Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

[bin sledin]

sounds like the same animal its wraped in blak foam so icant see any nmes but when i started it i could see the excess fuel being pumped back throu return line and it filled the carb line almost instantly. it came with the hmr kit that igot wich was used . seems to run nice started first pull

 

[devilrmk]

Where do you have your boost reference to your pressure regulator?

Best place is in the pipe. You get a bit of a rising rate that way.

Otherwise its just jetting and adjusting powerjets.

 

[bin sledin]

my boost gage is plumed into my air box by pipe do you mean the exaust pipe or the charge tube

 

[bin sledin]

looks to me like every thing is plumed into my air intake. would it make life easier yet again if i move the line from my pipe were should it be on the pipe at the Y or were sorry for the stupid questions this is my first turbo kit i used to run rotax for many years i appreciate the help

 

[devilrmk]

Into the fat part of the pipe. Exhaust pipe. I am talking about the boost reference port on your fuel pressure regulator. It should go to your pipe. If you were running the hobbs switch setup, maybe it wasn't even hooked up? You can run your base pressure with your regulator down 3-5 psi, then boost will increase it as pipe pressure rises which starts to rise just before boost and rises quicker than boost.

Not sure if it will make any real difference as I have never run any different but in theory it will give you a rich condition with more boost instead of a lean condition.

No problem on the questions. I don't know much but I am willing to help when I do. That is what this thread is for anyway. I was asking lots of the same questions a couple months ago.

 

[bin sledin]

i will try it and see what happens i cant wait to take it out and see the differance im thinking its gonna rip now we just got a big dump int the mountians

 

[devilrmk]

Are you using a fuel pressure guage? If so you can run it on a stand or lift and verify your fuel pressure is rising. It will rise before boost so you can get it to rise pretty easy on the stand.

 

[esninak]

for your boost referance from the pipe to the regulator, what kind of hose are you using? do you just weld a bung into the pipe to atach the hose?

also will my stock polaris oil injection pump move enough oil to keep a journal bearing turbo well lubed? what kind of oil should i use for the turbo?

thanks guys

 

[devilrmk]

for your boost referance from the pipe to the regulator, what kind of hose are you using? do you just weld a bung into the pipe to atach the hose?

also will my stock polaris oil injection pump move enough oil to keep a journal bearing turbo well lubed? what kind of oil should i use for the turbo?

thanks guys

I think Gus recommended using -4AN braided hose right up to the pipe. I personnally used a 1/4" brake line. Cut one end off just past the fitting, welded the end that I cut off to the pipe(the fitting and all) used a coupler and attached the long end of the brake line to that. That runs out 12" and then just a vacuum hose is attached between the brake line and regulator. I did this just to keep the heat away from the hose. Its the hillbilly way of doing it, but it seems to work well, cost me $4 and I didn't have to go anywhere special to get the hose. There isn't really any heat past about an inch. The way gus does it would work just fine.

No your injection pump will not pump enough oil to even create pressure. There are several options on pumps. I don't know who makes them but there is a larger pump that can replace the injection pump that will pump enough oil. Like I said, I got no clue who makes them.

Then there is electric pumps. Twister here on the forum sells what I am told is the best pump. I am using a 24 volt Greylor pump. These are very small, take very little power but don't pump the best. I am getting 22psi with 5-40w oil hot. Going to switch to 10-50w to try and get the pressure up some more.

25-30psi minimum for a journal bearing turbo. Flow only is good enough for a ball bearing turbo.

 

[papafinger1]

Gentleman, I have been following your posts and have a few clutching setup ? that need to be addressed.
I have a 02 edge 700 powered by and areo 53 runnin around 10-12 lbs of boost.
First I am running a team secondary with a 50 degree straight helix, polaris primary. At the moment I have a almond red spring in the primary suggested by team. I am new to clutching theory but it seems to me that I am loosing a lot of power just engaging the primary. It took 2 of us to install the spring for $@#& sakes. Would a lighter spring adding more weights be a better way too go? Also gearing is a concern. Last yr in revy it pulled hard with stock gearing but didn't seem to have enough track speed to keep me above the snow on steep pulls. I never ran out of power, just momentum.

Peeps have suggested anything from 19/43 gears, which seems odd since I am loosing track speed, to 20/38. The 20/38's increase track speed 7 mph above the stock gearing and I can use the stock chain. Will this be too high? I still want the low end torque for boondocking but what is the point of a turbo if you can't impress people on a point and chute every once in a while.

Thanks guys,
Wes

 

[devilrmk]

Sounds like you actually were running out of power. If not it would be pulling 60-70mph track speed the whole time. Depending on what gearing you had at that time. If you can't get up something with that track speed, you probably shouldn't be climbing it. I would say drop down to 19/43 but I doubt that gearing is your problem.

