Nub... what are you trying to do with your power?
Lights, turbo, fan etc???
Lights, turbo, fan etc???
DC Power on a PRO
- Thread starter off road rider
- Start date
N
Nubulin
Well-known member
Oil pump
Secondary injector
Boost solenoid
Innovate digital boost gauge
Innovate wideband
About 4-4.5 amps total at WOT
Instructions having that running off the DC power in right now (with fuse inline). I would imagine it would be fine, but running off the other DC coil sounds better. Rectified AC won't work because of the common ground from the ECU for boost solenoid, injector, and wideband data in.
So, I either run via the DC pwr, or IF the 13 is the same as 12, put in a battery and run off that coil.
I have a service manual coming, so the wiring diagram will make it more clear.
I just installed my innovate wideband but first i hooked it up to the battery and attached an amp clamp. just the gauge itself it was drawing .4 to .6 amps. gauge with the 02 sensor hooked up, as the 02 heated up it was drawing 1.6 amps. Did this multiple times and still comes up with 1.6 max amps drawn. so I hooked it up to the dc plug at the headlight harness. so after seeing the turbo company is hooking up all the electronic to the dc plug by the primary clutch. think about how many amps you are drawing off that single plug.
Nub,
I have the diagram today...
Get the ES sub-harness... plug it into the harness, hook up a compact battery from Murph or above ... ground the battery to the chassis (like in a stock ES PRO) and then run the fuses and your additional loads from there...At that point, your grounds are all common.
CyclopsMotorsports will also have a plug in harness with a capacitor as well.
Good luck.
I have the diagram today...
Get the ES sub-harness... plug it into the harness, hook up a compact battery from Murph or above ... ground the battery to the chassis (like in a stock ES PRO) and then run the fuses and your additional loads from there...At that point, your grounds are all common.
CyclopsMotorsports will also have a plug in harness with a capacitor as well.
Good luck.
Too many... if you cant do it through the 2amp fuse without it blowing the fuse... use the Charge/lighting coil and run a small battery there.
I would not want to run anything off of the same Regulator that is controlling the ECU and other "vitals".
..
I have made up some simple harnesses running from the battery charging circuit for the pros. they include a 10 amp fuse. and plug directly into the factory connector under the right side body panel.
Ive tested with our HID lights and it works great. I pulled 8 amps and it appeared more was possible.
WE can add a small NMHD battery or a capacitor to the harness if stability is required.
What type of plug or wire termination do you guys feel would work best for your certain application?
Ive tested with our HID lights and it works great. I pulled 8 amps and it appeared more was possible.
WE can add a small NMHD battery or a capacitor to the harness if stability is required.
What type of plug or wire termination do you guys feel would work best for your certain application?
dc power
so i have a 13 pro and it has the dc power on the clutch side and it has the acc plug by the headlight but the wires are red-yellow and brown and have no power to them and there is no fuse on the cover by the clutch like the older models and i cant find a fuse anywhere in the harness so does anyone no where to find this or how to get power to this plug thanks just need to run an air fuel guage off it thanks
so i have a 13 pro and it has the dc power on the clutch side and it has the acc plug by the headlight but the wires are red-yellow and brown and have no power to them and there is no fuse on the cover by the clutch like the older models and i cant find a fuse anywhere in the harness so does anyone no where to find this or how to get power to this plug thanks just need to run an air fuel guage off it thanks
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
I have a couple questions: I am somewhat electrically challenged so please bear with me:
I want to power my turbo oil pump, wideband a/f, Deobeck box and EGT gauge on a Silber Turbo. 2011 Pro RMK.
This premade harness by Cyclops seems like the way to go because Its plug and play. Will I get good dc voltage to power everything up with this harness(the one with the capacitor inline)? Or does a battery have to be added to? I'd rather not add a battery if I don't need to(I want to keep things simple) . I don't need these items powered up if the sled isn't running. Why would I need a battery?
thanks
The plug that says "DC PWR" is NOT a place to draw power from... It is a TEST plug used for diagnosis.
IMO, strongly, do not use the plug marked "DC Power" unless you can limit that to 2 amps including whatever load you are putting on the "ACC" plug.
The ACC plug has a fuse... The "DC PWR" TEST plug does not and they are both connected to the same red/white wire junction
Matt.
