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TurboMatt
Well-known member
Yep, The harness I bought from off road rider has it hooked up to the red/dark green and brown wires.
DC Power on a PRO
- Thread starter off road rider
- Start date
Eric,
Were those fellows using a battery in the their "set-up" & if not did you confirm what wires were actually connected to on the e-start harness connector???
Thanks,
Glen
When talking to Daryl he pointed out that with a 30w hid light (ballast actually draws more on start up) there is enough draw on the circuit to get it going. Has anyone who can't get it to give juice tried plugging more stuff into it to see what happens?
Glen,
No batteries... one had a capacitor. all were 11's and 12's.
using the Red/Dk-Green... the brown wire in the harness PLUS another ground wire to chassis.
Are you grounding BOTH through the chassis AND the brown return wire?
What year is your sled?
Do you know of anyone that could loan you a regulator to plug in and try from another 11/12 sled (those plug into the 13's as well).
No batteries... one had a capacitor. all were 11's and 12's.
using the Red/Dk-Green... the brown wire in the harness PLUS another ground wire to chassis.
Are you grounding BOTH through the chassis AND the brown return wire?
What year is your sled?
Do you know of anyone that could loan you a regulator to plug in and try from another 11/12 sled (those plug into the 13's as well).
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Eric,
Both the '11 & the '12 machines that we tried this mod. on utilized the brown wire in the e-start harness connector & an additional ground tied to the over structure assy...................
It is possible that both machines have faulty charging regulator/rectifiers but seems unlikely especially considering that when the circuit receives voltage from a battery the charging regulator/rectifier immediately starts to deliver current on the DCV output & will do so(even with the battery removed) until the engine is shut off.................
We won't hesitate to buy new charging regulator/rectifiers if it can be confirmed, 100%, that there are people using this mod. with success & are indeed connected to proper circuits..............It just seems odd that so many others are encountering the same thing that we are???
BTW, did you happen to have any luck conjuring up any tech. info. on the charging regualtor/rectifiers???
Thanks,
Glen
Both the '11 & the '12 machines that we tried this mod. on utilized the brown wire in the e-start harness connector & an additional ground tied to the over structure assy...................
It is possible that both machines have faulty charging regulator/rectifiers but seems unlikely especially considering that when the circuit receives voltage from a battery the charging regulator/rectifier immediately starts to deliver current on the DCV output & will do so(even with the battery removed) until the engine is shut off.................
We won't hesitate to buy new charging regulator/rectifiers if it can be confirmed, 100%, that there are people using this mod. with success & are indeed connected to proper circuits..............It just seems odd that so many others are encountering the same thing that we are???
BTW, did you happen to have any luck conjuring up any tech. info. on the charging regualtor/rectifiers???
Thanks,
Glen
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
I know this question wasn't directed at me, but just want to throw in my .02. Mine's an '11. I grounded to both Brown wire & chassis.
I also tried putting on a spare USED regulator that I bought from a guy off SW. It acted the same way. Now there is obviously a chance that the used spare is "bad" too. Could these regulator's be going bad on sleds without batteries because nothing else is using this power? Do you think I'd be worth it to buy a new regulator to try it?
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
I did a little more playing around just now. I bought one of those Accel battery eliminator capacitors to play with. I hooked it up with just the capacitor, nothing. I touched a 9volt battery to the posts of the capacitor and immediately I started getting 14vdc to the circuit and my a/f & egt gauge lite rite up. I had to just touch the 9v battery to the circuit for a split second and it excited the circuit. When I shut the sled off, I watched the voltage drain out of the circuit. If I fired the sled back up before it got below 1vdc if would still send voltage to the circuit and my gauges would work. Once it got below 1vdc everything was dead again. Very strange. I'm not opposed to using a battery and relay to make this work, but id rather not it I can make it work much simpler. Then I have to find a spot to mount a small battery out of the way, this is the last resort.
If buying a new regulator will solve the problem ill do it in a heartbeat. I just don't feel like spending the $70 and the new regulator does the same thing and then I'm stuck with it.
