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Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

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What I'm trying to do is talk myself into building another Turbo set-up without sacrificing the Nitrous.

Just wondering if pressurized fuel bowls from the Boondocker set up & the dial a jet would work alright hand in hand.

I did a Aerocharger on my 02' RMK 800 years ago w/dial a jets & the set up was great. But the fuel bowls were not pressurized like they are now .

So in short--When off nitrous dial a jet delivering x amount of fuel. OK-- When bowls pressurized from Boondocker I would assume delivery would change. Am I missing something here ? Just curious of an overlap in tuning.

Thanks--Proflow

If you still think you need NO2 after a well set-up turbo 2-stroke. Then just go with a standalone wet system. I had the same mind set of you that I was going to use NO2 on the bottom end to help spool the turbo. After some trial and error with the clutching there is no need for that. If think your not going fast enough just turn the boost up and add better fuel.
 
No need to run nitrous with the turbo runing correctly. Want power at the push of a button put a mbc on with a solenoid inline. Then you will have gate pressure and whatever increased presure you choose with the mbc on a solenoid.
Dry kit you have to run fat all the time for it to run correct on the nitrous. Their are ways to add fuel with efi just when runing nitrous. Just depends on the application how you have to go about doing it. Wet on a turbo system you need to do something different with the fuel. Most wet kits run a 3-5psi fuel pump. 10lbs of boost and a 5psi fuel pump does not work. I was runing 12lbs on a supercharged gsxr 1000 and taped into the fuel presure going to the injectors. 43psi base and 1:1 with boost. Just had to jet way down on the fuel jets in the wet kit. Actually worked great. Going to try it on a NA gsxr 1000 this year.
I guess you could also tap into the float bowls on a carbed sled to get fuel for the wet kit. I don't think it would be worth the time, weight, and expense. Just turn the boost up a little more.
 
Its gonna be tough pulling the Nitrous off ! I just love that stuff !!!
I do however have other toys I could put the system on.

OK, so Ive been hunting a few turbos on the net & am thinking maybe a T3/T4 Hybred Garrett or Holeset Ball Bearing might be best. For those of you who have spent more time than I have trying to source out best auto turbo for the application, please chime in. It would be greatly appreciated-----Proflow
 
Thank you, that's exactly the info I was looking for.

I'll be hunting one of them down here soon. maybe you could fine tune for me between them if you knew what I rode ! Sorry about that, I thought it was in my sig.

Sled is an 03' Verticle Escape 800. Bought new & started doing the simple stuff right away-such as : Holts trailing arms, Tyson radious rods 43", W.E. air shocks, Simmons skis, Skid Plate, Removed sway bar, Mesh hood, Self fabbed steering neck w/Taper bars, Left throttle, Cannondale brake res, Self ported jugs, Cheater head, Self milled head cover, (engine & chain case all pollished) SLP cold air, SLP coated single pipe & MBRP can, 19/41 HYVO, Clutched correctly, Boondocker Nitrous, Self built Two wheel kit, Self ported 159 Camo track, LED tail light frenched into rear grab bar. I know I'm leaving some stuff out, but its been a long day !

The Aerodyne set-up I put together in 02' was only a 53. Bought it used w/an experimental intercooler/air box etc. for the right price & fabbed it all together into a wonderfull package. In fact it went over Jackson Hill Climb That winter !

Thanks again , time to start hunting ! -------Proflow
 
zr/mc base running need everything else...

Not sure if there is anyone making a kit, but I think CPI had some parts(air box, oil tank, pumps, etc).

I suspect you will need a bigger turbo. Gus could tell you.

Lots of the m1000s use a Garrett GT3071 turbo. I'm running a Cutler M7-1000 big bore and the GT2876 seems to be working real nice.

Good luck, it's fun, but very time consuming at first.
 
wow just read all 13 pages what a wealth of info might have inspired me to do a turbo build if i do i will be in contact with you devil you are running the same sled and elevations i am. 2 questions i believe you said somewhere you had to wire in a voltage regulator can you explain more on where you got it and how it wires in. 2nd what do you think about a .60/.63 how does it compare to a 16g or a 2860? i will get more info on that turbo as per model tomorrow hopefully thanks in advance cheers :beer;

EDIT is anyone running an external wastegate turbo? and if not has it just not been done before or just added weight?
 
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question about pump gas for my turbo

2008 RMK 600 turbo with a highmark recreation turbo running at its lowest setting (around 9 pounds boost).

I ride 4,000 to 8,000 feet and i don't ride when the temps drop below 0 F. I currently have the highmark carb setup and clutching with 310 mains.

do I have to run 110 or can I add some premium? What would be a safe mixture?
 
I'm wondering the same thing. What dictates what octane you need for a motor? Is it based on pressure? or compression ratio or?? Can it be determined in some fashion like jetting is?

I also have some more feedback on my carb float bowl pressure port source. I had moved the carb ports over to a corner of the airbox away from the (obvious) flow path. I used a single fitting(1/8") on the air box for each carb with a t to join the two vent lines to it. What a difference. I had a great day today. I needed to keep the big main jets, but i dropped the needle jet and was also able to start closing the power jets down.

