Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

[gus bohne]

Thats the lack of low rpm LOW boost #'s ,, with the valves down ,, then popping open you go from nothing to full boost in a snap at 6500

without the valves down, your building lower boost numbers smoothly thru the lower rpm ranges,, Like you said, flip it back and see what you like better in the field.

with them open you have a flatter fuel curve too and thats easier to follow, predict and tune too.

Gus

 

[Tonysnoo]

Thats the lack of low rpm LOW boost #'s ,, with the valves down ,, then popping open you go from nothing to full boost in a snap at 6500

without the valves down, your building lower boost numbers smoothly thru the lower rpm ranges,, Like you said, flip it back and see what you like better in the field.

with them open you have a flatter fuel curve too and thats easier to follow, predict and tune too.

Gus

Hey Gus,

Does the open valves affect fuel economy? I'm mostly concerned about how far I can get in to ride our areas and of course back out.

So far during my test tune rides, I been using fuel like a drunken sailor. I'm pretty sure part was how fat, I've been running the bottom end to be safe.

What-do-ya-think?

 

[papafinger1]

Hey Gus,

Does the open valves affect fuel economy? I'm mostly concerned about how far I can get in to ride our areas and of course back out.

So far during my test tune rides, I been using fuel like a drunken sailor. I'm pretty sure part was how fat, I've been running the bottom end to be safe.

What-do-ya-think?

I have come to the conclusion that if I wanted good economy I would have left it stock. I too have some long travels to get to riding areas so I pack in 5 extra gals and wheelie all the way to the drop point. I am just hoping to get a spot on tune with a turn key turbo. So far so good. Been a long process but almost there. Thanks for all your help fellas and have a great New Year. I know personally the crown is going to be flowing and if you were around I would buy you all one as well.

 

[Tonysnoo]

I dinked around with some really lean pilot jets and got rid of some of my bottem end burble. I didn't ride very far but it looked like the fuel wasn't "leaking" out of the bottom of the tank as fast as normal....LOL

Been playing with the powervalves. Prolly need to order the powervalve servo motor eliminator chip. I was thinking of trying to similate the feedback resistance of the servo while open, but not sure what it would do when the valves are down.

Anyone know if it matters since I don't rely on the ecu to run efi anymore? Will it affect the timing having the servo motor disconnected?

 

[gus bohne]

d and d sells a ( chip) resistor to plug in.

Tony, bb-0 to aa-5.. that will clean it up wonderfully sir.
I should have mentioned it last phone call,,,, on my doo's I drop from stock q-2's to p-6 whe we swap from TWIN pipes to single and turbo..oops sorry..

Gus

 

[papafinger1]

devil/ gus. After some testing I have richened it up and got away with runnin so lean on the top but now have a burble on the bottom. I am still runnin the stock pilot jets and was wondering how far you may have move if at all on the pilots.

right now I am runnin 11.4 on the afr gauge on 7+ sec wot. Can probably lean it a bit but it is clean on the top. Just would like to clean up the bottom/ mid prior to boost a bit. Think I still think I need to throw some more weight at the primary as well but that I can play with myself. Not sold on the almond red spring either. Prolly gonna make the switch to the almond. Clutches don't get hot not but am runnin a straight 50 helix in the secondary, and considering the switch to a 46. Thanks for all your help fellas.
wes

 

[gus bohne]

Drop 10 to be good . example----30 down to 20...

On the doo's I end up down around 15 to 17.5 pilots from stock 25's.
on the tmx carbs ,, drop to 22 from 45 and drop needle jet size from q-0 to p-4.

cleans up the low to mid so you can KEEP the mains and power jets flowing for safe long top end pulls..
I realize you are tied into the needle jet you have pressed in stock, just drop pilots ..

gus
your welcome.. its all fun for me to see the evolution of a tuner when they really want to run a turbo 2 stroke,, you get really good at listening and feeling the sled out in just a few runs..

 

[bin sledin]

I had some 1/2" washers that had oversized holes (.562) that were just the right size od. Pulled the springs, put the washers between the housing and bellow, over the valve. Hard to explain where, but if you take it apart its obvious where you need the spacer. The washers are just used as a spacer because they were the perfect size and sitting right there.

Yes its super simple to change it back. I could do it on the mountain in about 5 minutes.

Do it, all they are doing is hampering the turbo. I don't know any difference at all in the low end, before boost.

would this work on my shift600 solved the fuel delivery thanks to your guys help it seems to have bottom end burps then cleans up and takes off like a scalded cat any imput would be great so far you guys have been nuts on with every problem i have stumbled accross i was wondering if i should down size my pilot jet or just open exaust valve

 

[gus bohne]

lock the valves open or delet, your choice, drop pilots as shown above and enjoy..

your welcome..