Anyone have any other ideas?
If buying a new regulator will solve the problem ill do it in a heartbeat. I just don't feel like spending the $70 and the new regulator does the same thing and then I'm stuck with it.
Anyone have any other ideas?
That's exactly what we found - just a momentary voltage supply & away it goes.............
The small battery thing is not a "bad thing" ...it will help to stabilize the voltage for "clean" power to your components wired to it.
We'll be looking into this more and finding the proper alternatives... Day jobs and family demands permitting.
Enjoy the ride people!!
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We'll be looking into this more and finding the proper alternatives... Day jobs and family demands permitting.
Enjoy the ride people!!
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So if it just requires power to excite the circuit could you wire in a switch off of the acc plug to the e-start circuit, fire up the sled, toggle the switch to supply power and excite the circuit, then leave the switch off for the rest of the ride?
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
That is actually thought I had as well. But I start and stop my sled a lot in the course of a day. It seems like it would get old fast. The capacitor discaharges below 1vdc within a minute.
I'm no electrical genious by any means, but What would happen if you connected the 2 circuits? Possibly use a diode to at least seperate them in one direction? Just a thought I had, don't even know if you can do that.
One other question:
The DC PWR plug above the clutch: What kind of plug is this called? I want to buy a connector for wiring up my oil pump to the new battery I'm installing and what to keep all connectors intact in case I ever have to switch things back.
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That would definitely work with a "momentary on" style toggle or push button switch but it would require the operator to perform that step every single time they start the machine.............Somewhere along the line, we all would forget & then we'd be looking at replacing a turbo(if equipped)...............
Amp Mate N Lock connectors found here: http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=TERM045
Not 100% sure but I don't think connecting the 2 circuits would be a good idea as you would still be drawing amperage from the chassis circuit which is what we want to avoid.............Perhaps the "exitation" could be achieved through some type of a relay system tied in with the chassis relay trigger circuit but with the added complexity we'd be better off to stick with a battery & relay IMHO................
Small battery with a a modified electric start harness and painless wiring kit with three 10 amp fuses and a relay built in so you do not need a switch to turn power on and off, I wired in a L.E.D light as well to make sure oil pump is getting power. 2013 Pro with a 2013 Silber kit and have had zero issues of any kind. Constant 12v all the time, just running oil pump and AFR. relay is triggered by the power source that is up by the head light, other than that it is basic wiring. In this picture I was not quite done, ended up wire looming everything and turned out to be a pretty clean install.
Thanks for the info,
The set up that you've mentioned is what we're leaning towards as well...........
Currently we're using a fuse block(4 circuit) & the Polaris 4011114 capacitor but think we'll end up installing a battery & a relay triggered from the chassis circuit to supply power for the turbo oil pump, A/F ratio gauge, & indicator lights..............
On a side note, we're currently experimenting using a pressure switch(5 PSI) on the oil supply line for the turbo to control an LED indicator light for alerting the operator on the failure of the oil pump however there is not enough restriction to flow through the turbo to maintain enough pressure to keep the pressure switch open..............We're thinking that we'll have to install a wee bit of a restriction in the pressure line to the turbo so that there'll be enough back-pressure to trip our pressure switch providing it doesn't reduce the flow significantly.............
Thanks again
Glen
Merlin... I hear ya about knowing if your pump is working... for now... I'd be more worried if it is getting power all the time....maybe put in a tiny, ultra-bright, led into the dash to let you know that the pump is on.
you should be able to find a Stewart-Warner switch down to 1psi for the oil line.
you should be able to find a Stewart-Warner switch down to 1psi for the oil line.
That's basically what we've got now with our current system as we originally intended the light to be on in the abscence of oil pressure as a normal "idiot light" would..............Since there isn't enough back-pressure from the system to keep the contacts open on our current pressure switch(Honeywell 5000 series) the light stays on most all of the time with the exception of when the oil is cold in the morning at the first start up.................
Merlin... have you tried to put a larger amp draw on the circuit to see if it works... like a fan or a 55w light (or pair of fog lights etc)??
