BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)
- Thread starter TRS
- Start date
Norway/Daltech... I'll help you out... send me a PM.
.
.
Aaaaaw! You guys are just the sweetest, arent you?
j/k
Daltech is pretty much hooked up with Loudhandle for 4 kits, asking as we speak if it's ok to make that 5. And i just pm'd ottawaair asking some details about his parts. And now Eric joins the frey here just to be sure.
We'll both be squared away in no time, thanks to our brothers in arms here on SW.
Unless something is amiss I'll help ottawaair get rid of his excess first.
Thanks all!
I believe both TRS and I have made them, I ask $10 apiece to cover my time materials and priority postage. PM me if you are interested.
Loudhandle did get me set up with 5 kits as needed. Big thanks to him doing this, and to all you other guys that offered your help. It is much appreciated.
Daltech
Aaaaaw! You guys are just the sweetest, arent you?
j/k
Daltech is pretty much hooked up with Loudhandle for 4 kits, asking as we speak if it's ok to make that 5. And i just pm'd ottawaair asking some details about his parts. And now Eric joins the frey here just to be sure.
We'll both be squared away in no time, thanks to our brothers in arms here on SW.
Unless something is amiss I'll help ottawaair get rid of his excess first.
Thanks all!
Daltech
And now a swede pm'd me and asked to join, so I'll try and get 2 kits. Both the 5th from LH through Daltech and help ottawaair get rid of his parts.
RS
Just a small update; ottawaair is now one $28 kit poorer, to the benefit of Scandinavia. Will be re-directed from me to the guy in Sweden so he can get his machine up to par.
I will be using the kit from Daltech and all will be happy!
Now... LET IT SNOW!!!!
New install
Just did an install on my Flat land Assault 144 with a front heat exchanger.
Did the install the same way I did the Pro RMK.
Engine Temp. went from 129-133 to 111-113 degrees
Not sure of any performance increases yet but still doing engine break-in .
Just Happy the engine now runs a little cooler :]
Edit. I ment the front track heat exchanger not the the front rad in the PRO X style sleds. ( 121- 136" Flat land sleds
Just did an install on my Flat land Assault 144 with a front heat exchanger.
Did the install the same way I did the Pro RMK.
Engine Temp. went from 129-133 to 111-113 degrees
Not sure of any performance increases yet but still doing engine break-in .
Just Happy the engine now runs a little cooler :]
Edit. I ment the front track heat exchanger not the the front rad in the PRO X style sleds. ( 121- 136" Flat land sleds
Last edited:
600 results
What were the results on the 600 sled. I assume the same but thought I'd ask. Also anyone done this and had issues with warranty at the dealer. I have a 6 and an 8 that I'm considering doing this to as long as it will not null and void the warranty.
Thanks
What were the results on the 600 sled. I assume the same but thought I'd ask. Also anyone done this and had issues with warranty at the dealer. I have a 6 and an 8 that I'm considering doing this to as long as it will not null and void the warranty.
Thanks
Thanks TRS great thread. I did the upgrade on my 13 Turbo Pro works great.
Updated Parts List
Thought I would repost the part numbers with the optional substitutions / updates.
BRP
1- #509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- #509000372 3/4" x 1" barbed tee
Napa
4- #42934 Power Grip
2- #42925 Power Grip
1- #660-1696 5/8" bypass cap
1- #8205 1" formed hose
1- #7378 3/4" formed hose
Polaris
1- #7080533 CT clamp (Or 1- #42922 NAPA Power Grip)
Other Parts to machine or source
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick
1/2" PEX test plugs have been found to fit well in the extra unused 5/8" bypass port in the BRP thermostat housing, for a double positive block. The following part numbers have been identified as options:
***Note only one plug is needed per kit***
Viega part number 43723 (Acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams, this plug seems to be the most commonly available in my expirence)
Zurn part number QXP3XP (Acetal material)
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)
Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)
Thought I would repost the part numbers with the optional substitutions / updates.
BRP
1- #509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- #509000372 3/4" x 1" barbed tee
Napa
4- #42934 Power Grip
2- #42925 Power Grip
1- #660-1696 5/8" bypass cap
1- #8205 1" formed hose
1- #7378 3/4" formed hose
Polaris
1- #7080533 CT clamp (Or 1- #42922 NAPA Power Grip)
Other Parts to machine or source
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick
1/2" PEX test plugs have been found to fit well in the extra unused 5/8" bypass port in the BRP thermostat housing, for a double positive block. The following part numbers have been identified as options:
***Note only one plug is needed per kit***
Viega part number 43723 (Acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams, this plug seems to be the most commonly available in my expirence)
Zurn part number QXP3XP (Acetal material)
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)
Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)
Annoyed...
So, this did not turn out as I hoped...
Set out to make my own sled better and decided I could help ottawaair getting rid of his kit at the same time. Then Hellsledder pm's me and ask if I there is any chance I can grab one extra kit? "Sure, I'll just have Daltech up his number".
Done. Now I get (and pay for) 2 kits. No biggie, not that much cash to front for someone. BUT, Hellsledder never replied once I had the first kit here and ottawaairs kit had 1-3/4" powerclamps!!
To make things half right I sell the best kit with plug, shim and correct clamps to another guy in Norway and make the last kit work with normal hoseclamps and homemade plug + shim.
Once again I go out of my way to help fellow sledders, and for my efforts????
IDIOT! Note to self: DON'T HELP PEOPLE!
Sorry, rant over.
BTW; LoudHandles kit is SOLLID, has all the (correct) things you need and a good price. Don't know price from Rogers Sportscentre, but I do know they have to charge a sales tax that most other states don't.
