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Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

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I do have remote adjusters for power jets never need to open hood again pm me if interested in some.

Rob

Yeah you only have to open the hood to change belts... :D Anybody want to see vid of a sled being towed out by a crew cab GMC?? The best is McGeyver making limiter straps out of some back pack webbing... I have some vid of that too.... :eek:

funny thing is those were some of the best times I have ever had sledding.. :cool:
 
As close as humanly possible is best for clean circuit shut off and turn on.

as far s is one really that much better than the other ??
its all in your hands.. tuning dilligence wil be the difference.

Its like rave delete, without the resulting changes in fuel curve the sled sees a loss in response and mileage. Like leaving the choke on partially..

Those who address it get the best from it.

Gus
 
So has anyone finished a WC 1200 turbo? Anyone want to share part numbers? I am curently soaking up as much info as I can. Any good reads? I know Gus and Dave have been helpful to all but I would like to learn some more before I start asking questions
 
Tony, you can get big float valves for the cutlers from wahl bros.

Once you have your sled running, do another test for reference to fuel pressure and float response to load.

. with engine idleing, slowly increase fuel presssure tilll the idle changes. Now drop pressure back 2 - 3 psi. Make note of the pressure at which the idle dropped.
Now you know the point in bosst build where your pump pressure overcomes the float valve .

One other test to synch carbs to each other fuel response and volume wise is to run the pump with engine OFF, taking note of fuel level thru the powerjet line and vent lines.( best to do with airbox off and carbs in reed boots. ) slowly raise pressure till you see the fuel level move in th epower jet line and or vent lines. Make sure you check each carb closly as if one is ahead of the other you need to adress why.. A lagging float or one the doesn't sink within 1-2 psi of the other is gonna be a issue with unexpected leanouts.

OK Gus,

Got the tank set up for the new pump and return. I did some more testing. The pump(110lt) made 60gph open return with 5/16 inlet and return hose. I put a standard automotive fuel filter in the suction line and dropped it to about 35-40gph. I still made that at pressure (20psi) I dropped the pump voltage to about 10volts to similate a low value rectified sled accessory voltage. I still got over 30gph at 15psi. I want to find a less restrictive filter.

I then did the carb needle and seat test. With 10psi I let it run through the float bowl for six minutes to get a long term average. There was over 16 gph out of one carb. While I was at it I checked the pressure where the floats were overpowered. It was hard to tell, but I think it was something around 14-15 psi, which surprise me. I think this whole exercise confirmed that this new pump is going to work out. The 1.8 needle/seats appear to be able to flow enough fuel for about 180+ horsepower each carb(I think).

One of the coolest things is that the pump only draws 3.5 amps at 20+psi.

Gus with your help, I have been growing more confident with this project at each step. Thanks again for your advise!:light:
 
boost reference line

Gus on the boost reference from the pipe to the fuel regulator you say to use #4 line. My question is because the line goes to the pipe which type of line should one use, I was concerned about heat if I go with soft hoses. Can you be more specific on which material of hose to use and #4 line what size is the I.D of the hose?

Thanks Mike
 
russells/earls/Jegs..etc
N20 feed line.
#4 is the size
it is stainless outer braid over teflon lining.
there is no heat issue .
Tony ,, you rock man. my pleasure.

Gus
 
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Ya, it is too bad that great resources like Gus are being chased away so that money can be skimmed.

Ill see ya on the other web pages Gus. Thanks for all the help!

Jake
 
Hey guys I have been gethering ideas for turboing my 830 rev. What would be a good turbo(automotive?) to install. Have a friend with a saab turbo don't know model. Diesel tech by trade and have ability to tune clutch and carbs and fabricate what is needed. Putting together ideas and parts for next years build. Thanks for the info so far just haven't seen much in the models/# of the turbos. Any particular unit working better than the others for this style application?
 
Lectrons are to leaky , they spew fuel from every seem when pressurized.
I would like to use them but its not worth it monitarily.

the other issue with them under pressure is needle outlet wear. the sharp flat on the needle wears into the carb body and it goes, rich to lean as you wear it more and more.

turbo sizing for that rev ,, 2860/2871 . aero 53 biggest they have. 66 is better.
mitsu car turbos are barley adequate for 220 hp.
 
That seems really crazy. A turbo for 400+ hp when it makes approx 200-220?? I have been doing diesel performance for 10 + years and never figured a turbo for the sled would need that much flow.. need to CRAM the brain with sled turbo info. Its in the blood and on the mind.... Thanks for the heads up...
 
Lectrons are to leaky , they spew fuel from every seem when pressurized.
I would like to use them but its not worth it monitarily.

the other issue with them under pressure is needle outlet wear. the sharp flat on the needle wears into the carb body and it goes, rich to lean as you wear it more and more.

turbo sizing for that rev ,, 2860/2871 . aero 53 biggest they have. 66 is better.
mitsu car turbos are barley adequate for 220 hp.

Interesting, would they work in an air box so they are under pressure from the outside as well? The needle thing scares me though, I'm thinking going rich to lean as they wear is probably not optimal on a turbo setup lol. Thanks for the info, Craig
 
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