Try to stay away from powering anything off of the ACC plug if you can avoid it... and never use the "DC PWR" TEST plug to power anything... Unless you put a fuse on it and limit the combined load between that and the ACC plug to MAX 2 amps...
Never increase the size of the fuse in the ACC fuse holder (looks like a capped connector with red/white and red/yellow wires coming out of it)
.
Try to stay away from powering anything off of the ACC plug if you can avoid it... and never use the "DC PWR" TEST plug to power anything... Unless you put a fuse on it and limit the combined load between that and the ACC plug to MAX 2 amps...
Never increase the size of the fuse in the ACC fuse holder (looks like a capped connector with red/white and red/yellow wires coming out of it)
.
already got mine on, its sweet. Plugs right in, out of the way, easy easy!
Thanks Darrell for putting the time in to make sweet lights and easy plug n play connectors!
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
I received my plug in harness today and want to hook it up. I am still running the stock headlights and am going use this to power all my turbo stuff: doebeck box, wideband a/f & EGT gauge. Will There be enough available power on this headlight circuit? Will I need to unplug my lights to free up power? Is there an easy way to hook a switch up to the headlights so I can have them off during the day and just turn them on when I need them?
I'm just spitballing here(I haven't look at any wiring diagrams) but could I say cut the wire going to the switch for the low beams so that I only have high beams when its switched to that, but if I switch the switch to low beams it turns all light off(or vise vera). I don't need the lights on during the day. Im just trying to take as much load off the electrical system as I can.
thanks
I'm just spitballing here(I haven't look at any wiring diagrams) but could I say cut the wire going to the switch for the low beams so that I only have high beams when its switched to that, but if I switch the switch to low beams it turns all light off(or vise vera). I don't need the lights on during the day. Im just trying to take as much load off the electrical system as I can.
thanks
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
So I was able to get the harness installed today. I can't get power off of it though. I already talked to Daryl(not sure about spelling) from Cyclops. He says there should be power there at the plug. Anyone have any ideas why I don't have 12vdc power? I tried swapping the regulator with a spare used one I had and got the same result. Is there a fuse or something?
What I'm seeing is kind of strange. I will get 4-5vdc when the sled is idling, but when if I rev it up the voltage drops down to 1-2vdc. I don't understand why this would be happening.
How would I go about checking the AC voltage coming in? What else could be wrong? Is there a chance just both of my regulators are the same?
What I'm seeing is kind of strange. I will get 4-5vdc when the sled is idling, but when if I rev it up the voltage drops down to 1-2vdc. I don't understand why this would be happening.
How would I go about checking the AC voltage coming in? What else could be wrong? Is there a chance just both of my regulators are the same?
T
thewayout
Member
We were also susprised when checking the red/grn wire and finding 2-3 volts. My buddy figured out the charging system needs to see a power source before it will deliver 14 volts. He tested it by connecting a battery. I havn't started my sled yet but hoping the capacitor we installed will work as the battery.
Yup, open circuit voltage test between the red/dark green & brown/ground wires was 3.5V @ idle & seemed to decrease with higher engine RPM..............
The red/dark green & brown/ground wires from the e-start harness must be connected to either a battery or capacitor, in parallel with the load(aux. headlight, A/F gauge, turbo oil pump, etc.), in order for the battery charge regulator/rectifier to produce current...............Not sure how it "works" internally but the regulator/rectifier needs to see voltage from it's DC output in order to produce current..............
You can confirm the charging system integrity by simply connecting the red/dark green & brown/ground wires to a small 12V battery & then connecting a known load(something under 10 amps) to the circuit in parallel - With the engine running & battery and known loads connected, the voltage should maintain at 13 - 13.5V or higher................
AC voltage can be checked at the yellow wire at the connector for the battery charge regulator/rectifier - Should be 16VAC @ idle & should increase with RPM..............
At least that is what we found with our experimentation...............
Darryl has some compact little NiMH battery packs that will work very well and have been proven in Moto use.
Check out Post 59 above for small battery .. heck... read the whole thread!
Merry Christmas to all!!
Check out Post 59 above for small battery .. heck... read the whole thread!
Merry Christmas to all!!
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So it will work with just a compactor or does it have to have a battery?
