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DC Power on a PRO

I hooked my wideband a/f and egt gauge up to it. I would assume this would be enough load? Still Nothing. I plan to hook a small battery and relay up to it to see if that solves the problem. At first I thought it was my sled, but have since heard reports from others that they are seeing the same thing so I'm thinking its not just my sled.
Id prefer to just use a capacitor so I didn't need a relay,but i just want to get this going so we'll see. I've been out riding the last 4 days just running everything off the acc power plug under the hood. I plan on getting at this soon when I get back. Will keep u posted.
 
Wow. Alot of knowledge put into this thread. I have an A/F gauge coming in tomorrow and going to install it. Sounds like the proper way is to get a battery with the ES harness and run a fuse block to power my Oil pump, AF Gauge, etc etc. Probably be a summer project. As for now ill probably just tap my A/F gauge in somewhere and re wire the sled later. Any suggestions for the A/F gauge on a boondockers turbo? would the fan on the intercooler be a good spot
 
Update................

FYI,


Plan "A" using the red/dark green wire from the e-start connector with the Polaris 4011114 capacitor installed in parallel as a solution for an aux. DCV source failed................

Our testing revealed that the charging regulator/rectifier will not output current on the red wire(DC output) unless there is already voltage present in the circuit..............

We found that if we temporarily connected a battery to the circuit, the regulator/rectifier would immediately start out-putting current on the red wire & would continue to do so even after the battery was unhooked.............It would continue to power our loads without issue until we shut the engine off & re-started it - At that point the regulator/rectifier would not start charging until we "excited" the red wire(red/dark green) again with the battery..............

I can't answer why the charging regulator/rectifier operates this way but it appears that a battery & a relay may be required in order for this modification to work properly.............


Hope this helps,


Glen
 
FYI,


Plan "A" using the red/dark green wire from the e-start connector with the Polaris 4011114 capacitor installed in parallel as a solution for an aux. DCV source failed................

Our testing revealed that the charging regulator/rectifier will not output current on the red wire(DC output) unless there is already voltage present in the circuit..............

We found that if we temporarily connected a battery to the circuit, the regulator/rectifier would immediately start out-putting current on the red wire & would continue to do so even after the battery was unhooked.............It would continue to power our loads without issue until we shut the engine off & re-started it - At that point the regulator/rectifier would not start charging until we "excited" the red wire(red/dark green) again with the battery..............
I can't answer why the charging regulator/rectifier operates this way but it appears that a battery & a relay may be required in order for this modification to work properly.............


Hope this helps,


Glen
I did some testing with a 12v motorcycle battery I had laying around as well a couple days ago. I found the same exact thing on my 2011.
I bought a capacitor the other day from the local cycle shop and I'm gonna try that. If that doesn't work(which I'm assuming It won't because you said you couldnt get it to work) I also picked up a small 2"x2"x4" 12vdc battery and waterproof relay to use.

I don't understand how Cyclops performance got their lights to work off this circuit????
 
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Is this for all years or is this a new thing for the '13's?

The above info is what we found on the '11 & '12 machines that we we're working on................I believe the '13 may have a different electrical system???

I don't understand how Cyclops performance got their lights to work off this circuit????

That is the question of day for sure! :face-icon-small-win

We used the Polaris 4011114 capacitor but perhaps there are other types that may work for this application???

All it seems to take is a momentary voltage supply to "excite" the rectifier & from that point it seems to charge fine until the engine is shut off..........
 
During our testing we ran from the plug directly to an HID aux light then increased the amount of lights for the final pull.
I saw no issue. Hopefully I can get my hands on another Pro here this week.
and duplicate what you guys are seeing.
 
During our testing we ran from the plug directly to an HID aux light then increased the amount of lights for the final pull.
I saw no issue. Hopefully I can get my hands on another Pro here this week.
and duplicate what you guys are seeing.

If you managed to supply power to a 12VDC load from the red/dark green wire on the e-start harness connector without the use of a battery, you've done something that 3 of us haven't been able to do with our machines..............

Maybe you are connected to red/white wire that is also found in the e-start harness connector??? We we're able to obtain power from that wire however that is the chassis electrical system & is the same circuit as the DC Power plug on the L.S. of the machine.............Getting away from using that circuit was the whole point of this modification................

:face-icon-small-con
 
If you managed to supply power to a 12VDC load from the red/dark green wire on the e-start harness connector without the use of a battery, you've done something that 3 of us haven't been able to do with our machines..............

Maybe you are connected to red/white wire that is also found in the e-start harness connector??? We we're able to obtain power from that wire however that is the chassis electrical system & is the same circuit as the DC Power plug on the L.S. of the machine.............Getting away from using that circuit was the whole point of this modification................

:face-icon-small-con

Please give me a bit more credit than that. A bit insulting isnt it? I take it you hadn"t read the entire thread here?
We are building harnesses that power our DC powered lights from the estart circuit. No Battery No relay just good DC power. Lots of guys are running them with no issues.
 
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Please give me a bit more credit than that. A bit insulting isnt it? I take it you hadn"t read the entire thread here?
We are building harnesses that power our DC powered lights from the estart circuit. No Battery No relay just good DC power. Lots of guys are running them with no issues.

Insulting you was not my intention & if you happened to notice I've become involved in this thread quite a few posts back..............

I can't see how you are able to power a load from the red/dark green wire without the use of a battery??? We tried it on 2 separate sleds('11 & '12) ourselves & got the same results - We needed to connect a battery in parallel in order to get the regulator/rectifier to output current............

