DIY Watercraft thread

[Snowstar]

Well I got it all back together and this recoil housing I put on is way easier to pull over. I bought a good working used unit off of ebay and the only difference is it has the stock rope in it and I notched the housing out to go on with the wp belt in place. Got some more fantom rope on the way (thanks again 4Z). Going out today and see how she holds up

 

[flying pig]

I'll have to put up some pics of my new sled when I get the m-10 installed. Had my 1200 dynoed at The Mod Shop in grande prairie this fall, completely un ported with 44 lectrons and crankshops it made 204.2hp and 137ft lbs @7900rpm. Haven't touched anything in the motor yet this winter. Working good!
Have any of u guys figured out a way to make PERC work yet? The guy at the mod shop swears up and down we could do it. Brad said he had a programable ignition now, any chance in making the twin ignition work?
Anybody try high volume PSI 800 pipes yet? I found a pair but need the third pipe, might port to match....may also try Split Second pipes as well. A friend of mine had an 800 do 161 with Mod Shop porting and splits on the same dyno as mine. Might work? Splits are way too loud though...

 

[Snowstar]

RPM seems kinda low. These things like to run at 8200-8600 rpms.

 

[1200psi]

Hog Just Keep The Crank Shops Dont Wast Your Time On The Psi SSHHIITTTT It Any Better I Have Tryied The Both On 800s The The C/s Much Better Imo


Brad

 

[flying pig]

I'll take your word on that set Brad. I'd have to find a third pipe anyway. Gonna try the Splits though when they port it, that was a nice number on Trav's 800 and there's a lot of them around up here
Snowstar mines unported. Sorry it made peak hp @ 8100. peak torque at7800. 8300 rpm it was down to 197 and 125. All the runs showed the same result. I'm happy with it for this year.

 

[Snowstar]

Well it held together this trip. Belt is still slipping at full shift, I am going to throw some more weight at it and see what happens.

 

[sledstew]

pipes

Brad is right keep the crankshops, just make sure they are all the same length!!!

 

[sledstew]

torque arm

Run the rear torque arm with about .030 gap and run your motor forward a few thousandths so at full torque its perfectly inline with the belt.I run the ultimax 3 without any probs at 7000 ft + / Purple black secondary spring around 204 grams weight.

Are you guys running the stock polaris belts or like the sticky ultimax?
Also do you preload the rear torque stop mount or run it so it just touches the case?

 

[euge]

I run the PSI 1500 pipes 252HP and 169 ft. of torque hp @ 8250rpm, torque @ 7900 rpm Union bay dyno running fat case& cylinder ported 1200 non ves
I am running a P-85 w/ polaris belts

 

[mattymac]

finally took my monster out! Completely exceeded my expectations! TONS OF POWER AND TORQUE! INSTANT THROTTLE RESPONSE!! toally blown away with this beast!! everything worked great, motor, chassis, was a perfect combo for how we ride here in cali! Only a few minor things but rode all day without a hitch.

ended up with a speedwerx plain ti spring, 67g weights, red white/ 57/53 helix, 24/41 gears, 390 mains, but could drop a size along with the pilots. Still a b it rich but 950-1000 deg should have broken it in nicely!

spinning 8250 all day, PTO was a bit cooler may try to add a bit of pipe length back into it. Ended up with about 12 cuts on it, 7 or 8 on the mag pipe, and about 4-5 on the center pipe.

I would say for anyone doing the CS pipes get diffrent silencers! (smaller diameter) these are very big and harder to fit in the sled plus they are quieter than I would have liked but still sounds mean!

 

[R_8_N]

that thing is gonna be so loud after a half season. Mine is stupid loud. ears are still ringin from riding fri and sat.

 

[mattymac]

that thing is gonna be so loud after a half season. Mine is stupid loud. ears are still ringin from riding fri and sat.

do you have the CS 3" dia silencers?


BTW hows the new chassis?

 

[Snowstar]

I have the 3 inch silencers and it is pretty damn loud! I had to stick one of them in a vice and squeeze the end to clear the chaincase, so yes they are a tight fit. Matty sounds like you have about the same clutching setup as me. Are you using 10 series weights or something else? I have the MTX 68weights and ordered some rivets to add weights, or I might try some 70 g 10 series weights. Im heading to McCall this weekend to ride Sat and Sun. Any suggestions on where to go?

