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Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

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Is the 'O' ring airbox just a groove machined in the carb and one in the airbox flange? Devil or Papa: Does the jackshaft interfere with the airbox at all? Do you use any other source to hold the airbox to the carbs, ie; rubber bungee, etc? Papa: You will love the Powderclaw, the Camo Extreme is a close second, I run both.
 
What are you guys using for a boost controller????

A budy of mine got a OVS kit and it came with one like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX-MBC-Manual-Boost-Controller-BXAC-00600-Hallman_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem48379f8edfQQitemZ310170848991QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I called Blox and they said I can only get 5lbs additional boost out of it. I would like somewhere between 10-15. 15lbs would be optimal. Right now the turbo is set to run 10lbs without a controller.

I have a borrowed one on my sled right now.. looks like this...

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/es.html

I like the newer style, it doesnt require any tools....
 
Alright... I called Blox, they said I could only get 5lbs out of their controller. I then called Hallman... holy crap storm. Apparently they are saying that Blox stole their design.

I ordered the ProKit... http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/order.html

Hopefully its the right choice. She said Cutler was buying from them. They said I could get as much boost out of as I want.. if it wasnt enough they would send me a spring that would.
 
I used a couple different manual boost controllers on my motorcycles and cars. I could turn up to whatever I want.
on my xp I only have the 7.2lb spring in the gate right now. After awhile I am going to get the aem true boost. it is a digital 2 1/16" gauge and a single stage digital boost controler in one. tell the gauge you want 10.4lbs of boost and it goes to 10.4 and uses a solenoid to keep it their.
That is the only thing I don't like about the manual boost controllers. You kind of guess how much you turn it to get the boost where you want it. Then if it is too much or not enough you have to adjust it untill it is where you want it.
You can also put a solenoid in line with the mbc so that it runs gate presure and then runs mbc presure when you push a button or flip a switch. if you want a solenoid let me know. I have a couple new ones out in the garage. Best solenoids made for this type of setup. Same as I use on my turbo drag/street bikes and come with the ams1000 boost controller.
i can get mbc's for way cheaper then the ones listed. They don't look as fancy and are plastic, but they work. I can do a plastic mbc, and solenoid shiped for less then the hallman pro. hallman is a name brand that has ben the business for a long time.
 
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Outlaw, this probably won't surprise you but my boost controller is homemade. Cost me less than $10 and a trip to home depot.


Rdr, I have an o-ring groove in the airbox flange only. The carb was just polished a bit.

I have a screw threaded in the airbox flange that screws into the carb to hold it from blowing off. In the one picture you can see it, button head stainless screw.

My jackshaft is about 4" below the bottom of the charge box.


Papa, I only have about $10 in that box but about 8 hours also. Yea it would get spendy to have built. At some point I am going to make another. This one has been cut apart and rewelded so many times, Now that I have it figured out I can take my time and do another one.
 
I have never used one, but have friends that have made their own from parts at harbor freight and home depot.
 
hallman is probably the best aftermarket mechanical boost controller out there IMO.
 
Clippard has very nice little ball plunger units that you can mount to the handlebar and just push with your left thumb !!

they've been around since the early 80's too..

Depending on line size and orrafice size you can get anything you want at the push of a button,, even bent rods..LOL:(

useing it inconjunction with your maunal controller is best of both worlds, you can set your self with what you want and still have an additional button for emergency's,,,??? what ever a BOOST emergency would actually be:D:D


Gus
 
jets

Gus How much boost do you think a rotary valve 440 can handle with race fuel. Is there any bottom end modifications I should do before boosting it. I know I ask your opinion on my choice of parts and there is a reason, this is my first turbo build. Anyway got more parts today and will these do the trick.

psi power jets and turbo xs rfl bov.
 
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Clippard has very nice little ball plunger units that you can mount to the handlebar and just push with your left thumb !!

they've been around since the early 80's too..

Depending on line size and orrafice size you can get anything you want at the push of a button,, even bent rods..LOL:(

useing it inconjunction with your maunal controller is best of both worlds, you can set your self with what you want and still have an additional button for emergency's,,,??? what ever a BOOST emergency would actually be:D:D


Gus

so if you would set your manual at say high 12lbs and then set the clippard to 8-10 to run all day and then have a quick buttom push to get the 12 for a long pull?
 
i can get mbc's for way cheaper then the ones listed. They don't look as fancy and are plastic, but they work. I can do a plastic mbc, and solenoid shiped for less then the hallman pro. hallman is a name brand that has ben the business for a long time.

so you are telling me that you can get ME this electronic boost gauge for under $105? Wow would like to see some pics if you have any. Only downfall to this controller is I need power to it. Just another electronic gauge that could possibly fail. What would be the consequences if I lose power to it? No boost, Too much boost, maintain? 2 out of the 3 could mean carnage for me and the sled? I am not bashing at all, I love the idea but it these things that are of concern.
thanks,
wes
 
so you are telling me that you can get ME this electronic boost gauge for under $105? Wow would like to see some pics if you have any. Only downfall to this controller is I need power to it. Just another electronic gauge that could possibly fail. What would be the consequences if I lose power to it? No boost, Too much boost, maintain? 2 out of the 3 could mean carnage for me and the sled? I am not bashing at all, I love the idea but it these things that are of concern.
thanks,
wes