It was so much more preditable that it gave me enough confidence to turn the boost up to 10 psi for part of the day. Even worked like a champ in the trees. Everything went very well..............tested/rode with a T1200 all day. Had some great comparisons............yahoooooooooooooo
 
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question about pump gas for my turbo

2008 RMK 600 turbo with a highmark recreation turbo running at its lowest setting (around 9 pounds boost).

I ride 4,000 to 8,000 feet and i don't ride when the temps drop below 0 F. I currently have the highmark carb setup and clutching with 310 mains.

do I have to run 110 or can I add some premium? What would be a safe mixture?

anyone??
 
Flatland setup

This is perfect for GUS are you still around?


I converting my CPI REV from altitude to flatlands for the rest of the year. I currently run 300 mains with airbox powerjets at 1.5 turns for 7500' of altitude and up. My question is should I adjust the mains the same as a NA sled for 1000' I usually start with a ten size increase on a NA sled. Should I keep my powerjets at 1.5 or do I need to increase those as well?

1 more question on Doo reeds I need a new set and need boots as well, how are the Boysen turbo reeds working or any other options. And where is everyone taking the BOV reference from? The reed boot?

Thanks Paul
 
Props to Tony and Christopher/snowest..I'm back for your entertainment..LOL:face-icon-small-ton

low altitude with stock carbs, 400 mains. leave pjets alone till in the field.

raise needles one clip from oem for low altitude,
I use either oem 600 ho carbs reed gage /boot assys . double up the oem carbon reeds. Still one same set, 4 years old now, constatnt 20-22 psi boost.

pull bov signal from cast flat spot on mag carb adjacent to choke plunger.. drill and tap and be done with it.
I am testing an XP system with a bov and carb to pressure source. if a little lean it still runns on till you hit the brake. staya little rich and be good to go.

I have redomed the heads for 11.1, .080 squish MINIMUM if you plan on using pump 91 for fuel..115 psi cranking pressure..with valves locked open.
-2 degrees timing for 91 also..

I don't endorse boyesen for anything or any reason. HYPE !

you can easily convert to cat f series reed cages by usig the oem spacer from the ho doo. the bolt pattern is identical and you get far more mid to top power with a single v cage under boost.

External waste gates are harder to fit cleanly at low cost of the production line type kits out now.
external for big boost stuff and the ATP ulitmate internal gate for the low end stuff.. flows as well as 44 external without the fitment hassle.

Proflow. boosted carb sleds have bowl pressure applied at ALL times from the turbo. anything that would alter that would cause major fuel handling issues.

RULE NUMBER 1. The bigger the compressor the better for a 2 stroke . the low end and trnsition to boost is instant and not even measureable.
with the evo turbo on the 800 rev we see 3-5 inches of vacum at idle.
with the 2871-76 we see zero vacum period !!! even at 2500 rpm we have inches of POSITIVE pressure to work with..

small turbos STARVE the engine for air when off boost.

Thanks again ,,I'm back and ONLY on this thread.

Gus
 
Doo reeds

Gus I posted this on another thread, air gap between cages, do you think this is caused by boost or defective cages.

DSCN1742.jpg

DSCN1743.jpg
 
Hey Gus, dont shoot me if this is unusable, but I picked it up today for $100.

Garrett T04 V spec Trim Turbo. Heres some specs on it: Cold side A/R 50, Hot side AIRESEARCH A/R 1.15 . 2 3/4 V band exit.

Some other markings on it are M24 & VETO136, RE16968. Looks like in the center maybe A30685, hard to tell. Unfortunately not internally wastegated I see already.

Please let me know if this is a candidate for my RMK 800.

0222101823b.jpg 0222101824c.jpg 0222101823a.jpg 0222101822c.jpg
 
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HOLY CRAP! is that thing of a powerstroke or something? IMO the A/R of the exhaust housing is gonna be way to big to get a reasonable spool time out of.

Gus, any thoughts on a properly sized auto turbo for a an older 700 doo top end? Was thinking mitsu to keep cost down but seems there kinda small.. what say you about a 2860? 2871... 3071!?!?

also, got any thoughts on what the CR was of these motors stock? thinking pump would be pretty easy to do on these as the older motors are definately less agressive with compression compared to the new guys!!
 
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Thats what I thought until I read this:

Gus wrote:
RULE NUMBER 1. The bigger the compressor the better for a 2 stroke . the low end and trnsition to boost is instant and not even measureable.
with the evo turbo on the 800 rev we see 3-5 inches of vacum at idle.
with the 2871-76 we see zero vacum period !!! even at 2500 rpm we have inches of POSITIVE pressure to work with..

small turbos STARVE the engine for air when off boost.

Thanks again ,,I'm back and ONLY on this thread.

Gus

So, I dunno, e-bay has new hot side housings for 75.00, or maybe I do get to keep my nitrous for taking up the lag !!!! I dunno----Proflow
 
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