 

[mattymac]

I love the 10 series weights but I have a bunch of diffrent profile cat weights that I used. 10-68 will probably be my final weight since the snow was heavier than usual (and thats saying alot in cali) plus it was really rich and a bit warm so when the motor loosens up, leans out, and the snow gets better it will pull a bit more weight.

I used the mtx weights on a buddies cat I did and didnt care for them as much as the 10 series.

 

[R_8_N]

were gonna be in McCall mid to late feb, for 7 days if you can come up then it would be sweet. Upper parking lot is a good place to start for some nice riding.

I think mine are the 3" ones, there the small light wieght ones.

The chassi rocks. after 2 rides she only needed a few small tweeks on the trail to the rear skid.

 

[Snowstar]

Cool I might be able to do that. How about a w/c shootout How is that new tunnel treating ya, does it feel like a new machine?

 

[R_8_N]

we will show you a hell of a good time if you come to McCall with us. we'll have at least 2 or 3 1200s and 1 or 2 turbo apexes along with every mod twin from the other companys. its a fun trip



the M10 rear skid is awsome. with a small amount of adjusting I was able to tame the front end down alot and put alot more power to the ground. With the old stock rear skid the trail ride was very hard on my back and it would stand straight up on the trail.......fun but not practial. now with the M10 it feels like theres even more power there and it pulls harder since the power is being used rather than seein how far I can keep it on its tail...lol

I put some Ride FX Solo's on the fron with dual rate TI springs and I tell ya what......way nice, soaks up the bumps and easy to pull over in the pow. love how it handles now.

the tunnel took a little gettin use to since the running boards are wider and shorter with alot more kick in the back than the stock one, but it feels great. the square pieces on the edge of the pegs hold your boot in place very well. theres still a little snow build up in the pieces that ya stand on but nothing like a stock one. Cooled very well with the full length U cooler, ran max temp of 160 goin down the trail.


On a side note Jim ran the P85 all weekend and did better than expected.
Im running a team with the blk white spring and a 58/38 with the grey HRP spring in my HRP primary with 2 10/58s and 2 10/64s.

He was running the same secondary setup and same primary spring with 3 10/70s and it was rocking hard. I think it felt like it pulled harder than mine up the hill. His is ported and mine isn't. thats about the only difference in sleds. Last year when we would switch sleds they felt the same, and I beat him in a drag race last year too...

So Im thinkin about throwin a p85 in my pack this weekend with the 70s and swapin clutches on the hill to see what the real world difference is.

 

[richyrich]

Darren,

Im thinking on getting rid of my Cat secondary. I cant get rid of the heat and Im killing belts. Did you or Jim ever run the cat before you switched to the Team and what was the belt life difference.

Erin

 

[R_8_N]

I ran a team all last year and only blew 1 belt. ran all this last weekend on a belt with a cord hangin out of it...lol

Jim ran the cat last year and blew at least 6-8 belts, but he was trying a large amount of different setups so some of em were from being way off. He has about at least 5 days out on his team and not 1 blown belt so far. I think hes happy with it. we are using the 150 dollar belt.

IMO...unless your dragracing the team is plenty forgiving on the belts and I think they run a little cooler. I never have been climbing a long hill and lose my rpms due to the clutches getting to hot.

LOL I climbed that hill at Baker last spring from where they were racing all the way to the crater and the clutching never over heated but my sled wouldnt run when I got to the top, richened up to much. thats how high and long of a pull that is....you know.

 

[powdersledder]

Crank


There are several different ways to go about this.
One is to purchase a new crank that is built for this purpose. Many shops out there can supply them, I can supply anyone a new OEM crank.
Another way is to send two twin cranks to a shop like SLP in Idaho to have them rebuilt into your application. From some of the experts on these I have been told that the 70mm cranks do not need to be welded but the smaller 68mm ones do when buying new. Something about the "glue" on them is just as good as welding. I did not have my 70mm crank welded.
The PTO end should have a wide bearing (5207-ILT) and a narrow bearing (6207NX18). The narrow bearing being closest to the end should be of the type that incorporates a crank locating snap ring on it.
There is another snap ring (crank locator) that goes on the mag end. It sits in the case and not on a bearing. This is ring is needed if a twin housing is used and is used with a watercraft crank as well.
On the UBR style, a pto seal is used (Being a metal seal coated in rubber) and the little square nubbies cut off flush with a razor blade.

So can you run a watercraft crank or do you need one to be specially built when making a 1200?