Nooo.. I wish. aem tru-boost retails for $335. I can get them a bit cheaper then that, but no where near $105. You can get them for the same price as I can off of ebay.
I could do a manual boost controller and a solenoid for under $105 shiped. Same stuff I use on my turbo bikes and I have seen some places charge as much as $200 for the same setup. You could obviously build your own mbc and get some other solenoid for cheaper, but this is pretty good quality stuff.
I don't know on the aem tru boost what happes if it loses power.
 
team voodoo.
I don't like the turbo xs rfl blov because it is too loud. What do you think RFL stands for? Really Fookin Loud. :D
I also kind of think that it does not dump the boost as good as it can because it kind of restricts the boost that comes out of it to make it have a loud sound.
I have one on a supercharged gsxr 1000 runing 12lbs of boost. I need to find something else that will fit in the location the turbo xs valve is in. I need a tall skinny bov. unfortunatly the tial bov's do not fit in the location I have it. Need to maybee get a greddy bov.
I have used the standard tial bov's and they have a pulsing kind of fluttering sound. I put a tial Q bov on my xp. the Q has different cut outs then the standard 50mm tial bov. it is supposed to flow alot more air. when I chop the throttle with the Q bov you just hear a air rushing sound comeing out of it. No fancy sounds. Just function. :cool:

I always thought it would be fun to try a turkey bov though. :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_Qul7MiImk
 
team voodoo.
I don't like the turbo xs rfl blov because it is too loud. What do you think RFL stands for? Really Fookin Loud. :D
I also kind of think that it does not dump the boost as good as it can because it kind of restricts the boost that comes out of it to make it have a loud sound.
I have one on a supercharged gsxr 1000 runing 12lbs of boost. I need to find something else that will fit in the location the turbo xs valve is in. I need a tall skinny bov. unfortunatly the tial bov's do not fit in the location I have it. Need to maybee get a greddy bov.
I have used the standard tial bov's and they have a pulsing kind of fluttering sound. I put a tial Q bov on my xp. the Q has different cut outs then the standard 50mm tial bov. it is supposed to flow alot more air. when I chop the throttle with the Q bov you just hear a air rushing sound comeing out of it. No fancy sounds. Just function. :cool:

I always thought it would be fun to try a turkey bov though. :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_Qul7MiImk

That turkey caller is to funny. As for the bov I find it a little to big for what I need and it's pretty heavy I would have to say it weighs 2 1/2 pounds I need to keep the weight down as much as possible for radar running.
 
so you are telling me that you can get ME this electronic boost gauge for under $105? Wow would like to see some pics if you have any. Only downfall to this controller is I need power to it. Just another electronic gauge that could possibly fail. What would be the consequences if I lose power to it? No boost, Too much boost, maintain? 2 out of the 3 could mean carnage for me and the sled? I am not bashing at all, I love the idea but it these things that are of concern.
thanks,
wes

Hey Papa,

Just a thought.....if ya lose power to the guage, ya prolly lost it to the pump and your going to stop either way. These sleds have a healthy amount of electrical power if it is managed correctly.:)

On the BOV topic, I've been using a bypass style, like Gus recomended and I can not tell if it's working other than I have some oil residue on the airfilter where it dumps and there is absolutely no run on of any kind. It kept it's throttle manners like it's still N/A
 
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Voodoo, If you drill 2, 6 mm holes in your slides one on each side of the needle hole, it will drop the slides effortlessly . No need to use a bov for your application. added weight...I don't have one even on the 1000 promod at 30 psi with no run on issue.save the money and weight..

The rotary valve surfaces are really the big wear item, any boost pressure wears it a little faster.

The limit of boost is thermal, and mechanical.
Your turbo limits are the big wall. small turbo,, small boost. high boost on small turbo is just heat .

20 psi on your set up is tops .. 440 engine, will handle that all day..
you will not push seals or any other wives tales.. just run it.

Gus
 
Voodoo, If you drill 2, 6 mm holes in your slides one on each side of the needle hole, it will drop the slides effortlessly . No need to use a bov for your application. added weight...I don't have one even on the 1000 promod at 30 psi with no run on issue.save the money and weight..

The rotary valve surfaces are really the big wear item, any boost pressure wears it a little faster.

The limit of boost is thermal, and mechanical.
Your turbo limits are the big wall. small turbo,, small boost. high boost on small turbo is just heat .

20 psi on your set up is tops .. 440 engine, will handle that all day..
you will not push seals or any other wives tales.. just run it.

Gus

Good info gus

Just waiting for the carbs and the oil pump to arrive to button this project up and see how she does. Turbocharging 2 strokes around here is is black art nobody does it will be a new trend if mine does well. After this build is complete I'm building an xp 800 trail-lake racer.

Thanks again for the help Gus.
 
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