Gus

Shift,, huh,,,

Sounds pretty cool,,thats the one with the new skid ?? Would love to see some pics and more info.

Gus

 

[Spaarky]

Shift,, huh,,,

Sounds pretty cool,,thats the one with the new skid ?? Would love to see some pics and more info.

OMG... gus has a question I can answer... I am jumping all over this

Rush is the one with the funky new rear skid. Shift is the "stripped" down version of the IQ. They have no decals ...ect.

 

[devilrmk]

devil/ gus. After some testing I have richened it up and got away with runnin so lean on the top but now have a burble on the bottom. I am still runnin the stock pilot jets and was wondering how far you may have move if at all on the pilots.

right now I am runnin 11.4 on the afr gauge on 7+ sec wot. Can probably lean it a bit but it is clean on the top. Just would like to clean up the bottom/ mid prior to boost a bit. Think I still think I need to throw some more weight at the primary as well but that I can play with myself. Not sold on the almond red spring either. Prolly gonna make the switch to the almond. Clutches don't get hot not but am runnin a straight 50 helix in the secondary, and considering the switch to a 46. Thanks for all your help fellas.
wes

I am running 2.5 pilots, stock is 4.5. I think 3.0 would be just right. I have my air screw at 1/2 turn so the 2.5's are a bit lean.

 

[devilrmk]

would this work on my shift600 solved the fuel delivery thanks to your guys help it seems to have bottom end burps then cleans up and takes off like a scalded cat any imput would be great so far you guys have been nuts on with every problem i have stumbled accross i was wondering if i should down size my pilot jet or just open exaust valve

Not sure if the valves are the same on yours, but either way block them open and try it out. It will be much smoother power delivery and boost comes on way sooner.

And just as Gus said, drop your pilots.

The valves are going to make the biggest difference though, and that will clean up some of your jetting issues. I can have my powerjets open quite a bit farther(richer) without any stumbling.

 

[extremedesigndave]

o2 edge valves

Can I just make some plates to take the valves completely off? Or do i need to block them open?

 

[bin sledin]

once i figure out how to down load pics i will post some for you gus my shift is a 08 iq chassi with a 155 im gona do the exaust valves tomorow and see how she pulls

 

[extremedesigndave]

so

you just going to take them off or block them

 

[devilrmk]

Can I just make some plates to take the valves completely off? Or do i need to block them open?

I would think that just a plate is going to have some flow issues. I think the best choice would be getting non-ves cylinders.

 

[papafinger1]

I am running 2.5 pilots, stock is 4.5. I think 3.0 would be just right. I have my air screw at 1/2 turn so the 2.5's are a bit lean.

should I adjust mine all at the same time or one at a time. I am sure I have the stock settings or close at least. 4.5 pilots and 1 turn on the air screw. Will the 1/2 turn lean it out that much on the air screw? Will my powerjets being on the air box effect this more or less?

If I stay unemployed I will continue to dream up all kinds of ?'s.

 

[devilrmk]

should I adjust mine all at the same time or one at a time. I am sure I have the stock settings or close at least. 4.5 pilots and 1 turn on the air screw. Will the 1/2 turn lean it out that much on the air screw? Will my powerjets being on the air box effect this more or less?

If I stay unemployed I will continue to dream up all kinds of ?'s.

I would start by dropping your pilot to 3.0 and leave the air screw alone. The air screw is basically fine tuning the pilot. My pilots at 2.5 and air screw at 1/2 turn should be the same as 3.0 at 1 turn on the air.

Your powerjets shouldn't be affecting your pilot circuit. Where are your powerjets in your airbox? Real close to the carb? And how far down the venturi do the tubes hang?

 

[papafinger1]

I would start by dropping your pilot to 3.0 and leave the air screw alone. The air screw is basically fine tuning the pilot. My pilots at 2.5 and air screw at 1/2 turn should be the same as 3.0 at 1 turn on the air.

Your powerjets shouldn't be affecting your pilot circuit. Where are your powerjets in your airbox? Real close to the carb? And how far down the venturi do the tubes hang?

The powerjets are towards the back of the airbox but still within 3-3.5 inches from the carbs. I don't have any "hanging" tubes. The powerjet is mounted to a thin copper tubing that sits 1/4 in from the bottom of the air box.

 

[devilrmk]

Thats way less than ideal setup for powerjets.

Not sure how they would react that way. Doesn't seem like they would be real consistent that way. Best place for them is as close to the slide as possible.