Just a small update; ottawaair is now one $28 kit poorer, to the benefit of Scandinavia. Will be re-directed from me to the guy in Sweden so he can get his machine up to par.
I will be using the kit from Daltech and all will be happy!
Now... LET IT SNOW!!!!
So, this did not turn out as I hoped...
Set out to make my own sled better and decided I could help ottawaair getting rid of his kit at the same time. Then Hellsledder pm's me and ask if I there is any chance I can grab one extra kit? "Sure, I'll just have Daltech up his number".
Done. Now I get (and pay for) 2 kits. No biggie, not that much cash to front for someone. BUT, Hellsledder never replied once I had the first kit here and ottawaairs kit had 1-3/4" powerclamps!!
To make things half right I sell the best kit with plug, shim and correct clamps to another guy in Norway and make the last kit work with normal hoseclamps and homemade plug + shim.
Once again I go out of my way to help fellow sledders, and for my efforts????
IDIOT! Note to self: DON'T HELP PEOPLE!Sorry, rant over.
BTW; LoudHandles kit is SOLLID, has all the (correct) things you need and a good price. Don't know price from Rogers Sportscentre, but I do know they have to charge a sales tax that most other states don't.
Last edited:
Hey buddy! Sorry if I came on like it was not!!
They were good to deal with, no problems anywhere and my parts came in a timely manner at quoted price. I would deal with them again on that basis.
To others:
I have not bought a kit from them, but other parts not related to this kit. Got a real good response from TRS here on another matter, instantly liked the man and he shared freely his experience and advice. He sent me to Rogers and the good wibes kind of just followed. They did nothing to change my impression and seems like real good folks.
There, feels better to leave of in this tune!
J
jrk
New member
BRP thermo bypass unit in RUSH/Switchback?
The question has been asked but no one answered it because the RMK and Switchback Assault don't use the front nose radiator.
I am intending on installing it into my 2012 Polaris Rush/Switchback - 136 x1.75" track. I started having a heat issue since the installation of the RKT head/piston kit. Prior to the kit the sled ran 127-128 in good snow. Since the kit was installed, the sled now runs in the 136* range in good snow. Since this has happened, I've been chasing a losing RPM issue on top end that no helix or secondary spring change was able to fix.
The sled will hit 8200 and as you build speed and heat, the RPM starts to drop; 8100……8000….7900.
Everything on the sled checks out: alignment, motor mounts, ex valves, etc. This is not a maintenance thing…..this started to happen after the kit was installed. None of these issues were present before the install of the kit.
From what I understand, the RKT head flows more and potentially removes more heat from the engine…..problem is the thermostat does not flow enough to dissipate the heat down to the coolers fast enough to remove the heat out of the head.
The hypothesis is because of this harbored heat, the ECU thinks the engine is running hot (or is about to) and starts to go into “self-preservation” mode by dumping fuel and removing timing.
This has not been verified by Polaris or Kelsey , but the real world results of what I’m finding seem to support it.
In an effort to address my climbing temperature/poor performance issues, I intend on implementing this thermo bypass unit into my 2012 800 switchback….but the plumbing may be challenging and different from the RMK/Assault setup.
Attached is a few pictures and description of what my intentions are. Any input is greatly appreciated.
The usage of the ‘T’ fitting in the rush/switchback setup is unnecessary and the bypass hose that formerly went to the head, will now be going to the front port of the BRP thermostat housing.
Someone please correct me if I’m on the wrong track and if this helps someone else attempting to do the same thing…..all the better.
Does the BRP thermostat allow some bypass function? That is, when the thermostat opens fully, does it completely shut off the bypass circuit, or will there be a minute amount of flow present flowing through the front nose rad?
The question has been asked but no one answered it because the RMK and Switchback Assault don't use the front nose radiator.
I am intending on installing it into my 2012 Polaris Rush/Switchback - 136 x1.75" track. I started having a heat issue since the installation of the RKT head/piston kit. Prior to the kit the sled ran 127-128 in good snow. Since the kit was installed, the sled now runs in the 136* range in good snow. Since this has happened, I've been chasing a losing RPM issue on top end that no helix or secondary spring change was able to fix.
The sled will hit 8200 and as you build speed and heat, the RPM starts to drop; 8100……8000….7900.
Everything on the sled checks out: alignment, motor mounts, ex valves, etc. This is not a maintenance thing…..this started to happen after the kit was installed. None of these issues were present before the install of the kit.
From what I understand, the RKT head flows more and potentially removes more heat from the engine…..problem is the thermostat does not flow enough to dissipate the heat down to the coolers fast enough to remove the heat out of the head.
The hypothesis is because of this harbored heat, the ECU thinks the engine is running hot (or is about to) and starts to go into “self-preservation” mode by dumping fuel and removing timing.
This has not been verified by Polaris or Kelsey , but the real world results of what I’m finding seem to support it.
In an effort to address my climbing temperature/poor performance issues, I intend on implementing this thermo bypass unit into my 2012 800 switchback….but the plumbing may be challenging and different from the RMK/Assault setup.
Attached is a few pictures and description of what my intentions are. Any input is greatly appreciated.
The usage of the ‘T’ fitting in the rush/switchback setup is unnecessary and the bypass hose that formerly went to the head, will now be going to the front port of the BRP thermostat housing.
Someone please correct me if I’m on the wrong track and if this helps someone else attempting to do the same thing…..all the better.
Does the BRP thermostat allow some bypass function? That is, when the thermostat opens fully, does it completely shut off the bypass circuit, or will there be a minute amount of flow present flowing through the front nose rad?
Similar threads
