Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

[devilrmk]

Well, had a problem with the cpi unit, lowered oil level in tank to 1/2 a quart and never had a problem after, but I am on the flats.

Anytie there is boost it can blow by the bearings in the turbo and push into the tank. long venting lines and one way chaeck valves are std issue..

a bov might help some to.

Gus
boost lower than the waste gate spring pressure is leaks or too rich.. if you rode it without burning it down its rich..lol

Gus

Not worried about my low boost #, I changed the spring in the wastegate to lower my initial boost. Wasn't sure where it would be at. Glad its at 4 because I can keep it down on rides I don't need it and turn it up when I want.

It was probably just a bit on the rich side, I adjusted the powerjets just to the point it would run clean.


I should be fine just moving my vent to the front of the tank. My tank capacity is about 1.5qts I figured on running it at 1qt.

The check valve, is that the antiroll over valve you talked about earlier in the thread?

A regular type check valve would block the pressure in along with the oil...

 

[DWHalverson]

I have anti rollover check valves if Gus doesn't hook you up with one. Just shoot me a pm if you need one. They have a 1psi breaking pressure for air and any fluid stops the flow. No mess.

Dave

 

[Tonysnoo]

Hey Gus,

Here is an update on my carb project. I can't believe all of the miles of tubing I have in this thing now......LOL

For some of you guys just catching this thread, This was just an idea I kicked around with Gus about 1/2 way through this thread(a few months back). I was hoping to fire this weekend, but still have a bit more to do.......clutch calibration, chassis work...etc.

Looking forward to kickin this baby over and seeing if it will phart and spit or chit and git!...........thanks again for all the advice!

 

[Mjunkie]

Can't wait to hear more from you, Tony!! Thanks for sharing!!

 

[devilrmk]

Hey Tony, how are you sealing your charge box to your carbs? I am looking for an alternative to get my box closer to the carbs as it currently hits my steering post at full turn.

 

[Tonysnoo]

I machined the collars for orings. I had to do a little handwork to the carbs too as the welding distorted the collars slightly. I have two orings in each collar, but it still worries me some.

 

[devilrmk]

My first version of my box was with O-rings. It distorted so much welding it I threw it in the trash. I have a couple more ideas to keep it from doing that. I might try it again. Its about the only way I can think to get in close enough to my carbs to get away from the steering shaft.

 

[Team Voodoo]

From good advice I swapped out the ported motor for a stock one and started the build in hope of having it running soon. My question is I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to oil the turbo because I'm running a journal bearing turbo and I can't seem to find the proper oil pump. How can I oil this turbo?. And another thing is how much boost can a rotary engine run before blowing out the crank seals

 

[clay hale]

rotary

From good advice I swapped out the ported motor for a stock one and started the build in hope of having it running soon. My question is I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to oil the turbo because I'm running a journal bearing turbo and I can't seem to find the proper oil pump. How can I oil this turbo?. And another thing is how much boost can a rotary engine run before blowing out the crank seals

you need to crack open the crank case . skidoo has a clip for watercraft motors that slips in the center of motor . cause a backfire or to much boost will blow seals out and put a lot of oil on top of one piston or the other. its about a $18 part that will save lots of money good luck

 

[Spaarky]

My question is I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to oil the turbo because I'm running a journal bearing turbo and I can't seem to find the proper oil pump. How can I oil this turbo?.

Twister should have oil pumps again shortly. I think the other day he order 5 or 10. He can help you further once you would purchase a pump too.

 

[Snowjunky]

A couple of questions Could someone post some pictures of the carb to box o-ring fitting? I must be missing something on The warpage issue. Are you using light gauge material?
Why wouldnt hose clamps and hose work or did I miss something about the manifold side being the same type fitting?
Would anyone share their instructions with me Maybe e-mail me a scan. I just want to see a componet breakdown on a good 2 stroke carbed type kit. I really need to learn more and feel this might help. Gus I sent you an e-mail with some pics Its the second one that has the pics
Rick
Rsonnen767@aol.com

 

[devilrmk]

A couple of questions Could someone post some pictures of the carb to box o-ring fitting? I must be missing something on The warpage issue. Are you using light gauge material?
Why wouldnt hose clamps and hose work or did I miss something about the manifold side being the same type fitting?
Would anyone share their instructions with me Maybe e-mail me a scan. I just want to see a componet breakdown on a good 2 stroke carbed type kit. I really need to learn more and feel this might help. Gus I sent you an e-mail with some pics Its the second one that has the pics

If you have room then a hose and clamp setup works fine. On mine(polaris edge) I have about 3/4" clearance between the steering post and the bottom of the carb flange. That doesn't leave enough room for box and clamp.

