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bisonboy02
New member
At 1300ft I am at 460 mains and I am still really rich, I think I'm going to drop it another 3-4 sizes
Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!
- Thread starter gus bohne
- Start date
At 1300ft I am at 460 mains and I am still really rich, I think I'm going to drop it another 3-4 sizes
question on BOV
Gus,
Have a bov that doesnt just release into the air, it ( i assume) pops off into the inlet pipe to the turbo, does this sound right. Would keep every thing cleaner if it is OK to use. Thanks
Gus,
Have a bov that doesnt just release into the air, it ( i assume) pops off into the inlet pipe to the turbo, does this sound right. Would keep every thing cleaner if it is OK to use. Thanks
thats is the intention of the design,,to dump into the path of the compresssor inlet, give it a shot..
Gus
Gus
Electrical issue ideas?
Gus,
I have a turbo doc aero53 setup iq 600 carb less than 100mi. Run bet 6k-10k ft. It'll start and run good up and down the road a few times until it warms up. Then periodically I will lose the MFD and headlights and the brake light may come on. I took it on a couple rides last year like this thinking the fuel pump was pulling a large current and not enough left to run everything else. Finally took it out this year, same symptoms except this time I lost all electrical including the fuel pump. The ignition was fine though, it kept idling until it ran out of fuel for lack of pressure. I shut it down to prepare for a tow, after ten minutes it fires back up everything seemed fine until I got to the trailer a very short distance away. I have already unplugged and cleaned every accessible harness with no luck, I have also unscrewed and cleaned any grounding wires I could find, no luck. I am thinking;
1. Bad ground somewhere ( can I make a jumper to test chassis grounding, if so where do I connect it?
or
2. Bad stator ( how do I figure it out for sure)
Any other ideas? I would greatly appreciate any input.
One other thing...it seems that it will idle from a cold start and everything is fine, no heat or time related issues. As soon as I spool it up, shortly after is when the problems start. I noticed that my electrical led bar indicator drops to zero when its spooled and the fuel pump is making pressure. Capacitor issue? I don't know, I'm ready to sell this thing just to get rid of my headache.
Gus,
I have a turbo doc aero53 setup iq 600 carb less than 100mi. Run bet 6k-10k ft. It'll start and run good up and down the road a few times until it warms up. Then periodically I will lose the MFD and headlights and the brake light may come on. I took it on a couple rides last year like this thinking the fuel pump was pulling a large current and not enough left to run everything else. Finally took it out this year, same symptoms except this time I lost all electrical including the fuel pump. The ignition was fine though, it kept idling until it ran out of fuel for lack of pressure. I shut it down to prepare for a tow, after ten minutes it fires back up everything seemed fine until I got to the trailer a very short distance away. I have already unplugged and cleaned every accessible harness with no luck, I have also unscrewed and cleaned any grounding wires I could find, no luck. I am thinking;
1. Bad ground somewhere ( can I make a jumper to test chassis grounding, if so where do I connect it?
or
2. Bad stator ( how do I figure it out for sure)
Any other ideas? I would greatly appreciate any input.
One other thing...it seems that it will idle from a cold start and everything is fine, no heat or time related issues. As soon as I spool it up, shortly after is when the problems start. I noticed that my electrical led bar indicator drops to zero when its spooled and the fuel pump is making pressure. Capacitor issue? I don't know, I'm ready to sell this thing just to get rid of my headache.
Earlier post in this thread:
Hey Gus,
I have been thinking about this principal. I have to use such gawd awful large jets(CCO needle jet and about 700main) and I wonder if I had a bit more bowl pressure I could then use some more available jets. I have a port in my bell that is intended to be used for a choke circuit. Since I use primers, I blocked it off. It would be easy to relocate the primers and use this port to run the bowl vents off of. If the dynamic pressure was too high I could use a bleed jet or adj needle valve to reduce the pressure. What are your thoughts? I think another benefit would be getting the bottom end leaned out easier.
What are your thoughts?
Hey Gus,
I have been thinking about this principal. I have to use such gawd awful large jets(CCO needle jet and about 700main) and I wonder if I had a bit more bowl pressure I could then use some more available jets. I have a port in my bell that is intended to be used for a choke circuit. Since I use primers, I blocked it off. It would be easy to relocate the primers and use this port to run the bowl vents off of. If the dynamic pressure was too high I could use a bleed jet or adj needle valve to reduce the pressure. What are your thoughts? I think another benefit would be getting the bottom end leaned out easier.
What are your thoughts?
It may be an option for you Tony, Looking at the big picture,, simply using the large diameter feeder line to your vents is probably the biggest hurdle you have to overcome.
There is a pressure differential that you are experiancing..large diameter vs small diameter.
the more traditional small line to each side of the carb bowl for venting will solve your dillema.
