Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

DIY Watercraft thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4Z
  • Start date Start date
Thread Rating
5.00 star(s)
Nice one Daryn:D I did the same thing a couple weeks ago. If I would have rode McCall it would have happened that weekend:eek: I will be checking mine every ride.
If anyone is running the old-style UBR housing please note: If the mag housing touchs the bulkhead it will come loose. If it comes loose (can and does even if it doesn't hit the bulkhead) it will continue to come loose and cause huge issues (like Darrin's). The only fix is to Dowl it and use some epoxy (in a very small amount) if it is bad enough. Brad's new design (as I have said before) is a huge leap in improving this area. So for anyone building a motor right now or thinking about it. Two things, 1- buy a new crank through Brad or have IndyDan build you one. 2- If you need the space (like in a Edge or IQR) go with Brad's new mag housing (also available through Indy Specialty). Do not go "cheap skate" on these two items. Do yourself a favor and discuss this with either one of these two guys, you will not be misled!!!!
 
What weighs everyone these 1200 watercraft constructions.
Is curious on Brad's monsters 1200.
I mean entire skotern and engine. And how mycke fuel takes these monsters?
 
for you guys that have had the mag housing come loose i just fixed one for a customer that i drilled and tapped 3 5/16 holes and then countersunk the heads with a 82 degree countersink then run a flat head 5/16 screw that will help out alot to do this.

Brad
 
Also, instead of red locktite, I found that "Super bonder 499" from Locktite was made just for the application of glueing the mag housing on. Most places don't stock it, so your parts house may have to order it. It was made to resist heat cycles and has a more of a bonding property.
 
Got the mag housing fix thanks to Brad. I dont think it will come off again, ever, even if I tried:eek:. I will post some pics tomorrow.
 
waiting for mine to arrive today....is anyone using through bolts to hold the motor down? i ripped all 5 if my 90 duro mounts in half. i know ninja plumber is using one on the pto front. ( in addition to the ultra style mount that comes in the IQ plates)
 
Like just a bolt with no insulator? That would about rattle your teeth out. How old were the mounts? Does the motor plate and mag housing have enough clearance with the bulkhead? Do you have to load your motor mounts with the push arm to align the clutches? All things to consider.
 
waiting for mine to arrive today....is anyone using through bolts to hold the motor down? i ripped all 5 if my 90 duro mounts in half. i know ninja plumber is using one on the pto front. ( in addition to the ultra style mount that comes in the IQ plates)

The ultra "sandwich" style is what I used in the front, threaded a 3/8" bolt down into the stock nut plate below.
 
Here is a pic of ultra front mounts (also used on the XLT and storm) along with the stock prox front limiter and my clap-trap on the block.
Worked very well, looked redneck.
2816052080051373056S600x600Q85.jpg
 
Mag housing fix

Added 3 5/16 countersink bolts, helicoil existing four bolt holes in the case.
DSC04254.jpg
[/IMG]

Motor going back in, cracks in bulkhead havent spread:D Some day Ill turn the nitrous on
DSC04261.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Have you got any pics of your mounting Ninja plumber

I run a gen II chassis so it it different than most of you guys.
I am also using it just for ice racing. This is what currently works for me.

Rear torque stop
DSC00609-1.jpg


Front torque link and mag housing torque stop
Dsc00865.jpg

The bolt on the PTO side going threw the motor plate had
been increase to 7/16.
I have the motor plate drilled to match bolt.

I don't ride the sled for hours on end so vibration is not a problem for us.
I have not had any issues with the mag housing coming loose. I have run
it like this for 3 seasons now. I believe because I have the motor mounted
so good that there is not an excessive amount of push on the housing.
If I run with broken mounts it could be a problem.
I did break the 7/16 bolt once this year. I am currently going to increase
the bolt size to 1/2" while my motor is out.

As most of you know there is only one bolt hole on the front
PTO side.

DSC00870.jpg

I have not broken this mount. It has held up extremely well. I believe because the link is angled
down it helps stop the upward movement of the engine a lot.
Lynn posted a while back the part numbers for the link. for those that
are interested here they are:
bulkhead bracket 1013777
bolts to hold bracket 7517632
rubber coated rod end link torque limiter 3021411
 
I am going to run a 2001 RMK chassis for my 1200 platform. I have an 875 PSI motor in a 2000 RMK and am running 5 stock mounts and 3 tourque arms. The motor stays in line fairly well. I just ordered some 90 duro mounts from Brad and I bet it wont move much then. I will do 1/2 bolts from the get go. I really like your front pto stop bracket and I bet I could incorporate that design into what I am running. Thanks for the heads up Ninjaplumber. I will get it right with the little sled and then copy it in my 1200 sled this sumer
 
Last edited:
Since Woody1050 wouldn't do it himself, I'll post his results from the Norwegian Championship Snow Drags.

With his TRAIL 1200 RMK Gen2, starting on snow, with no studs. 760lbs weight, he did:

6,5 sek and 106,26MPH@660

Pretty good if you ask me!

It's it, in the pictures below, and it really is a trail sled! Pump gas and all!
But, offcourse, in these pics it's strapped down for raceday! lol

1200 Drag ready.JPG 1200 Drag ready..JPG 1200 Engine bay.JPG
 
Last edited:
Just curious whos using what for a secondary clutch. Mountain or flatland. Im trying out a team clutch this weekend, hopefully its a close initial setup.
 
Scan back a few pages. It's been discussed.
Polaris button!

on a buddy of mines 1050 he went through polaris button secondaries like chit through a goose! Put a cat seconary on it and no more probs!

OTTAR, love the chrome pipes! Who did em for woody?
 
those pipes are off a sled i had two years ago they look tits keep up the good work love the power addiction stickers.

Brad
 
Ive had a cat button secondary from the start and got it working well now. Just want to see what the team can do.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top