Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

[devilrmk]

T25 is pretty small. Remember your turbo is going to have to pressurize the intake, engine and pipe before it starts to give any power. Thats a lot more than any car.

I am using polyurethane. Same stuff you normally use on a sled.
You just have to keep it away from the turbo. Vents are your friend.

Plumbed my water right there before it goes into the brake MC and out right down at the tunnel cooler. Removed my thermostat to keep it flowing.

 

[zrt1]

Ok, 900 cat twin mitsu. 12lbs. 10 tooth stock drivers, stock 19/43 gearing, 40 pilots, 75g primarys with epi 185/320 spring. I've got the green cat snopro spring with 51deg. Helix. It pulls really good on top but is a total joke on the bottom. In powder you'd be stuck all day trying to get it moving. Is that 40 pilot sound to big? Gearing to tall? Wrong helix? Can anyone point me in the right direction with gearing and clutching? I ride at rabbit ears in colorado 9k+ thanks...

 

[devilrmk]

How does it run on the low end? Is it crisp or lazy? If its lazy it probably too rich. I am down to 2.5's on my poo 800.

When is your boost coming on? If its way late you probably have boost leaks.

 

[zrt1]

ive checked for boost leaks, if i blip the throttle back and forth its fine, if you have to cross a ditch or something and you roll into the ditch and then grab a handfull of throttle it falls on its face for a second or two.

 

[knuts76]

Hello
I am in the process of installing a cpi turbo kit on my 03 1m 900 and I have a question about where I put the line from the bov after the carbs. I installed it in the case on top where the reeds and carb boots install theres a flat spot on the case and i drilled and tapped a hole but only untill after I was done and putting the reeds and boots back on I realized that the hole is after the reeds where i tapped it. Is that going to work or am I going to have to move it?
thanks
Eric

 

[devilrmk]

It needs to be between the reeds and carbs

 

[devilrmk]

ive checked for boost leaks, if i blip the throttle back and forth its fine, if you have to cross a ditch or something and you roll into the ditch and then grab a handfull of throttle it falls on its face for a second or two.

Wheres your exhaust outlet at?

I have mine in the stock location and experience bad bogging while turning out in heavy snow. Blocked exhaust.

I am still tuning my motor and clutching to get it more responsive.

 

[zrt1]

Hello
I am in the process of installing a cpi turbo kit on my 03 1m 900 and I have a question about where I put the line from the bov after the carbs. I installed it in the case on top where the reeds and carb boots install theres a flat spot on the case and i drilled and tapped a hole but only untill after I was done and putting the reeds and boots back on I realized that the hole is after the reeds where i tapped it. Is that going to work or am I going to have to move it?
thanks
Eric

If you take your carbs off and look where they slide into the boots theres a dimple on each carb where they would put oil injection nozzles. drill and tap your fittings in both carbs and tee them together and then to your BOV. works awsome. also you can drill the bell of your carbs into the body insted of tapping the top caps. does the same thing and looks cleaner.

 

[devilrmk]

Hey Gus, or any of you guys.

My exhaust valves, currently I have the strongest springs in them so they open late. Would lighter springs make my boost come on sooner possibly? Think I am going to try it. Got to get it boosting a bit quicker.

8psi today was pulling way harder than it was last week at 10 so I am getting closer on the jetting. Still got some clutching to do.

 

[gus bohne]

This gets better every day..LOL

TAKE THE POTATO OUT OF THE PIPE !!!

Get the vales locked open, lean down the pilot a little if neeeded and drop the needle jet 3 sizes..

Better response and no bog in and out of the throttle.
when the vales drop, its like a potato in your exhaust pipe, the truck just bogs till it BLOWS THEM OPEN AND OUT OF THE FLOWPATH !!!

They are wrong for boost, live and learn,, thats the point of this thread..

its like a clutch on a blower drive belt, should you disengage it when you let off the throttle ???? LOL sure you do ,,,,rotflmao..lol


Gus

 

[devilrmk]

Thats what I thought.

I have the springs in there that were in it from its N/A setup, hadn't addressed that issue yet but its time now.

I will have to figure out how to lock them open. Might try the lightest springs first just to see what it does. Real simple deal to throw in the springs on the hill to do a comparison.

