DIY Watercraft thread
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R
R_8_N
Well-known member
anyone have a recoil cup layin around? the piece that bolts to the lower water pump pully.
would probably be intrested in a recloil to if its in really good shape.
Im having a hell of a time keeping recoils working. the latest thing happened yesterday. i think i had to much rope after the knot insite the recoil and it got hooked on the cup yanking the handle off so hard that it flew by my head and the rope bound up all around the cup stoping my engine. i was just putting through the trees too.
ive only been out like 6 times this year and i bet 4 of em ive had to work on the recoil. ive had 2 different ones on there to. the last 2 times ive just taken it off half way through the day and started it off the clutch. im half tempted to just start doing this from the parking lot since this has been the biggest pain in the azz for me this year. every time it breaks its something different to so its not like its something im doing wrong.........well i guess they have been my fault but you know...
would probably be intrested in a recloil to if its in really good shape.
Im having a hell of a time keeping recoils working. the latest thing happened yesterday. i think i had to much rope after the knot insite the recoil and it got hooked on the cup yanking the handle off so hard that it flew by my head and the rope bound up all around the cup stoping my engine. i was just putting through the trees too.
ive only been out like 6 times this year and i bet 4 of em ive had to work on the recoil. ive had 2 different ones on there to. the last 2 times ive just taken it off half way through the day and started it off the clutch. im half tempted to just start doing this from the parking lot since this has been the biggest pain in the azz for me this year. every time it breaks its something different to so its not like its something im doing wrong.........well i guess they have been my fault but you know...
which recoil do you have?
Got a set of 38mm round slide mikuni's on a 1050 around roughly 1000 ft elevation. Just looking for some baseline jetting numbers if anybody can help me out or get me close this would be much appreciated. Wondering what slide, needle+position, main jet, idle jet, etc. you are running. Thanks alot!!!
Huro,
I'm running same thing and this is working for me....you might want to work down to it by starting a clip higher and a couple mains larger.
MJ 400-380-380 (P-C-M)
Tube: Q2 (If you have P8 that's what I'm going to next)
Needle: 6-DH4 (#2 from top of needle)
50 PJ
Air Screw 2 out
Cutouts 2.0 (.....tried 3's and it fell on face but you might try 2.5)
I have this as my -20 setup for the 1050.
I'm running same thing and this is working for me....you might want to work down to it by starting a clip higher and a couple mains larger.
MJ 400-380-380 (P-C-M)
Tube: Q2 (If you have P8 that's what I'm going to next)
Needle: 6-DH4 (#2 from top of needle)
50 PJ
Air Screw 2 out
Cutouts 2.0 (.....tried 3's and it fell on face but you might try 2.5)
I have this as my -20 setup for the 1050.
F
flying pig
Well-known member
I have a half of a 40mm rack left over from my carb build for sale, pm me on it...
M
MBR46
New member
if it is in an IQ i would run the cooler, it is pretty easy to route the cooling. this motor needs the cooling.
about the recoil, i am also having issues. i have broke the large washer/cap that the starter spring goes around. 3 times this year to be exact. the spring clip goes around that "indented washer" and catches the starter arm. when the recoil rewinds the cap washer turns and the spring clip remains stationary creating friction and wearing a groove around the U or drop down portion of that washer making it weak. if brad developed one that was machined out of 6061 or something it would be much more durable.
has anyone found better guts for this recoil? it was just a bad design for polaris. what are the guts of the twin like?
about the recoil, i am also having issues. i have broke the large washer/cap that the starter spring goes around. 3 times this year to be exact. the spring clip goes around that "indented washer" and catches the starter arm. when the recoil rewinds the cap washer turns and the spring clip remains stationary creating friction and wearing a groove around the U or drop down portion of that washer making it weak. if brad developed one that was machined out of 6061 or something it would be much more durable.
has anyone found better guts for this recoil? it was just a bad design for polaris. what are the guts of the twin like?
O
ottar88
Member
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
900 reeds fit too
P
pick1
New member
I'm currently using regular polaris tripple V force reeds. They have the flanges cut off to fit inside the reed box. Their screwed to the back of the carb adapter with stuffers on each side. They seem to work fine but looking for something better.
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
stock 900 are the same as a v force and fit right in. only real diff between the stock ones and the vforece is vforce is a plastic cage and carbon peddles i belive. Ive been running the 900s for 3 years now with no issue.
stock 900 reeds with the 600 HO carb boot and stock 40mm carbs are a really nice match. bolts right up
thaught i would keep it alive, i must say ive read threw the entire thread, took me about 6 hours i would say, and i plan on building one in a year or to. amazing how much you guys know about them, and i hope when the time comes that you can help me along the way. thanks.
1
1sleeper
New member
Dyno Results
Dyno'd my sled today at Dynotech in Batavia NY.
1200 non-valved, Ruth ported, Lectron, Ultra ignition, Crankshop, Brad's pump gas heads, 58 degrees F.
245.1 Chp @ 8400
153.3 Clb-ft
.598 BSFC
11.1 A/F
154-156 Clb-ft from 7700-8400rpm Platter flat.
Overall, I'm pleased as this is super safe on pump gas.
Engine showed zero deto, as Jim Czekala says with a stethoscope contraption hooked to ear muffs "not a tick". Which means a 60hp wet shot would probably be perfect.
Dyno'd my sled today at Dynotech in Batavia NY.
1200 non-valved, Ruth ported, Lectron, Ultra ignition, Crankshop, Brad's pump gas heads, 58 degrees F.
245.1 Chp @ 8400
153.3 Clb-ft
.598 BSFC
11.1 A/F
154-156 Clb-ft from 7700-8400rpm Platter flat.
Overall, I'm pleased as this is super safe on pump gas.
Engine showed zero deto, as Jim Czekala says with a stethoscope contraption hooked to ear muffs "not a tick". Which means a 60hp wet shot would probably be perfect.
sleeper dyno
nice number! should cluthc easy
Did you notice hot/cold pipe as big difference?
What RPM did it fall off at?
What carbs?
I have some 1050 Ruth cylinders and love them, one of the funnest engines I've owned. The dyno time was worth the $ to get confident on the setup and know the RPM range.
nice number! should cluthc easy
Did you notice hot/cold pipe as big difference?
What RPM did it fall off at?
What carbs?
I have some 1050 Ruth cylinders and love them, one of the funnest engines I've owned. The dyno time was worth the $ to get confident on the setup and know the RPM range.
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