CRANK'N my 06 900

[Lake Cle Elum]

I'm no oil specialist, but I'd venture a guess that synthetics are much more appropriate for a 4 stroke engine that uses a lubrication system that recirculates oil whereas a 2 stroke engine is a "constant loss" type system where oil is burned and not re-used. In a 4 stroke, the oil needs to keep dirt and deposits in suspension so the filter can remove it along with not breaking down on the cylinder walls and in the bearings because the oil is constantly being recirculated until you do an oil change.
Just my $0.02 worth

I agree and I'll add another thought.....A "big deal" in 4-stroke engines is the ability of the oil to withstand high temp's w/o breaking down. Not an issue with a 2-stroke......

 

[DanB]

Wash Tub,....... Water as hot as you can stand it with Dawn dish soap. Brass wire brush and scrub the bottom & sides of the belt until its starts to turn white.

Then drive the sled easy for a few miles and let it get ( Lets say HAPPY!! ! ) and then your ready to go!!!!!!!

I can't agree strongly enough with this. Wanna see a dirty primary clutch faces? Throw on a new belt without scrubbing it and watch all the rubber preservative work its way into the clutch faces.

The only thing I'll add is don't forget to do this to your spare belt (including breaking it in).

 

[Clarke673]

Always enjoy reading Indydan's posts, very informative.

To: I own u
I can't believe that you'd charge somebody to help unstick their sled, if it took all day to get it out, then that would be a different story

He gave me a $100, i didn't ask for it but when some one gives you $100 you take it.

 

[Mainer]

id like to thank indy dan. alot of guys i ride with have switched over fo Walmart Supertech tcw3 oil for 9 dollars a gallon but i have been skeptical. im now convinced and will be switching over. youve saved this college kid alot of money!

 

[GKR]

Dan,
I noticed you discounted Amzoil very quickly in this discussion and I do not want to start the Amzoil debate in any way. I would like to clarify one thing tho, is the issue you see with Amzoil primarily with storage and corrosion only? What about its lubricating ability. The reason I ask now is that I was using Pol Gold and was about to switch to Amzoil strictly from the price perspective. I am less worried about corrosion as the sled is stored indoors in a heated shop year round. I may end up going to Dino now anyway since your thread does make sense to me but wanted to get your opinion on the question above.
Thanks

 

[ditchrider]

My Oils of choice

#1 - The cheap Castrol Oil
#2 - OLD Polaris BLUE ( Not the new stuff )
#3 - Old green Cat Petroleum OIL )

Dan, I noticed that you left the Ski Doo mineral oil off of the list. Was this simply an oversight, or was there a reason. The new Poo Blue oil, I can see as it's a semi-synthetic...

 

[Lake Cle Elum]

Years ago, a CAT dealer told me their oil was the same as Havoline 2-stroke oil sold by Texaco. I used to buy a case of six 1-Gal. jugs from him for $42. I have a few gallons left.......... Hmmmmmmmmm

 

[Dogmeat]

Years ago, a CAT dealer told me their oil was the same as Havoline 2-stroke oil sold by Texaco. I used to buy a case of six 1-Gal. jugs from him for $42. I have a few gallons left.......... Hmmmmmmmmm

Same as the Polaris oil or Amsoil?

 

[BIG JOHN]

GREAT info and then some Dan....

They can't tell you what oil to run and they CAN'T VOID your warranty because you run better oil.

We have run full mod motors with NOS turning RPM"s past the 9000 rpm mark with the good old fashion oil, I would think of trying that with VES GOLD.

If your worried about your dealer seeing another collor in the oil lines and hanging you out to dry ( Becasue they think its oil related ) by all means don't change.

Put it this way.............. There is more connecting rod ( Failure ) & wear now then there was back when the motors were WAY smaller and the components were being stressed much harder in relation to their size of todays motors.

Now days its bad fuel and bad oil.

There are motors failing all over the country with this VES Gold oil, Problems I have not seen until this oil came to market. ( Its money all about money ) and cleaner valves.

Both your sleds will be fine with the same old fashion oil. They will be better.

AFTER years of seeing/fixing bad DOO cranks and with a dozen motors in my shop now with big rod end bearing failures ALL were using bla bla synthetic this or bla bla synthetic that or Amsoil (have hated Amsoil for long time now)...I refuse to believe the new oils are any better...like Dan...I see/believe they are worse....I'm OFF the Blue Marble band wagon and have switched back the DOO mineral (similar to poo's base oil) for many reason....FYI- cleaning exhaust valves is called "maintanence"...LOL.