I don't have any really good ideas of what your problem might be. Heat soak? IDK.

You are not losing any power from the spring. It will only delay engagement. What is your engagement RPM?

 

[rdr99]

What gears stock? What track? We have used 19/40, 19/41 with stock 9T drivers. The Almond/Red is a 165/310 spring, just means it has higher engagement. I usually use a straight Almond(140/330). I have used 19/43 with 10T drivers with good results, have also ran 20/43 with the stock 9T drivers.

 

[papafinger1]

Thanks guys. I am running the stock gearing with a 8t 3 pitch extoverts with a maverick 162 2.25 track.

 

[rdr99]

Looks like stock gearing for an 02 700 was 19/39. You need to gear down, 19/41 or 19/43. You burn belts with that stock setup? You might get more responses posting in the 'Edge' section of Polaris. Not trying to be an azz, but lets try to keep this topic about 'carb tuning turbos'.

 

[papafinger1]

Looks like stock gearing for an 02 700 was 19/39. You need to gear down, 19/41 or 19/43. You burn belts with that stock setup? You might get more responses posting in the 'Edge' section of Polaris. Not trying to be an azz, but lets try to keep this topic about 'carb tuning turbos'.

Yeah I tried that and today had more responses than all so far. No I have not burned a belt yet but not a lot of miles. I am going to go to the 19/43 thanks for the re-assurance.

Don't mean to be an azz either but isn't clutching an intricate part of tuning my carbed turbo?

 

[gus bohne]

leave it alone as far as gear goes. you should have plenty of power for that ratio and sled.
get that 50 out of the driven, I am assuming it runs a hot back clutch with straight 50.
get back into the low 40's on finish angle and it will come around for ya .

clutching and carb tuning issues go hand in hand. you can chase your asss ina circle if the clutching is wwrong and vise versa..


You guys are getting the hang of this ,, Tony, Devil, canucklehead,insane...
thanks for paying atttention to me and the sled, they do tel you what they need once you know what to listen for..

And Devil,, your hillybilly plumbing is exactly whats on mine, just going from the #4 to rubber hose after first 20 '' or so for same reason.. now funny thing,, its never hot or even discolored.
I plumbed the promod with just 10 '' of braid then rubber for the last 8 inches..

Gus

 

[papafinger1]

leave it alone as far as gear goes. you should have plenty of power for that ratio and sled.
get that 50 out of the driven, I am assuming it runs a hot back clutch with straight 50.
get back into the low 40's on finish angle and it will come around for ya .

clutching and carb tuning issues go hand in hand. you can chase your asss ina circle if the clutching is wwrong and vise versa..

Thank you for the advise. Do I want to go to a multi angled helix then or order a straight helix that is in the low 40's?

Once again I re-iterate how great it is to have the help of gentlemen like yourselves. I am new to the turbo craze and am still trying to grasp for a full understanding of it. I am not near there yet but have gained leaps and bounds from when I started. Being new to this I have had to rely on suggestions for starting points from others. It's close but still feel there is more untapped power. Thanks again.

 

[rdr99]

On some of the older turbo sled I remember seeing High and Low boost switches. How and why would one use them? I am guessing that they are no longer relevant? Would they work on a external wastegate turbo?

 

[devilrmk]

leave it alone as far as gear goes. you should have plenty of power for that ratio and sled.
get that 50 out of the driven, I am assuming it runs a hot back clutch with straight 50.
get back into the low 40's on finish angle and it will come around for ya .

clutching and carb tuning issues go hand in hand. you can chase your asss ina circle if the clutching is wwrong and vise versa..


You guys are getting the hang of this ,, Tony, Devil, canucklehead,insane...
thanks for paying atttention to me and the sled, they do tel you what they need once you know what to listen for..

And Devil,, your hillybilly plumbing is exactly whats on mine, just going from the #4 to rubber hose after first 20 '' or so for same reason.. now funny thing,, its never hot or even discolored.
I plumbed the promod with just 10 '' of braid then rubber for the last 8 inches..

Gus

Well thanks for starting the thread and getting me to where I am now. It has made it much quicker on the learning curve having someone knowledgeable to ask.


Papa, most that I have talked to run a straight helix. Like 46 or 48 on the 800's running 12-14psi boost.

 

[devilrmk]

On some of the older turbo sled I remember seeing High and Low boost switches. How and why would one use them? I am guessing that they are no longer relevant? Would they work on a external wastegate turbo?

Not seen them. Guessing they were something like an air switch that controlled a bleed in the actuator line.

How do the external WG's operate? Still a boost signal line that controls it? If all my assumptions are correct I don't see any reason they wouldn't work the same.