I have the mikuni flatsides that have to press the needle jets in and out. Was thinking yesterday on the hill that I should drop the needle.

Switching the exhaust this week to less restrictive and out the side. I was bogging pretty bad when the exhaust was blocked.

 

[Todd H]

This gets better every day..LOL

TAKE THE POTATO OUT OF THE PIPE !!!

Get the vales locked open, lean down the pilot a little if neeeded and drop the needle jet 3 sizes..

Better response and no bog in and out of the throttle.
when the vales drop, its like a potato in your exhaust pipe, the truck just bogs till it BLOWS THEM OPEN AND OUT OF THE FLOWPATH !!!

They are wrong for boost, live and learn,, thats the point of this thread..

its like a clutch on a blower drive belt, should you disengage it when you let off the throttle ???? LOL sure you do ,,,,rotflmao..lol


Gus

Gus,

So you are saying that the valves should be removed on the doo motor completely? I will be trying a 66 aero on a 800R in the next few days, and trying to decide if I should bother screwing around with the bellows, or just remove? Can I make a simple plate to cover the valve gallery and just bolt over, sealing with the factory gasket? Help!

Or do I make a plate, and using a nut pull the valve open, but don't remove it completely?

The RAVE valves are giving me trouble on my other sled as well, but I seem to have it working so they are not coming apart. But them seem pointless because they open up as soon as the boost hits ( I think)

 

[canucklehead]

Gus,

So you are saying that the valves should be removed on the doo motor completely? I will be trying a 66 aero on a 800R in the next few days, and trying to decide if I should bother screwing around with the bellows, or just remove? Can I make a simple plate to cover the valve gallery and just bolt over, sealing with the factory gasket? Help!

Or do I make a plate, and using a nut pull the valve open, but don't remove it completely?

The RAVE valves are giving me trouble on my other sled as well, but I seem to have it working so they are not coming apart. But them seem pointless because they open up as soon as the boost hits ( I think)

dwhalverson has some, I am going to try a set. In the meantime I am going to build a spacer and put it on the valve to lock it fully open. I have one day on my turbo and had a look under the cap and it looks like someone had a teflon tape orgasm in there.

 

[bin sledin]

fule pressure adjustment

how do i properly adust my hobbs and my 4309 mallory regultor so that i rid myself of the fuel problems can this be done with out the sled running or do i have to put temperrary gages to figureout propper ajustment and remove them once its dialed i have a fuel pressure gage and a boost gage thanks guys this thread is awsome

 

[gus bohne]

No one uses the old hobbs set ups for trail riding. use JUST an electric pump and the mallory bypass style regulator.

When using that old style system with a stock pulse pump the overlap and underfuelling is pointless and has been replaced with a no fuss set up.
the pulse pump has to go. then use as above..

set pressure at 5 psi and go

gus

 

[devilrmk]

no one uses the old hobbs set ups for trail riding. Use just an electric pump and the mallory bypass style regulator.

When using that old style system with a stock pulse pump the overlap and underfuelling is pointless and has been replaced with a no fuss set up.
The pulse pump has to go. Then use as above..

Set pressure at 5 psi and go

gus

kiss

 

[bin sledin]

thanks Gus that makes way more sense to me i kinda thougth the two pump thing was dumb but thats how the instructions i got told me to do it from now on i will ask the people who know and disregard the instructions this makes my life way easyier happy holidays

 

[devilrmk]

What gus said works well. I don't understand why anyone would want to do it differently in this age. Maybe 10-15 years ago when the availability of pumps and regulators wasn't what it is today.

Guess lots of people just follow whats been done before without realizing theres a better way.

 

[bin sledin]

i just hurled the stock pump the relay and a bunch of usless wiring over my left shoulder pulled the cord and it fired right up you wernt kidding when you said KISS just one last question will still give me enough fuel at full boost?

 

[devilrmk]

What fuel pump are you running?

The fuel pump most of us use is equivalent to this

Free Flow Rate 43 gph
Maximum Pressure (psi)40 psi
Inlet Size 3/8 in.
Inlet Quantity Single
Inlet Attachment Hose barb
Outlet Size 5/16 in.
Outlet Quantity Single
Outlet Attachment Hose barb