The kit is a 2016. I had them reflash the box to the newer flash and I had my ECU flashed as well to match. I stopped up at Boondockers near the end of last season and they swapped out with a brand new box (they said it had the right flash).
Det Issue with '16 Axys and BD Sidekick
- Thread starter nater24
- Start date
The kit is a 2016. I had them reflash the box to the newer flash and I had my ECU flashed as well to match. I stopped up at Boondockers near the end of last season and they swapped out with a brand new box (they said it had the right flash).
Love it when a plan comes together. You're on the right track now, throw a boost gauge in this and verify.
The fix kit from MTNTK (great choice btw) "might" slightly raise squish by 0.002" - 0.003". I say might because out of 30 kits I have installed, I only saw this happen on earlier sleds and never had issues needing any more octane. 2011-2012's. I really don't think this is why your pump gas tuned BD Kit is detonating.
I have mic'd all shims and they always have measured the same.
People that bash the Fix Kit haven't ever run one or installed one. The added crankcase volume gives this motor the air it desperately needs. And with boost really makes for a much quicker revving and smoother engine. Added support from a longer skirt....Winning!!!
I'd be curious to know what exactly failed with your original crank before the Fix Kit was installed? Was it a rod bearing failure by chance?
The fix kit from MTNTK (great choice btw) "might" slightly raise squish by 0.002" - 0.003". I say might because out of 30 kits I have installed, I only saw this happen on earlier sleds and never had issues needing any more octane. 2011-2012's. I really don't think this is why your pump gas tuned BD Kit is detonating.
I have mic'd all shims and they always have measured the same.
People that bash the Fix Kit haven't ever run one or installed one. The added crankcase volume gives this motor the air it desperately needs. And with boost really makes for a much quicker revving and smoother engine. Added support from a longer skirt....Winning!!!
I'd be curious to know what exactly failed with your original crank before the Fix Kit was installed? Was it a rod bearing failure by chance?
How much compression in cylinder? And also was is possible that gas was old. Mixing some oil in also curbs det to a point. Pump gas and turbo is a dirty death sentence for a motor.
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Before putting the new motor in the sled I verified with Mtntk that the kit would infact increase the compression (I can't remember the numbers they gave me). I got the numbers from mtntk and then went back to BD with those numbers and they weren't worried at all because it was such a slight increase.
Great Question about what caused the failure. I've been meaning to update on that part as well. I took the bad motor to a motor guy and we took it apart together to see what was up. The crank was broken in half. He inspected the crank bearings, rod bearings, and crank seal and said that all of those where just fine. It's tough to know exactly what caused it. Could have been a weak crank I guess and when adding the detonation it caused it to come apart.
The dealer checked compression in each cylinder and each one read 120psi. Th dealer is at 5600 feet above sea level.
The fuel was fresh. Purchased the day before going up to ride.
Are you running the stock head?
Yes it’s the stock head
just me thinking out loud but if the crank volume was increased with the fix it kit that would allow a larger volume of air to pack in and with no changes to the mapping to match the new volume, that would cause a lean...er burn??? up your compression a touch and you might have enough of a change to cause a slight DET???
I don't know a lot about the fix it kits but do they change port timing at all???
I don't know a lot about the fix it kits but do they change port timing at all???
I'd ask mtntk if they change their map for the kit. Based on stock pistons or their fix kit ones.
Regarding added crank case air capacity, stock sleds with fix kit don't have any det issues, and turbo sleds it shouldn't change much? In theory your volume in should be the same as it's basically the air displaced by the piston coming down, reeds should be closed as I'm sure pressures exceed boost pressure when that happens. The kit doesn't change port timing, that's the idea of the shim.
Now I'm not sure but if he is running lean still, that super high octane fuel may also not detonate because it will burn colder and be less energetic fuel unless there's rhe compression present, so it may be burning slower too and not. Set off the det code? That's deff way beyond overkill for these engines octane wise, so just throwing that theory out there.
Mtntk said I should have to change anything with my kit as a result of having their Fix Kit in the motor but I didn't specifically ask if have to change anything on their turbo kits when adding the fix kit. I've got a gauge coming that will read the boost and the AFR so I can diagnose what is going on. The fact that 114 octane eliminated the det IS NOT a fix. It just helps to point me in the right direction for figuring out the problem.
I'm hoping to get both the AFR and Boost gauge on by the weekend but might only get to the boost part. Either way I'll report back what I find in hopes that it will help others.
The main pipe is thin, many from what I've seen my self included I put mine right out the turbo facing straight up.my kit It came in the bend on mine as its basically straight pipe so its a 90 out of turbo down, I found it didn't last too long from being blasted by water and oil in the corner, placing it upright made a big difference.
And good idea on the gauges, my sled never had gauges so when things go astray..... So it's been valuable for helping to diagnose.
This is where I put the O2 sensor on my 2019 BD Sidekick Switch kit. Previous model years have a different manifold and muffler. My sled is a 2016 Pro-RMK
The gauge I have is a Koso X2 (AFR, boost, temp), the one on the right.
The gauge I have is a Koso X2 (AFR, boost, temp), the one on the right.
This is where I put the O2 sensor on my 2019 BD Sidekick Switch kit. Previous model years have a different manifold and muffler. My sled is a 2016 Pro-RMK
The gauge I have is a Koso X2 (AFR, boost, temp), the one on the right.
Thanks richracer! My kit is the 2016 kit with the older muffler. I need to check if I have enough room after the turbo to put it there. I was wondering if this would be a good spot since it's so far from the engine. I guess the main thing is that it's in the hottest spot possible and I'm sure that's a pretty hot spot.
New O2 sensors have internal heaters, Mine reads after like 10 or 15 seconds even on a cold day. I Beleive the heater cycles to maintain temp for accuracy of O2 readings. Never had an issue with it down stream, I had a apex turbo I stuck it way back like 3inches from exhaust outlet, at idle it read false from oxygen but once you got on the throttle it was good, that spot was a cold one as well, as snow cools the exhaust off and like 4 feet from the engine haha!
Hopefully just a fuel issue then. I don't buy fuel at any pumps that I don't have history and know the 91 is fresh I carry all my fuel in a transfer tank mixed at 60 percent 100 AV. Gives a peace of mind
Hey nater, I had gotten out for a ride today and sled was setting det on me however it was from my spark plug caps being worn out, causing intermittent spark, just a thought as well! I had bought the ngk plug caps. But they sure don't last, going to spend the money on oem ones.
Just a thought for you as that can be overlooked and you just never know!
Just a thought for you as that can be overlooked and you just never know!
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