As for personal sled warm up routine..I'm the FIRST guy out of the cabin (especially when purging diesel from my sled = long FUNNY story)....lift back of sled with track stand...fire up sled and proceed to "warm up" engine/clutches/belt....run till that stat opens and engine is a solid 100 degrees plus....shut sled off add 1 gallon of race fuel and top off oil (I dont add oil to gas BUT oil pump is tuned to use 1 QT oil per tank of fuel = 32-1)...verify belt deflection/inspect under hood thingy's...when the rest of group comes out and I'm ready to go top off the tank and ride...BJ

 

[BIGGDAWG]

id like to thank indy dan. alot of guys i ride with have switched over fo Walmart Supertech tcw3 oil for 9 dollars a gallon but i have been skeptical. im now convinced and will be switching over. youve saved this college kid alot of money!

just to let everyone know we have a 98 700 rmk with 6500 miles on the original crank and bottom end, have used nothing but walmart supertech oil.

 

[ericchile]

So just to be sure this cheap castrol oil or walmart supertech is ok to run in Fuel Injected sleds like the 05 900 rmk right? I can see the reasoning in using mineral oil vs sync. I would just hate to make a bad choice on a new sled vs an older one.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

well after dan's posts i am switching to the walmart oil in my 900

 

[LSB]

I want to throw a new question in here for Dan concerning oil. This thread (as far as the oil part has been concerned) has focused on mineral vs. synthetics but do you have any experience or thoughts on Castor Oils like the Maxima 927. I know its a form of the Castor Oils which are SUPPOSED to be great for seeking out hot spots and lubricity. The 927 seems like it has some other additives in it as well like maybe some corrosion inhibitors etc. I do know the Castors arent the cleanest oils but Im not concerned about keeping power valves clean. My main concern is that they lose their mixing ability with gasolines in colder temps. Soooo, do you or anyone else reading this have experience with 927 or other Castor oils in our engines?

 

[hilinerider]

i would be concerned with castor oil flowing properly in cold temps.

 

[LSB]

blendzall seems to be a castor blend as well, and yes thats what im worried about, how the castor would perform in the lower temps. flowing AND mixing

 

[indydan]

Castor base oils

i would be concerned with castor oil flowing properly in cold temps.

HiLinerider is correct,

Castor base oil will NOT flow thru an oil injector pump when its winter time. I have tried it back in the mid 80's " Klotz 20% Castor Bean oil "

with fatal results to the motor, repeated times until I figured it out.

Castor is great summer oil premix only.

Dan

 

[Dbook]

HiLinerider is correct,

Castor base oil will NOT flow thru an oil injector pump when its winter time. I have tried it back in the mid 80's " Klotz 20% Castor Bean oil "

with fatal results to the motor, repeated times until I figured it out.

Castor is great summer oil premix only.

Dan

Castor oil even as a pre-mix will seperate from the fuel in cold condition's. That is the down fall to it GREAT oil but will not tolerate the cold even when pre-mixed.

This is off of Maxima's site concerning 927:

[FONT=verdana, geneva, arial, sans serif]Caution[/FONT]

[FONT=verdana, geneva, arial, sans serif]Not intended for use in oil injection systems. When blending with alcohol it normally requires more oil. Care must be exercised when blending with low specific gravity (below 0.730) race gasoline and in temperatures below 35ºF as separation may occur. Separation may also occur in alcohol containing a high percentage of nitromethane. Check before using. [/FONT]

 

[LSB]

ok well that settles that then! sounded like a promising oil, too bad about its downsides, I guess I was hoping the 927 or others had newer additives that somehow overcame those drawbacks. Guess not.

 

[zimms]

I'm looking at the phillips injex 2 stroke oil, it has all the requirements and a pour point of -51. Has anyone used this oil before?

 

[ditchrider]

The only thing about Injex is that it is only rated JASO FB... This does not make it a bad oil, but because it doesn't pass the JASO FC rating, it will have more smoke to it. Starting at JASO FC, oils had to pass a more stringent exhaust smoke test. JASO FB,FC,FD and ISO EGB,C&D all have the same lubricity properties. What separates them is things like smoke output and detergents....