottle that t's in the line and keeps a bottle full of coolant above it for burping. I think I need to get the bottle higher to get the bottle full line higher than the top hose. Thanks for the tip.

 

[1sleeper]

with that aggressive timing curve is anyone at the sea level elevation retarding their timing? i turned it back 1/16" and i am running 9-2xl needles and it is still very lean. what are sea level guys running for needles? and, are you still running the lectrons? should i roll the timing further back (retarded, clockwise on the stator)

I am starting with 7-2xl needles because that's what the previous owner had installed and he sometimes rode low. That is with the power jets which I assume you also have. I heard from your Brother (MBR44?) that Rob Schooping (HTG) recommends even higher than 9-2xl. Have you checked your timing? I would do that. What temps are you seeing with good plugs?
Jim

 

[1sleeper]

I bought a used 1200 with SLP pipes that have 103/4 odx23/8odx13/8id stingers it was setup for 6-12000' and i'm at 0-3000'

Zaxx, I have a set of crank shops for a proX/edge low alt. The PTO needs repair if your handy. I also still have the prox/edge plate from brad.

 

[zaxxcmx925]

pipes

Zaxx, I have a set of crank shops for a proX/edge low alt. The PTO needs repair if your handy. I also still have the prox/edge plate from brad.

does that mean the pipesi have may not work?

 

[1sleeper]

Not sure if they are too tight. Measure them again in millimeters and check them against what 4Z posted. You could choke down with the bolt trick for elevation but if those pipes were for altitude, they may be too tight for sea level.

 

[mattymac]

Here ya go fellas! just finished it up other than pipes and a few very small things. Pipes start on tuesday! holz 144 prox chassis, 45" wide front tripple rate works shocks, extros, rolled CC, ti bolts, fly bars, 2" tall LW hood BAD OSCAR paint job, 1200 EV, 13.5:1, VF reeds, rackslide carbs, p85/cat roller, simmons skis, 144x15x1.5 (2" cutdown) 8" big wheels MM 2,3,+4 wheel axel, anti stab kit, CS pipes. Should be ready next weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!