Your pics brought it to my attention but you seemed to be good till the wide open testing showed my fears..
two small lines to each carb,, no more,, no less..
gus
There is a pressure differential that you are experiancing..large diameter vs small diameter.
the more traditional small line to each side of the carb bowl for venting will solve your dillema.
Your pics brought it to my attention but you seemed to be good till the wide open testing showed my fears..
two small lines to each carb,, no more,, no less..
gus
Now I'm wondering about the source where I am pulling the signals from. I used a 1/4" hose to the top of each carb and then manifolded off the top of the carb fitting with two 1/8 lines,one to each vent. Each carb has it's own 1/4" source fitting in the airbox. So at WOT with the slide at the top and the space is minimal so the full signal should be going to the bowls????
This makes me wonder if.... where I get the signal in the air box is causing me problems. I installed it right above/infront of the inlet to the carb bell. (Almost the same spot some guys install their powerjets. I wonder if I am creating a lower pressure area(or turbulence) right there under heavy flow.
Maybe I need to relocate the carb pressure source fittings to a corner or center of the airbox away from the flow line into the carb? What do ya think?
This is going to make me cry if it is as simple as this....
I put two new ports in my airbox. Both away from the bell of the carb . I used the existing 1/4 ports strictly for the top of the slides because I know that works(absolutely no run on or throttle issues at all)
The float bowls already had 1/8" tubing on them to the top of the carb fitting so I'm just going to put in a T and take it to the one of the newly installed ports. Each carb is still fed off of it's own port. I'll let ya know how it works. Prolly won't be till next week.
The float bowls already had 1/8" tubing on them to the top of the carb fitting so I'm just going to put in a T and take it to the one of the newly installed ports. Each carb is still fed off of it's own port. I'll let ya know how it works. Prolly won't be till next week.
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bisonboy02
New member
Well, I took my sled out today today after dropping the mains to see it I can tune it better. Well I made 3 passes and it was running a litter better, half way thru the 4th pass it lost power big time. I loaded the sled and brought it back home. I looked it over really fast and found the vanes on the intake side of the turbo were scraping the housing. I tried turning it with a screwdriver and the vane is not centered in the housing and does not spin free.
Like I stated in a earlier post this is my first time on a 2-stroke turbo.
Is there any reason for this to happen? Would Heat do this?
There is no damage at the vanes so I don't think anything was sucked into it.
I pulled the plug on the turbo and checked the oil and there is 1 inch of oil, which should be good.
Do I have to worry about anything entering the motor?
I pulled the plugs and checked the compression, 140 in each cylinder.
Any help guys would be great.
Like I stated in a earlier post this is my first time on a 2-stroke turbo.
Is there any reason for this to happen? Would Heat do this?
There is no damage at the vanes so I don't think anything was sucked into it.
I pulled the plug on the turbo and checked the oil and there is 1 inch of oil, which should be good.
Do I have to worry about anything entering the motor?
I pulled the plugs and checked the compression, 140 in each cylinder.
Any help guys would be great.
Welcome to the worry free, trouble free world of the AEROCHARGER..LOL.
Sorry,,
Typical bearing failure on those. sorry for your bad luck, Bisonboy.
the vanes are on the exhaust side , if the compressor whell is not turning its the bearings, if its hitting anything or any part of the housing its the bearings.
they fail, thats the isssue,, they tell you you did something wrong,, you did NOT !!!
They tell you the bearings are ceramic,, THEY ARE NOT !!!steel melts, ceramic does not.
Get into a garrett ( it'll cost the same as repairing the aero, they run cooler, more consisten and do not fail ..BTW they make 30% more power than the best case aero scenario..
Gus
Sorry,,
Typical bearing failure on those. sorry for your bad luck, Bisonboy.
the vanes are on the exhaust side , if the compressor whell is not turning its the bearings, if its hitting anything or any part of the housing its the bearings.
they fail, thats the isssue,, they tell you you did something wrong,, you did NOT !!!
They tell you the bearings are ceramic,, THEY ARE NOT !!!steel melts, ceramic does not.
Get into a garrett ( it'll cost the same as repairing the aero, they run cooler, more consisten and do not fail ..BTW they make 30% more power than the best case aero scenario..
Gus
Thanks again Gus, Tony, Hein, I don't recall the rest that have helped me.
Anyway, my sled flat out rips. Nearly no lag, Crazy power on boost, doesn't burn belts, great fuel mileage, have'nt fouled a single plug with probably 60 gallons of fuel through it at this point.
Its still a bit of a work in progress. I blew my carbs off today in a climb. Got to do something to hold them on better.
For anyone that thinks carbed 2 stroke turbos don't work well or have huge lag, you need to come ride my sled. Its doing things I didn't expect.
Anyway big thanks again to all that have helped me.