I've received several PMs from other forum members who have experienced the exact same thing.............

If you don't mind, could you elaborate on how your system is connected - as in which wires are you "tapped" into in the e-start connector???

Thanks,

Glen
 
Insulting you was not my intention & if you happened to notice I've become involved in this thread quite a few posts back..............

I can't see how you are able to power a load from the red/dark green wire without the use of a battery??? We tried it on 2 separate sleds('11 & '12) ourselves & got the same results - We needed to connect a battery in parallel in order to get the regulator/rectifier to output current............

I've received several PMs from other forum members who have experienced the exact same thing.............

If you don't mind, could you elaborate on how your system is connected - as in which wires are you "tapped" into in the e-start connector???

Thanks,

Glen


I'm a bit hesitant to comment here without first testing. It is fairly Normal to need a battery or another Draw in a system to see power. Remember I'm running Lights with at least a 30 watt Draw so the system powers up fine, Without a draw the system wont put out any power. What I think is going on is that what you guys are trying to run will not pull enough draw so a battery is most likely necessary. I have set up a few customers with a small NMHD battery a battery bag and the harness we make. I should hear from them later this week and also hopefully get my own testing done.
I am attempting to help with a solution for you guys.
 
I'm a bit hesitant to comment here without first testing. It is fairly Normal to need a battery or another Draw in a system to see power. Remember I'm running Lights with at least a 30 watt Draw so the system powers up fine, Without a draw the system wont put out any power. What I think is going on is that what you guys are trying to run will not pull enough draw so a battery is most likely necessary. I have set up a few customers with a small NMHD battery a battery bag and the harness we make. I should hear from them later this week and also hopefully get my own testing done.
I am attempting to help with a solution for you guys.


We are not only testing this with a meter, we have tried adding loads to the circuit in an attempt to get it to charge:

- Turbo oil pump
- A/F ratio gauge(in pre-heat mode as well)
- Small 12 VDC water pump(with a known power consumption of 30W or more)
- Other misc. 12VDC accessories

When measuring open circuit voltage with a meter, voltage may be anywhere from 3.5 to 5..................The second any load is connected to the red/dark green wire, the voltage drops to 0V....................The only way that the charging regulator/rectifier will output current is if voltage is applied to the red/green wire(red wire on the actual regulator/rectifier).................Once voltage(battery) is applied to the red/dark green wire the system charges fine, in fact, the battery can be removed & the system appears that it would continue to charge forever until the engine is shutoff which may be due the capacitor we had installed in the system.............


Can you please confirm what wires you are connecting to on the e-start harness connector???


Thanks again,


Glen
 
We are not only testing this with a meter, we have tried adding loads to the circuit in an attempt to get it to charge:

- Turbo oil pump
- A/F ratio gauge(in pre-heat mode as well)
- Small 12 VDC water pump(with a known power consumption of 30W or more)
- Other misc. 12VDC accessories

When measuring open circuit voltage with a meter, voltage may be anywhere from 3.5 to 5..................The second any load is connected to the red/dark green wire, the voltage drops to 0V....................The only way that the charging regulator/rectifier will output current is if voltage is applied to the red/green wire(red wire on the actual regulator/rectifier).................Once voltage(battery) is applied to the red/dark green wire the system charges fine, in fact, the battery can be removed & the system appears that it would continue to charge forever until the engine is shutoff which may be due the capacitor we had installed in the system.............



Can you please confirm what wires you are connecting to on the e-start harness connector???


Thanks again,


Glen
I did the same exact testing using the harness that I bought from you(off road rider). You can fire the sled up with the battery hooked up, then unhook the battery and everything stays on(no capacitor installed). Once I turn the sled off, and then restart it nothing will come back on till I hook the battery back up.
 
The charging/lighting regulator-rectifier is not affected by the chassis relay.

With a battery in there, you have good clean DC of ample amperage to power up your items safely.

for those that don't have a battery... I recommend using a capacitor in the line to help smooth out the DC supply from this regulator... Fast and simple.

Eric,


What are your thoughts on all of this???

As you've read in some of our posts, we aren't able to get the charging regulator/rectifier to output current on the red wire(red/dark green wire at the e-start connector) unless we momentarily apply voltage to the circuit - Having a capacitor &/or any load in the circuit has no effect on this...........

I've looked but haven't been able to find any literature on the 'net regarding the operation of the charging regulator/rectifier to confirm if the DCV output must see voltage in order to output current but it sure seems that way.............

Installing a battery & relay wouldn't be the end of the world but it'd be nice to do this conversion with the least amount of components as possible..........


Your input on this thread is greatly appreciated, thanks,


Glen
 
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I did the same exact testing using the harness that I bought from you(off road rider). You can fire the sled up with the battery hooked up, then unhook the battery and everything stays on(no capacitor installed). Once I turn the sled off, and then restart it nothing will come back on till I hook the battery back up.

Matt,


Would you mind confirming which wires the extension harness is connected to(on the sled side of the e-start connector)???

I'm assuming its the red w/dark green tracer & the brown but I'd like to know for sure...........


Thanks,


Glen
 
Matt,


Would you mind confirming which wires the extension harness is connected to(on the sled side of the e-start connector)???

I'm assuming its the red w/dark green tracer & the brown but I'd like to know for sure...........


Thanks,


Glen

Glen, checked mine and it's on the red/dark green but haven't tried mine yet got one last thing to hook up before pulling the rope. curious to see what goes.
 
I've talked with some that it is working fine for... and others on this thread that it is not.

HMMM.


.
 
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