What I tried to use was 1/8" thick and sandwiched a ring on the inside and outside with an o-ring between. Way too much weld, way too much heat, welded way too quick and it turned into a potatoe chip.

I think what Tony did was made a collar out of thicker material, bored an oring groove(2) in it and then welded the collar to his box. That is probably what I will try and then heatsink the crap out of it while I weld and take my time.

 

[Tonysnoo]

If you have room then a hose and clamp setup works fine. On mine(polaris edge) I have about 3/4" clearance between the steering post and the bottom of the carb flange. That doesn't leave enough room for box and clamp.

What I tried to use was 1/8" thick and sandwiched a ring on the inside and outside with an o-ring between. Way too much weld, way too much heat, welded way too quick and it turned into a potatoe chip.

I think what Tony did was made a collar out of thicker material, bored an oring groove(2) in it and then welded the collar to his box. That is probably what I will try and then heatsink the crap out of it while I weld and take my time.

Yup, that is exactly what I did. I did a lot of guessing with groove depth and spacing. Actually I made quite a few before I was happy. I only welded one set and they were just a bit too tight with the double orings in them so I had to do a little work on the outside of the carbs to match up a bit better. They are pretty dang tight, so I think it'll be OK.

 

[devilrmk]

I think if you kept it tight enough just a single o-ring would be fine. Double I am sure you won't have any issues with.

 

[Tonysnoo]

OK Gus,

She started.....second pull. Did a few odd tests on voltage and amperage with the pump and o2 gauge and then it was off to; warming it up, checking for leaks, and seeing what the throttle response was like.

Pretty lazy. Even with the twins it used to anticipate the throttle. Now, with the single pipe, it's sluggish. I'm assuming it's a combo of lower compression, stock timing and doubled up reeds. I'm going to get it on the snow before I worry too much about the throttle response.

I was curious about the O2 guage. It reads lean, but I can smell the fuel....or is 14.7 lean at an off-idle(3000rpm)?


PS: I got the biggest kick out of watching oil pulse into the turbo and listen to the whirr of the turbine slow down after the motor shut off......................yahoooooooooooooooooooo

 

[devilrmk]

Mines very lazy too.

 

[gus bohne]

Sound to me like your rich on the pilots and needle setting Tony.

Jet her down on the pilots, like to 25 or less. I run 15 to 22 pilots in the 1000 doo.

when they are lean they have a flat sound that will tend to almost sond like a leak and change tone when applying throttle at less than half open.

When fat they are just lazy.. I cannot elaborate on gauges at part loads as I have never benn sucessfull with them. eyes, ears and nose works better for me.

get her out and call me with any questions man.
603-401-8897
Gus

 

[gus bohne]

Make damn sure that waste gate is closed full shut too.....

 

[devilrmk]

Make damn sure that waste gate is closed full shut too.....

I will second that one. Mine was hanging open on my last run just enough to scrub off boost and make it not boost till 7500 rpm. I had other issues to worry about so I didn't check the wastegate.

Now its coming on boost just running on the stand at 1/4 throttle and 6500r's.

Headed out for test #2 here in an hour.

 

[00kitty]

fuel issue

i got my sled running today and it starts and runs fine. im running 2psi of fuel pressure on a 1:1 regulator. The issue is that after i ran the sled on the stand i was able to build a couple psi of boost and so i know everything is working. a couple hours later i went to start the sled and there was fuel running out of the pipe. it happened once before and i think it was because i had the choke on to start the sled and the fuel pump on and it bypassed the jets and just filled up the case. but this time i had never used the choke. im thinking i have a needle thats not seating all the way and letting fuel bleed off when the motor is not on. any help on this would be great. or how to prevent this. i did notice once i got it started again it works best if dont have the fuel pump on for a while till its warm, and when i go to shut off the sled, let it run for a while with the fuel pump off to bleed off all the pressure.