Anyway, my sled flat out rips. Nearly no lag, Crazy power on boost, doesn't burn belts, great fuel mileage, have'nt fouled a single plug with probably 60 gallons of fuel through it at this point.
Its still a bit of a work in progress. I blew my carbs off today in a climb. Got to do something to hold them on better.
For anyone that thinks carbed 2 stroke turbos don't work well or have huge lag, you need to come ride my sled. Its doing things I didn't expect.
Anyway big thanks again to all that have helped me.
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proflow
Member
OK, so Ive read all of these posts tonight & have only one question.
What happens when a guy is already running a Boondocker Nitrous kit that pressurizes the carb bowls & then taps into them for a power-jet ? Would this turn into a tuning nightmare or no big deal ?
Thanks---Proflow
What happens when a guy is already running a Boondocker Nitrous kit that pressurizes the carb bowls & then taps into them for a power-jet ? Would this turn into a tuning nightmare or no big deal ?
Thanks---Proflow
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devil, You are welcome !!
from the bottom of my heart man,,,, ...boost is soooo fun..
Tony, sorry I've been out of reach phone wise these last few weeks. Getting ready for the goldenchild nationals next week to debut the 1000.
Lots of tuning and testing and turbo changing,,lol big got bigger and now might be bigged up another notch before next week !!!shooting for a 40 psi full pull at the race,, I am phsyco !!!! I know...gotta be loco to do this..
ran the 800 cpi turboed rev on timers sat,, 5.44 et 660'.. 22 psi,, not bad for the lil focker..
pssssst,,,still running the same set of doubled cat reeds ( 3 years old now ).
1000 is still on its original set also,, not even a fray or chip.
reeds fail due to lean spots. get rid of them and your good to go.
Thankx for the fun guys
Gus
from the bottom of my heart man,,,, ...boost is soooo fun..
Tony, sorry I've been out of reach phone wise these last few weeks. Getting ready for the goldenchild nationals next week to debut the 1000.
Lots of tuning and testing and turbo changing,,lol big got bigger and now might be bigged up another notch before next week !!!shooting for a 40 psi full pull at the race,, I am phsyco !!!! I know...gotta be loco to do this..
ran the 800 cpi turboed rev on timers sat,, 5.44 et 660'.. 22 psi,, not bad for the lil focker..
pssssst,,,still running the same set of doubled cat reeds ( 3 years old now ).
1000 is still on its original set also,, not even a fray or chip.
reeds fail due to lean spots. get rid of them and your good to go.
Thankx for the fun guys
Gus
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Devil good to hear! I got tired of my airbox breaking its holder too so now I use a small turn buckle to the engine right in between the two carbs. It works great. Holds the airbox and carbs in place yet they can still vibrate and wobble a bit. Sled is just about there, but my little pea brain says there is always something to improve upon..........that's why my wife thinks I spend too much time and money on this addiction...........LOL
Gus Good luck, Don't worry about the calls. Get the job done and call me with the particulars......When I was racing I used to be a tunnel vision son of a gun..........LOL
40 psi?? how ya gonna hold on to that?.......fasten yer seatbelts....LOL
I know, sometimes I think I shouldn't have started this project. It seems to never end.
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bisonboy02
New member
Approx how much would it cost to rebuild one?
Who would you guys reccomend to rebuild it?
Who would you guys reccomend to rebuild it?
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proflow
Member
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Spaarky
Well-known member
I think Turbo Doc is one of the only ones that can rebuild em. A lot of money... $800+ if I remember right
what is the question proflow ??
what are you trying to do ?
I don't see a question just some details of a boondockers n20 installation
Gus
what are you trying to do ?
I don't see a question just some details of a boondockers n20 installation
Gus
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proflow
Member
What I'm trying to do is talk myself into building another Turbo set-up without sacrificing the Nitrous.
Just wondering if pressurized fuel bowls from the Boondocker set up & the dial a jet would work alright hand in hand.
I did a Aerocharger on my 02' RMK 800 years ago w/dial a jets & the set up was great. But the fuel bowls were not pressurized like they are now .
So in short--When off nitrous dial a jet delivering x amount of fuel. OK-- When bowls pressurized from Boondocker I would assume delivery would change. Am I missing something here ? Just curious of an overlap in tuning.
Thanks--Proflow
Just wondering if pressurized fuel bowls from the Boondocker set up & the dial a jet would work alright hand in hand.
I did a Aerocharger on my 02' RMK 800 years ago w/dial a jets & the set up was great. But the fuel bowls were not pressurized like they are now .
So in short--When off nitrous dial a jet delivering x amount of fuel. OK-- When bowls pressurized from Boondocker I would assume delivery would change. Am I missing something here ? Just curious of an overlap in tuning.
Thanks--Proflow
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